Gun Fixer Gas Plug

[TO THE FLOOR IN A 63 121]

I think I understand the principles behind the OEM gas plug and what the intital setting is and how to adjust it....I can't say the same for the gun fixer plug with its four settings...

[Racer 27 37]

I think I understand the principles behind the OEM gas plug and what the intital setting is and how to adjust it....I can't say the same for the gun fixer plug with its four settings...

 

The bigger the number the more gas that is let though to push the bolt back. Some guns let to much gas though and it pushes the bolt back into the rear tri (I can't think of the word right now) causing damage. The four different settings help to regulate the amount of gas better.

Edited August 18, 2009 by Racer 27

[shades_of_grey 1,092]

I think I understand the principles behind the OEM gas plug and what the intital setting is and how to adjust it....I can't say the same for the gun fixer plug with its four settings...

 

The bigger the number the more gas that is let though to push the bolt back. Some guns let to much gas though and it pushes the bolt back into the rear tri (I can't think of the word right now) causing damage. The four different settings help to regulate the amount of gas better.

 

The word you're looking for is trunnion. If a gun is over-gassed, the bolt carrier will beat the shit out of the rear trunnion and shorten the life of the weapon.

 

To the OP, if you have a Gunfixr's Gas Plug, it comes with instructions which are actually quite simple. Basically, as Racer said, the higher the setting the more gas is allowed into the system. With 4 settings, this part allows finer control of the gas system, and of course, it is hand-adjustable, unlike the OEM part.

 

Imo, the ~$35 a Gunfixr's Gas Plug costs is a pittance for the improvement in control you gain by using one. It was the first aftermarket part I bought for my S-12 and it's the part that still makes the most difference in its operation. I recommend this part to everyone who owns a S-12. It is significantly better than the OEM part it replaces in every way.

[TO THE FLOOR IN A 63 121]

Thanks. I ordered the Gun Fixer plug last week so I expect it shortly. I guess what I do understand is with the OEM plug shoot everything on setting 1...slugs, buck, high brass etc. Use setting 2 when you buy low brass or light loads and it won't cycle on 1. That's about the depth of my knowledge...I was kind of hoping for something equally as stupid simple for the four settings on the gun fixer plug and a initial setting??????

 

Sorry to be so thick...I just don't get it.

Edited August 18, 2009 by TO THE FLOOR IN A 63

[shades_of_grey 1,092]

Thanks. I ordered the Gun Fixer plug last week so I expect it shortly. I guess what I do understand is with the OEM plug shoot everything on setting 1...slugs, buck, high brass etc. Use setting 2 when you buy low brass or light loads and it won't cycle on 1. That's about the depth of my knowledge...I was kind of hoping for something equally as stupid simple for the four settings on the gun fixer plug and a initial setting??????

 

Don't worry, man. Just read the very simple instructions that will come with your new Gunfixr plug and it will all become clear. It's not a complicated or difficult part to use, believe me. Assuming your gun's not fucked up: expect to use setting 2 for low-brass birdshot like Federal 7 1/2, and setting -1/+1 for high-brass buck/slugs etc. Setting 3 is for later in a range session.. when there's a lot of fouling in your gas system.

 

You will love the vast improvement in performance/control the Gunfixr plug offers over the OEM part!!!

[TO THE FLOOR IN A 63 121]

Instructions...now that's a new one. LOL

[BpS12 512]

Thanks. I ordered the Gun Fixer plug last week so I expect it shortly. I guess what I do understand is with the OEM plug shoot everything on setting 1...slugs, buck, high brass etc. Use setting 2 when you buy low brass or light loads and it won't cycle on 1. That's about the depth of my knowledge...I was kind of hoping for something equally as stupid simple for the four settings on the gun fixer plug and a initial setting??????

 

Sorry to be so thick...I just don't get it.

 

 

Good thread, I just ordered mine last week as well along with 2 Surefire 10rnd mags.

 

LRoDV,

Mikel

[Spartacus 1,619]

If the threads are clean, it threads in very easily.

 

It tends to be a bit harder to turn it after a few hundred rounds and you may need a coin to turn it.

Then you clean up the gas block threads with your normal gun cleaning and the plug threads easily again.

 

That has been my experience.

[Racer 27 37]

If the threads are clean, it threads in very easily.

 

It tends to be a bit harder to turn it after a few hundred rounds and you may need a coin to turn it.

Then you clean up the gas block threads with your normal gun cleaning and the plug threads easily again.

 

That has been my experience.

 

On my gun I had to clean the threads and use lub to get it to thread in all the way. Lube turn in, back out, turn in, back out, turn in... It took a little for it to loosen it up enough to turn by hand. My thread asking how

 

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=41801&hl=

[TO THE FLOOR IN A 63 121]

If the threads are clean, it threads in very easily.

 

It tends to be a bit harder to turn it after a few hundred rounds and you may need a coin to turn it.

Then you clean up the gas block threads with your normal gun cleaning and the plug threads easily again.

 

That has been my experience.

 

On my gun I had to clean the threads and use lub to get it to thread in all the way. Lube turn in, back out, turn in, back out, turn in... It took a little for it to loosen it up enough to turn by hand. My thread asking how

 

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=41801&hl=

 

Thanks for the heads up Racer 27. One of my other hobbies revolves around my 1964 Mini Cooper. You never get instructions with parts. Nothing. Ever. If we don't now...well so be it. I guess we can use this forum for that???

 

and have to modify new parts for the mini...yep.

Edited August 19, 2009 by TO THE FLOOR IN A 63

[TO THE FLOOR IN A 63 121]

Well the Gun Fixer plug and KA Tappet arrived today...

 

No problem installing the gun fixer plug...it just screwed right in. Probably because I don't have a lot of carbon buildup in my gun. ...yet

 

Now could someone please tell me what CLP is??? or is it generic for greese??

 

...and in all honesty I did not read the instructions...they dropped the ball during shipping and forgot to include them...but they should be faxed to me later. Thanks post-apocalyptic, if you hadn't said something about instructions I would never have known they were missing.

Edited August 19, 2009 by TO THE FLOOR IN A 63

[ARCANGEL 1]

Well the Gun Fixer plug and KA Tappet arrived today...

 

No problem installing the gun fixer plug...it just screwed right in. Probably because I don't have a lot of carbon buildup in my gun. ...yet

 

Now could someone please tell me what CLP is??? or is it generic for greese??

 

...and in all honesty I did not read the instructions...they dropped the ball during shipping and forgot to include them...but they should be faxed to me later. Thanks post-apocalyptic, if you hadn't said something about instructions I would never have known they were missing.

 

 

CLP lubricant info:

 

http://www.break-free.com/?location=/products/index.asp

[BronCobraJet 80]

One quick note, if you are only going to be shooting a small amount of ammo at a time (I'd say 50 rds or less) then CLP -Cleaner, Lubricant, Protector will probably be fine. Make sure you take some extra with you if your gun seems to slow down or get dry so you can relube. I prefer to save up huge amounts of ammo to make it worth my time to shoot, and I clean after every shooting session - no matter what. NEVER LET THE SUN SET ON A DIRTY WEAPON was what I was always taught. The first time I shot, just to kind of break it in and get a fell, was a 100 rd "value pack" of Federal, and about 90 rds of Winchester and Wolf 00 Buck. The 2nd go around was 160 rds of Federal, Winchester and Remington and Winchester and Wolf 00 Buck to test out the conversion and new KA gas tappet, etc. The 3rd time out (last weekend) was 345 rds of Federal, Winchester and Remington value and Winchester and Wolf 00 Buck in 2 3/4 inch loads and a few Winchester 3" 00 Buck. The first two times I cleaned the gun, I had cycled by hand repeately to get a feel and dry break it in. I used Remington with Teflon spray for the lube. It kept running dry at the range, and I had to keep spraying more in as the shooting went on. This last time I went, I used Berkely rod and reel grease (WalMart) to lube the rails, bolt extension (inside bolt carrier) and all other contact points that I could see. I didn't apply it thick, but there was what you might call an "excess". It preformed pretty much flawlessly and needed no relubing, even after all those rounds. High Temp Wheel Bearing Grease may do the same. Also, you want to use an anti-sieze compound on your gas plug threads. I also spray silicone on the puck and in the tube after I clean it. Others may not agree with lubing the gas tube and puck, but it seems to make cleanup much easier. One last thing AND VERY IMPORTANT!!! When you dis-assemmble, do not force the puck out of the gas tube, and make sure it is not cocked at an angle. Spray lots of gun cleaner on it and rotate the gun while you do it. Then let it sit an hour. THEN, gently tap it out from the rear with a wooden dowel. Standing the gun on end while you tap may help keep it even. Take your time and DO NOT FORCE it and screw up your threads. You may have to go back and forth a couple of times. Clean the threads, on the gun and on the plug with a toothbrush or brass brush, and USE ANTI-SIEZE. There are a few posts about that here. Pick your ports clean (don't forget about the one on the side under your handguard). The 3" 00 Buck will kick your shoulder hard, just like the original MonteCarlo stock. lol. Good Luck.

[Gunfixr 76]

I am looking at a slight change in the plug that should help with the fouling problem.

I have a couple local competitive shooters who shoot a LOT, and I'm going to modify theirs accordingly. Once this is figured out, it will be implemented to all plugs made.

[TO THE FLOOR IN A 63 121]

One quick note, if you are only going to be shooting a small amount of ammo at a time (I'd say 50 rds or less) then CLP -Cleaner, Lubricant, Protector will probably be fine. Make sure you take some extra with you if your gun seems to slow down or get dry so you can relube. I prefer to save up huge amounts of ammo to make it worth my time to shoot, and I clean after every shooting session - no matter what. NEVER LET THE SUN SET ON A DIRTY WEAPON was what I was always taught. The first time I shot, just to kind of break it in and get a fell, was a 100 rd "value pack" of Federal, and about 90 rds of Winchester and Wolf 00 Buck. The 2nd go around was 160 rds of Federal, Winchester and Remington and Winchester and Wolf 00 Buck to test out the conversion and new KA gas tappet, etc. The 3rd time out (last weekend) was 345 rds of Federal, Winchester and Remington value and Winchester and Wolf 00 Buck in 2 3/4 inch loads and a few Winchester 3" 00 Buck. The first two times I cleaned the gun, I had cycled by hand repeately to get a feel and dry break it in. I used Remington with Teflon spray for the lube. It kept running dry at the range, and I had to keep spraying more in as the shooting went on. This last time I went, I used Berkely rod and reel grease (WalMart) to lube the rails, bolt extension (inside bolt carrier) and all other contact points that I could see. I didn't apply it thick, but there was what you might call an "excess". It preformed pretty much flawlessly and needed no relubing, even after all those rounds. High Temp Wheel Bearing Grease may do the same. Also, you want to use an anti-sieze compound on your gas plug threads. I also spray silicone on the puck and in the tube after I clean it. Others may not agree with lubing the gas tube and puck, but it seems to make cleanup much easier. One last thing AND VERY IMPORTANT!!! When you dis-assemmble, do not force the puck out of the gas tube, and make sure it is not cocked at an angle. Spray lots of gun cleaner on it and rotate the gun while you do it. Then let it sit an hour. THEN, gently tap it out from the rear with a wooden dowel. Standing the gun on end while you tap may help keep it even. Take your time and DO NOT FORCE it and screw up your threads. You may have to go back and forth a couple of times. Clean the threads, on the gun and on the plug with a toothbrush or brass brush, and USE ANTI-SIEZE. There are a few posts about that here. Pick your ports clean (don't forget about the one on the side under your handguard). The 3" 00 Buck will kick your shoulder hard, just like the original MonteCarlo stock. lol. Good Luck.

 

Thanks

[Spartacus 1,619]

I am looking at a slight change in the plug that should help with the fouling problem.

I have a couple local competitive shooters who shoot a LOT, and I'm going to modify theirs accordingly. Once this is figured out, it will be implemented to all plugs made.

 

 

Are you adding a channel for an O-ring?