Install Muzzle Brake Upside down!

[cpileri 0]

Maybe, maybe not...

 

OK, take this muzzle brake:

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/Pro...AK+MUZZLE+BRAKE

 

The last one, the 30 cal with .355 exit hole, number 246-000-023.

For those for whom the link doesn't work, it is a short, fat version of the basic muzzle brake with 2-'gills' on each side, plus 2 smaller round holes on the 'top'.

Opposite the 2 small round holes it is solid, unperforated metal.

 

So obviously these 2 holes should be on top, right? venting gas up into your field of vision, as opposed to venting downward into the ground and kicking up dust, right? (in either case, the gills will vent to the sides, as designed).

 

Well, has anyone ever mounted this or a similar brake so that the small holes do in fact vent downwards?

does it make a big difference?

does it increase barrel rise? or does enough gas vent to the sides that it really doesn't matter?

 

When this brake is screwed onto a threaded adapter I saw, and cinched down as tight as possible, the small holes DO point straight down! It like it was meant to be. At first thought, you might say OK since it will not spit any blast up into your field of vision.

On second thought, it might be a real dust storm when firing prone.

 

And maybe, it will increase muzzle climb.

 

I don't know.

 

Does anyone?

C-

[Dieseler 0]

Holes should face up as you said. Indexing is always a problem with any screw-on adapter, thats why they were face down.

[IndyArms 10,186]

You would need what they call a "timing nut" to get that to thread to the proper holes UP position, then lock it in place there, with the timing nut.

 

[uzitiger 193]

I fired a Krinkov style muzzle brake with the holes to the right and the rifle was throwing to the left side until I aligned the holes so they point up. This reduced the tendency to kick up. Alignment is critical.

 

[cpileri 0]

Just a revisitation:

Somewhere between shot 1 and 2 with this brake on a threaded adapter and the adapter and brake as a single unit flew right off, shearing the pin that held it to the front sight clean off both ends. Landed about 12-15 yards downrange. of note: ABSOLUTELY no indications of a projectile strike on it! The brake looks like it was simply TOO efficient, and the expanding gas blew it off.

No damage to shooter, brake, or front sight. The front sight didnt even move, and held its point of aim!

Just a busted cross-pin, and bent the cut-outs on the adapter where the cross pin went through.

Many, including myself, witnessed it.

Just FYI on the possibility of a really good brake!

C-

 

 

 

 

Maybe, maybe not...

 

OK, take this muzzle brake:

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/Pro...AK+MUZZLE+BRAKE

 

The last one, the 30 cal with .355 exit hole, number 246-000-023.

For those for whom the link doesn't work, it is a short, fat version of the basic muzzle brake with 2-'gills' on each side, plus 2 smaller round holes on the 'top'.

Opposite the 2 small round holes it is solid, unperforated metal.

 

So obviously these 2 holes should be on top, right? venting gas up into your field of vision, as opposed to venting downward into the ground and kicking up dust, right? (in either case, the gills will vent to the sides, as designed).

 

Well, has anyone ever mounted this or a similar brake so that the small holes do in fact vent downwards?

does it make a big difference?

does it increase barrel rise? or does enough gas vent to the sides that it really doesn't matter?

 

When this brake is screwed onto a threaded adapter I saw, and cinched down as tight as possible, the small holes DO point straight down! It like it was meant to be. At first thought, you might say OK since it will not spit any blast up into your field of vision.

On second thought, it might be a real dust storm when firing prone.

 

And maybe, it will increase muzzle climb.

 

I don't know.

 

Does anyone?

C-

[G O B 3,516]

I had a simular problem with a 'tank cannon' style break. After about 50 rounds, it blew the adapter off of the barell. No bullet contact, just worked too good for the threaded adapter. I havn't gotten back to this project, but I want to put on a different front sight and thread the barrel itself.

 

G O B

[Bvamp 604]

ive seen on a lot of the new threaded muzzles here where I am (no, you cant have a threaded muzzle in NY), that there is a pin like what is on the saiga12's gas plug, that indexes the brake onto the gun, but it seems quite flimsy of a connection on these guns. I like how that is considered a pin or something that permanently affixes the brake to the barrel. cause it dont.

[pistonring8 1]

I have that style break, only full sized. I didnt notice much of a difference in recoil, but Im not very impressionable, so dont go by my perceptions. I pointed the small holes upward so that the muzzle blast would not kick up dust. I dont get much blast into my line of sight, unless its dark (or dimly lit) outside, but I dont think theres much you can do about the muzzle blast from a 16 inch rifle. Im sure you have also noticed the fireball emitted from your barrel.

 

I tried to retain the break with a pin pressed and epoxied into a very tight groove that I cut in the sleeve thats attached to the front sight. Needless to say, it was blown downrange as if it was not attached at all. I have since welded the break on and have had no further problems whatsoever. I dont mean welded, like becomming part of the rifle, I just gave it a little tack on the right and left side between the break and the sleeve. After about 1000 rounds, 2 complete rebuilds (for modification) and a paint job, the break is still as solid as ever.

 

Vjor has had the same results useing silver solder, which is also an accepted method of "permanent attachment" by the ATF.

 

I dont think that pointing the two little holes upward will make the Saiga stand straight up when fireing, but I didnt think mine would blow my break off either, so I dont think I can lend an oppinion on this one. Sorry.

[Cobra 76 two 2,677]

I had one of those pin on 74' style brakes just like pistonring8's on my AK for a long time and it held very securely. When installed it I used a cut off 1/8" drill bit for the pin and it was tight fitting enough to the FSB where I had to drive it in place with a block of wood. Those brakes are designed for use on AK FSBs and may not fit as securely on a Saiga factory FSB. I have since removed it and threaded the barrel for a proper brake.

 

cpileri's brake is a threaded one and the only problem was with the adapter. To index the top holes correctly you just need to install the adapter so that they are in the right position when it's tightened down. cpileri I advise that you use red Locktite if you reinstall it and maybe even drill some slight dimples where the set screw holes are and you shouldn't have a problem with it becoming a projectile then. The holes are in the top specifically to reduce muzzle climb. On the nicer more expensive "2 pc" 74' brakes there is also a hole on the right side to reduce muzzle flip.

 

Bvamp the detent pin is plenty strong enough to keep the brake from turning on the threads. That's all it has to do. The force of the blast is straight forward and the threads themselves hold it from moving.

[uzitiger 193]

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QUOTE(G O B @ Nov 13 2005, 08:34 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I had a simular problem with a 'tank cannon' style break. After about 50 rounds, it blew the adapter off of the barell. No bullet contact, just worked too good for the threaded adapter. I havn't gotten back to this project, but I want to put on a different front sight and thread the barrel itself.

 

G O B

 

I had the same thing happen to my Krinkov muzzle brake when the adapter and brake flew off the rifle. I recovered the parts 20 yards downrange. I then applied thread locker on the threaded adapter and used some super glue to keep it in place. The Krinkov brake hasn't flown off since I glued it in place.

 

If you use the threaded adapter then use super glue to keep it in place. Threading the barrel is a better solution.