Frankyoz 15 Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 Has anyone used the aerosol cans of these products that Brownells sells. Curious about how far a can will last and the quality afterwards, thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SJgunguy 5 Posted December 23, 2009 Report Share Posted December 23, 2009 I haven't used Gun Kote, no way to bake it without some serious shit to deal with. Alumahyde2 is good shit. You should be able to get 2-3 rifles with one can. Make sure you buy extra nozzles and keep the can warm so it flows better. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frankyoz 15 Posted December 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2009 i read on the forum that the Alum-hyde can get a bit sticky when heated up under firing? Does this occur after it has been fully cured? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SJgunguy 5 Posted December 23, 2009 Report Share Posted December 23, 2009 i read on the forum that the Alum-hyde can get a bit sticky when heated up under firing? Does this occur after it has been fully cured? Nope it's GTG when properly cured. Follow the directions. What's good is you don't need to blast and park, just sand everything down and spray the Alumahyde 2 per the directions. One of my AK builds I did sand and I used K phose before I applied the alumahyde2, thats a good solid finish. It does go on very thick, so don't get too happy on the inside of the receiver, I would tape off the rails and trunnion. I use Metal cote, it's a clear single coat epoxy on the inside. Brownels carries that too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frankyoz 15 Posted December 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2009 Awesome thanks for the advice and info I was thinking of using a teflon spray for the inside. I have heard good things about it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patriot 7,197 Posted December 24, 2009 Report Share Posted December 24, 2009 Alumahyde 2 works great. I had my AMD65 HOT and it's good stuff. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thedave8 0 Posted December 24, 2009 Report Share Posted December 24, 2009 yup Alumihyde II on at least 10 of my builds.......including Browning 1919.......only one drawback.....must use patience.....full cure takes a good couple weeks.....i found out the hard way....was dry to the touch so i said , hell, i'll put it together.....the selector on my ak gouged it a bit...but once fully cured its rock solid....good stuff!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Krom 36 Posted December 26, 2009 Report Share Posted December 26, 2009 (edited) I use Alumahyde2, works great. If you use on the barrel and dump a few mags it will bubble a little through, I'm pretty statified with it though. Edited December 26, 2009 by Krom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
22_Shooter 1,560 Posted December 26, 2009 Report Share Posted December 26, 2009 This thread needs pictures of some Aluma-Hyde II refinish jobs! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frankyoz 15 Posted December 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2009 I agree thats phase 2 of my restoration but it will give me some ideas and what to expect Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Old18C 4 Posted August 3, 2010 Report Share Posted August 3, 2010 Here is my 1st using Aluma-Hyde II done while I was in the High Desert turned out pretty good. Wish I had read more before I had started. I have used the firearm a bit harshly to include washing it off with a water hose after a couple of days on an ATV back in the wetter mountains in the East. Listen to thedave8. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Krom 36 Posted August 4, 2010 Report Share Posted August 4, 2010 This thread needs pictures of some Aluma-Hyde II refinish jobs! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Klassy Kalashnikov 1,393 Posted August 4, 2010 Report Share Posted August 4, 2010 If you go with Aluma Hyde II make sure you DEGREASE well. And when you thought you've degreased the gun, degrease some more! I had oil hiding underneath the gas block and FSB, as well as between trunion and receiver, inside the nub of the safety, etc. and during curing it seeped out and made the thing have "cow spots" Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sjgusmc21 850 Posted August 5, 2010 Report Share Posted August 5, 2010 AHII and Gun Kote both work great. AHII works very, very well and is easy to spray. Gun Kote works best on a parked surface. That is what I have used it on and it is tough as nails. AHII worked on my Saiga and looks better then the original paint (not saying much there I guess). Just as Klassey said...degrease, degrease, and degrease again once you think it is done. That is the key. To me, Gun Kote was just as easy as AHII. I baked AHII at 185 for 1.5 hours and it came out dry enough to work with. It will harden even further. DO NOT use any lubricant on it until you are sure it is FULLY cured (I wait a week). Gun Kote has to sit for 30 minutes after applied, then baked at 300 degrees for 1 hour. After that, do want you want with it. Teflon Moly is good as well....but stinks like hell. Really was caught off guard by this and caught total hell from Mrs for it. When I refinished my AR lower, had to send it to my GS buddy to bead blast it. 3 days sitting in my witches brew of different paint removers didn't phase it a bit! Good luck and remember: if you think it is degreased enough....then do it again! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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