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Mod the stock hammer


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I was studying the componets in the saigas receiver and I was wondering what would happen if I trimmed alittle off the hammer so I got out the dremel and trimmed off maybe an 1/8 and tested the trigger pull it was about 4 lbs now I don't know if that was the right thing to do but I figured if I messed it up I would just order a conversion kit. What difference would a conversion kit make to what I did

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There is a bigger benefit to removing burrs and polishing the contact surfaces of the trigger and hammer than shortening the length of the contact surfaces. Be sure to not change the angle of any contact surfaces. Get it smooth and then reduce travel. You may find that you don't want it shorter if you get it smooth enough. Mine is 'scary light' to most people and it has factory springs. Be careful.

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I implore people, only slightly profile the FACE of the hammer like one would do for an S-12 conversion. Narrow the axis of the hammer, & remove the bump on the axis if need be, but for the love of all that's holly DO NOT TRIM ANYTHING OFF OF THE SURFACES THAT THE DISCONNECTER OR TRIGGER HOOK(S) CONTACT.

 

Bad things can happen here if steel is removed. Stuff needs to be the right size for the trigger hook(s) to be able to grab the hammer as it leaves the disconnecter.

 

It's all sized to be able to go from the disconnecter to the trigger hook(s).

 

If looking for a smoother trigger pull, polish surfaces, don't change the size of them.

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I'm asking what other benefits will I get by buying an aftermarket trigger assembly that trimming the hammer won't give me

Gives you a compliance part.

 

As others have stated, don't 'trim' any areas of the hammer that contact the trigger or disconnecter.

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Some AFTER MARKET hammers require re-profiling to fit the S12 (it's not the same as a typical AK hammer) and typically only changed when performing a pistol grip conversion. As Trittium stated, a new U.S. made FCG counts as 3 compliance parts. In general, by moving the FCG and eliminating the way they engineered things to relocate it to the back of the gun you're going to end up with a smoother trigger with less travel. If you're not going to convert, then the best gains you're going to get will come from polishing contact surfaces and there's no real reason to profile anything.

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Some AFTER MARKET hammers require re-profiling to fit the S12 (it's not the same as a typical AK hammer) and typically only changed when performing a pistol grip conversion. As Trittium stated, a new U.S. made FCG counts as 3 compliance parts. In general, by moving the FCG and eliminating the way they engineered things to relocate it to the back of the gun you're going to end up with a smoother trigger with less travel. If you're not going to convert, then the best gains you're going to get will come from polishing contact surfaces and there's no real reason to profile anything.

I didn't notice he was talking about the factory hammer.

I was in th mindset of a conversion.

 

 

Cyclone.

You must now check & make sure your hammer is being pushed into the disconnecter well.

profiling the factory hammer isn't needed. It's the aftermarket that are too big & rob too much power from the cycle.

 

If you over-profile a factory hammer, the bottom of your carrier won't reset the hammer into the disconnecter & if you have a perfect alignment of variables, you could end up with a double-tap or a slamfire.

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I implore people, only slightly profile the FACE of the hammer like one would do for an S-12 conversion. Narrow the axis of the hammer, & remove the bump on the axis if need be, but gor the love of all that's holly DO NOT TRIM ANYTHING OFF OF THE SURFACES THAT THE DISCONNECTER OR TRIGGER HOOK(S) CONTACT.

 

Bad things can happen here if steel is removed. Stuff needs to be the right size for the trigger hook(s) to be able to grab the hammer as it leaves the disconnecter.

 

It's all sized to be able to go from the disconnecter to the trigger hook(s).

 

If looking for a smoother trigger pull, polish surfaces, don't change the size of them.

 

There is a HELL of a lot more going on in the fire control and bolt parts than meets the eye. Do "due diligence" in your research BEFORE modifying ANY of these parts! The factory hammer has a specific profile to clear the larger bolt, and strike the firing pin squarely. The hammer face is also shaped to prevent runaways if the hammer does not catch and rides the bolt home. Polish these parts LIGHTLY! And when doing a conversion, copy the factory profile of the hammer face CAREFULLY!

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