westonsecurity 6 Posted August 3, 2009 Report Share Posted August 3, 2009 Just did a 70k maint. on my 2006 F-150. Replaced hoses, belts, PCV , plugs, trans, front & rear diffs fluids. Cleaned KN air filter, Changed oil & filter, anti freeze. I had issues getting the plugs out. Broke 3 and needed to buy a tool to get them out. Now, under load A/C on, or between 40 & 50 mph the truck stutters. It's not throwing out any codes yet. I'm thinking Coil over plug wire, but that's just an educated guess. Anybody have any ideas? Please keep this to problem solving and not the " Duck on the pond" answer, YOU BOUGHT A FORD, THAT'S WHAT THE PROBLEM IS. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bayoupiper 738 Posted August 4, 2009 Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 Could be electrical. Did the new plugs go in easy? Ford did have an issue with some of the aluminum heads where the plugs were stripping the threads and blowing out of the motor. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bigcec1 72 Posted August 4, 2009 Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 Did you change the boots for the Coils every time we change them we sell the boots with the service 9 out of 10 you wind up cutting a small hole in one and it arks on the valve cover or something inside there also you may wana check make shure all the plugs are on the coils I know they can be a pain in the ars and some times you think you put it on but you didnt. and the problem you are having is just when it is under a load ? with ac on or if you hammer down on it when ever it shutters ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
westonsecurity 6 Posted August 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 I didn't change the boots. Are they a seperate part, meaning just the rubber part, or is it part of the entire coil module? Thay all seem to be installed properly,but anything could of happened. The problem is present when the A/C is on @ idle, and when I accelerate. When I ease up it seems to smooth out, but I think I'm just wishing that last part. Will, The plugs went in fine, after the old ones came out. Would the PCV cause this issue? I wouldn't think so, but it was a PIA to get to @ the rear of the motor and install it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bigcec1 72 Posted August 4, 2009 Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 Well when you pull the coils out the rubber boot comes off and you may have pulled a vac hose off accidently back there that may be for the ac door to open close so it might be why its doing it when the ac is on i would go and look and see if you have any vac hoses off accidently Quote Link to post Share on other sites
westonsecurity 6 Posted August 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 Thx, I'll check it tomorrow. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bvamp 604 Posted August 4, 2009 Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 stupid question, but with vehicles and guns, none are actually stupid Ive learned.... are you sure the plugs are correct replacements? also, someone correct me if im wrong, but isnt a stuck plug a sign of crud on the exposed end, or a hot cylinder? I know of several 2007 models that people got a surprising gas mileage out of on v8's that the factory bought back when they brought it into the dealerships to inquire about the 60-70mpg they were getting....., and the factory and dealership redid the loans for the buyers at a cut rate with a nice cash back thing on the new trucks they replaced them with. 2006 is only the year before.....it was happening with the fords, as I recall, and dodges as well right around that time. maybe you have one of those "exactly that way" motors/components (or had) that didnt quite come out to spec or to the "unknown positive issue" that the year may have had? Im not a gear head, just tossing that out there, maybe it will help the OP. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bigcec1 72 Posted August 4, 2009 Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 stupid question, but with vehicles and guns, none are actually stupid Ive learned.... are you sure the plugs are correct replacements? also, someone correct me if im wrong, but isnt a stuck plug a sign of crud on the exposed end, or a hot cylinder? I know of several 2007 models that people got a surprising gas mileage out of on v8's that the factory bought back when they brought it into the dealerships to inquire about the 60-70mpg they were getting....., and the factory and dealership redid the loans for the buyers at a cut rate with a nice cash back thing on the new trucks they replaced them with. 2006 is only the year before.....it was happening with the fords, as I recall, and dodges as well right around that time. maybe you have one of those "exactly that way" motors/components (or had) that didnt quite come out to spec or to the "unknown positive issue" that the year may have had? Im not a gear head, just tossing that out there, maybe it will help the OP. Well on the tritons they are Natorios for stuck plugs I have a nice Plug extractor set for the ford v8,s could have got some nice russian mags instead but o well ive tred pulling a set of plugs on a New motor with only 7k with4 plugs broken off inside from trying to get em out had to use the extractor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
westonsecurity 6 Posted August 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 Forgot to mention, all parts were bought from the Ford dealer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rd99fxdl 17 Posted August 4, 2009 Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 It does sound like a vaccum line is off. How is it if you hammer down? Does it lack power at all or no? If so,then you have a COP off. Rough idle could be from either. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
elvis christ 451 Posted August 4, 2009 Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 I was going to suggest checking the voltage on your Throttle Position Sensor. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
etpiejr 4 Posted August 4, 2009 Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 unfortunately sometimes when you remove a coil it will act up like this for some odd reason. the newer fords are also famous for not throwing a misfire code very easily. before you pull your hair out, you should take it to a shop that is equipped with a scan tool that has a misfire counter. it will pinpoint which cylinder the problem is in and save you alot of time. almost any scanner capable of mode 6 tests can read the counter. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bigcec1 72 Posted August 4, 2009 Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 Or go buy you a nice snapon modis wait that might be more than the truck hehe j/k but I know that scan tool can watch individual cylnders and can see if the coil is even fireing but check make shure nothing is unpluged first good luck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
westonsecurity 6 Posted August 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2009 Finally got a code, misfire on cyl 3 & 7. I pretty sure it's the boot/wire. Ordered them today should be GTG tomorrow. Thanks to all for the help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Unholy 0 Posted August 5, 2009 Report Share Posted August 5, 2009 May want to pull those plugs and make sure you didn't hose the gap up when installing the plugs before you try and replace the wires/boots. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paulyski 2,227 Posted August 5, 2009 Report Share Posted August 5, 2009 stupid question, but with vehicles and guns, none are actually stupid Ive learned.... are you sure the plugs are correct replacements? also, someone correct me if im wrong, but isnt a stuck plug a sign of crud on the exposed end, or a hot cylinder? I know of several 2007 models that people got a surprising gas mileage out of on v8's that the factory bought back when they brought it into the dealerships to inquire about the 60-70mpg they were getting....., and the factory and dealership redid the loans for the buyers at a cut rate with a nice cash back thing on the new trucks they replaced them with. 2006 is only the year before.....it was happening with the fords, as I recall, and dodges as well right around that time. maybe you have one of those "exactly that way" motors/components (or had) that didnt quite come out to spec or to the "unknown positive issue" that the year may have had? Im not a gear head, just tossing that out there, maybe it will help the OP. Stuck Plugs can also often be caused by not using anti-seize compound when installing steel plugs in aluminium heads. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
westonsecurity 6 Posted August 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2009 I want to thank everybody again for all the help. Anti seize was definetly used, and the new boots/spring wire did the trick. Truck runs great w/o any codes. Thanks for the tip on the scanner, It's a cheap unit, but it told me what I needed to know. Thanks again....... Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bigcec1 72 Posted August 6, 2009 Report Share Posted August 6, 2009 Well glad to know ya got it under controle there with them big Ole Epensive boots hehe Quote Link to post Share on other sites
westonsecurity 6 Posted August 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2009 Not to bad a price, NAPA @ $ 11.00 each. I had a total of $ 551.00 in parts, and alot of sweat equity. Next time I'll go wiith the Champion one piece plug instead of the Motorcraft 2 piece design. Best tool I bought was the Chilton manual , well worth the money along with the plug extraction tool, which wasn't added into the final total. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bigcec1 72 Posted August 6, 2009 Report Share Posted August 6, 2009 Hehe yeah they not real expensive its pretty easy to work on ohh if you let the air out of the front tires its realy easy to work on. but this is probly the best tool in my tool box Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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