How do I install the most authentic Trigger Guard?

[Kilryth 0]

I want to make a conversion with a trigger guard that looks like it came out of the AK factory. I'm contemplating ordering a Bulgarian trigger guard + mag latch assembly, and replacing the SAIGA latch assembly. I also saw where some people modify the factory SAIGA trigger guard to fit inside the SAIGA mag latch. Whichever trigger guard I go with, I want to rivet it similar to how the factory does.

 

HOWEVER, I don't have any shop tools, and I don't want to spend more than $100 in a press or rivet tool. How could I go about riveting this new trigger guard in? I've never riveted before, and I understand the basic function. However, I don't know what tool is best for the job. Could someone help me figure out what to do? I don't like the bolts because of how much they differ in dimensions from the original rivets. I want it as original as possible. Thank you!

[Matthew Hopkins 1,065]

riveting a trigger guard is a easy thing to do, you don't need any special tools for that. all you need to do is install the rivet in the hole, the round side against the trigger guard plate, put the thing onto some thing very solid, I use one of the jaw of a vise, take a drift pin and smash the otherside that is in the receiver flat.

Edited April 27, 2010 by Matthew Hopkins

[L5K 162]

I did just that actually. It would be very beneficial if you had a drill press or access to one for getting the original rivets out. But as for the rivets and trigger guard stuff, it's all available from K-var for pretty cheap. The only problem I had was with the mag latch, as the trigger guard I ordered did not have the hole for the pin drilled, and well, there was absolutely no way I was going to drill into the hardened steel trigger guard they sent (dulled 3 cobalt drill bits trying)..... So....I ended up having to heat it up on the stove, then let it cool naturally to remove the temper, then drill it, then heat it up again, and douse it quickly in ice water to re-temper it.

 

As far as the rivets themselves I just made some rounded divets in the top of the vise jaws for the rivets to sit in while I pounded the inside down with a hammer and punch. The inside isn't too pretty, but it's not going anywhere, and they look factory from the outside.

[Kilryth 0]

That is such great news to hear!! I was afraid I'd have to buy jigs, presses, yada yada. I will definitely be doing it this way then! Any idea of where I can find one of those trigger guards WITH the hole for the mag latch? It doesn't make senses that it's not drilled.

 

I have some steel punches from Lowes; I was afraid that the rivets might be too hard for a hammer and punch. Sounds like I should be ok as long as I am careful.

 

I may get a drill press simply because it is so consistent, and it could be used in many other ways.

[L5K 162]

Yeah it can be done with a hammer and punch. Like I said it won't be as pretty on the inside, but that's not what counts. The main problem is that you have to hold the rifle, selector stop and trigger guard all as flat as possible. It did take a little bit of hammering on the round heads of the rivets to push the heads of the rivets back up flush with the trigger guard. They did seem to want to come out a little bit as the back of them was being smashed. With a little finesse they look great once done. If your rivets are like mine though they will take a pounding so a pretty big hammer would help a lot. When I started I was just tapping at them, that wasn't working so well and eventually I got confident and just pounded them hard.

 

As far as finding a trigger guard with the pin hole, I'm not really sure. You might try looking on the forum here, or sometimes you'll find good stuff in the EE on Arfcom. Everywhere I've checked is out of stock.

[Kilryth 0]

I appreciate it! I'll keep an eye out for one.

[Cobra 76 two 2,677]

What kind of Saiga are you putting this on? If it's a S-12 there is one type of TG you need. If it's any other there's another type. It sounds like you have a rifle or shotty besides the 12.

Either way I have the right TG you need. Send me a PM and I'll show you what I have available.

As far as installing it with rivets goes, I have the whole process covered in a tutorial, showing how to do it with hand tools and some home made rivet bucking tools I made from 1/2" x 1" bar stock.

It's a long tutorial that covers my complete conversion but the part about riveting on the TG should be very helpful.

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=5178

 

[L5K 162]

Just a heads up. Sounds like this guy might have a trigger guard for you. I don't know if it's the right one you'll have to ask him.

Link to thread where he has it.

Edited April 29, 2010 by L5K

[Kilryth 0]

I appreciate it; thanks L5K & Cobra!

[elia.jon1 1]

you dont have to be scared of hurting the rivit ....a small 3 pound sledge always worked good for me....maybe a big ball peen would be enough.....it wont quite work with a claw hammer.....

[Jigen 8]

I didn't have a problem with drilling the hole for the mag catch pin. I used a good drill bit and a drill press. I placed a piece of sacrificial wood inside the catch area to keep the sides from deforming or allowing the drill bit to wander and giving me holes that are out of alignment. In addition, we used a little bit of cutting oil and took everything slow and easy without putting too much pressure on the piece. We just let the bit cut, and didn't try to force it through the metal.

 

The part I had difficulty with was installing the catch lever and spring. I used a slave-pin to hold the spring and catch lever together when installing them into the trigger guard, but when we'd try to replace the slave pin by driving in the real pin that holds the latch together the spring would cause the lever to torque out of alignment at the last second as the slave pin was forced out. After much cussing and consulting a machinist, we used a long punch to drive out the slave pin and left it in place holding the latch together. The punch allowed us more control to overcome the torque and then we were able to drive out the punch with the mag catch pin. To crimp the ends, we just super glued a bb to each end of the pin and then pressed them in a vice.

 

With the rivets, I was lucky enough to stumble across someone who was selling their AK building gear and had an AK-Builder rivet jig for the trigger guard. He let it go for substantially less than the website lists them for. I imagine with a little bit of bar stock and a good drill you could make something that just held the rivet in place and kept the heads from deforming.