Jump to content

So I was shooting my S308 today...


Recommended Posts

I converted my 308 using a 2-stage Arsenal trigger and disconnector, but keeping the stock hammer (since it had the correct geometry). I remember noticing that I had problems trying to shove the bolt carrier back into the closed position when reassembling, so I took a hammer to it...could cycle it fine by hand. When I shot it today, the trigger locks back and I have to gently push it with my finger from the trigger rear to follow up with another shot. Has anyone converted using the stock hammer and encountered the same kind of problem? Do you think a G2 trigger would solve my problem?

Link to post
Share on other sites

It was just stubborn to slide the carrier into place when reassembling, so a few gentle raps with a rubber mallet (not hammer) against the back of the charging handle did the trick. I mean, it cycles fine except for the trigger needing a nudge forward to reset following each shot. Kind of annoying.

Link to post
Share on other sites

It can be a little tricky to get the bolt carrier back in after field stripping. I usually have to push down on the hammer a little while pushing down and forward on the bolt carrier. There should be no need to hammer on it though. As for the trigger reset issue, the standard thing to check on is whether the mainspring legs are properly in place.

 

Also, I recommend doing a full safety check on the gun. The Saiga .308s can have some special safety issues after conversion (see the stickied thread toward the top of the .308 section). I strongly recommend the .308-specific FCG from Dinzag. It resolves ALL the safety issues and works great.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I had this happen with my Saiga12, I think.

 

Take the cover off, and hand cycle it. Look at the disconnector. Is the disconnector not totally letting go of the hammer, after you release the trigger. I'm trying to figure out the best way to explain what I'm saying.

 

So you pull the trigger, hammer goes forward, when you release the trigger, does the disconnector release all the way?

Link to post
Share on other sites

that sounds like a trigger group problem. Hitting it with a hammer while not good, shouldn't do too much harm. The reason it won't go back in is important too the bolt needs spaced to the front of the carrier and both need to sit on the receiver just right, then with the trigger cocked it should slide right in.

Link to post
Share on other sites

It can be a little tricky to get the bolt carrier back in after field stripping. I usually have to push down on the hammer a little while pushing down and forward on the bolt carrier. There should be no need to hammer on it though. As for the trigger reset issue, the standard thing to check on is whether the mainspring legs are properly in place.

 

I've figured out an easy was of getting it in. If you know you have it all lined up right, then when your pushing down, gently push down on the bolt itself, I think that is what is actually getting snagged or maybe it just distributes the pressure better, but doing that makes me feel less like I'm "hurting" it. Yeah, I know, its an AK, but its an AK I want to keep forever and maybe pass down one day if its grandfathered in to some BS laws...

Link to post
Share on other sites

Im guessing you used the BHO lever? Did you make a small bend in the right hammer spring leg. I had this happen to me on a couple S12s and a S308. For some reason when you move everything forward, the right spring leg will slip on the right trigger leg and interfere with the disconnector. It might not do it during normal hand cycling, but the moment you take it out shooting, the recoil seems to make the spring leg jump off. If you go shooting, and you pull the trigger, rifle goes bang and cycles next round, you pull the trigger and nothing, instead of pushing the trigger forward, place the gun on safe, open top cover and look at the trigger assembly. You should be able to see what I am talking about. Also, Check CSS' website and click on videos. Look at the 3rd video down labeled JT Engineering springs and watch. He will explain where to make the bend. The same applies to the stock spring as well.

Link to post
Share on other sites

slather that bitch up with lubraplate....and leave it on there for a while without cleaning it.......i've seen this, and my ar i just put together on a tactical innovations lower.....grease up the right places, and let it sit, working it will mesh the parts together.....you dont really have to clean up the lubriplate either.....it'll just stay

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Chatbox

    Load More
    You don't have permission to chat.
×
×
  • Create New...