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Gas Adjustment when very dirty


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I am aware of the issues with the factory Gas adjustment knob being a pain to change from 1 to 2 and vice versa once the gun is very dirty. I've dealt with it a few times before. That being said I have no interest in one of the several aftermarket plugs for the added adjustments they give you as "1" and "2" have worked fine for me. I would, however, buy one if it were still readily adjustable after several (read 450 here) rounds have been through it.

 

As expected I had difficulty adjusting mine at the range yesterday after shooting it a few times since Christmas without cleaning it. Round count uncleaned is at 450 right now with no issues other than that adjustment difficulty.

 

My question is what is everyone's experience with adjusting various plugs with high round count without cleaning the weapon?

 

No problems with adjusting this ___________plug at a round count of ____________, but it did get difficult at this ____________ many rounds.

 

Auto plug excluded.

 

1. I don't like it.

 

2. Please don't start a flame war about the different plugs, I just want to know your experience with these plugs in relation to adj. when dirty only if you are kind enough to answer. Thanks.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I guess no one has tried to adjust their after market plugs when the gun was dirty..........

 

Yep, everybody gets the carbon blown into the threads making the gas plug hard to turn. I prefer the Gunfixer plug for ease of use, (not having to push the pin to adjust) but the issue with gunked up threads still happens.

 

I took some advice offered here about using anti-seize compound (high temp copper based stuff) on the threads but have not had a chance to test the difference at the range yet.

 

My advice..... get a Gunfixer, use the anti-seize, and keep a tool handy in the range bag to turn it when it gets stuck.

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I have the Gun Fixr on all of my guns and it is hard to turn when dirty just like the factory plug.I do find it easier to deal with since I can slide the back side of the blade on my pocket knife across two of the slots on the plug and adjust the gas without having to deal with the detent like the factory plug.

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You should be able to use a front sight post adjustment tool (for an AK/SKS) to turn the plug. No extra tools needed and it fits in a standard cleaning kit, for a buttstock. Work great for me.

 

140.jpg

 

EDIT; One came with both my Saiga rifles. Google turns it up as an SKS tool tho.

Edited by Mullet Man
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I run the factory plug and made it to about 400 round of Rem. value pack before failure with both the factory puck and the GoGun standard twister. I like the factory puck better (because it's factory) but the difference in operation was negligible.

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I run the factory plug and made it to about 400 round of Rem. value pack before failure with both the factory puck and the GoGun standard twister. I like the factory puck better (because it's factory) but the difference in operation was negligible.

 

They are a compliance part at best and gimmicky at worst

Edited by xdlover
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I am aware of the issues with the factory Gas adjustment knob being a pain to change from 1 to 2 and vice versa once the gun is very dirty. I've dealt with it a few times before. That being said I have no interest in one of the several aftermarket plugs for the added adjustments they give you as "1" and "2" have worked fine for me. I would, however, buy one if it were still readily adjustable after several (read 450 here) rounds have been through it.

 

As expected I had difficulty adjusting mine at the range yesterday after shooting it a few times since Christmas without cleaning it. Round count uncleaned is at 450 right now with no issues other than that adjustment difficulty.

 

My question is what is everyone's experience with adjusting various plugs with high round count without cleaning the weapon?

 

No problems with adjusting this ___________plug at a round count of ____________, but it did get difficult at this ____________ many rounds.

 

Auto plug excluded.

 

1. I don't like it.

 

2. Please don't start a flame war about the different plugs, I just want to know your experience with these plugs in relation to adj. when dirty only if you are kind enough to answer. Thanks.

 

Stan, A gas plug can't be done that will stay easy to turn due to lose factory tolerances or we would have done it. The factory threads aren't concertric to the gas chamber. This means the plug can't be exactly centered to the chamber. If it were we would have made a plug that would have sealed off in front or the threads preventing fouling from reaching them. We did put a ring on the v-plug to reduce it but it couldn't be too much thicker due to the nonconcentric threads... Oh well I guess... The same thing goes for completely shutting off the gas...

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I run the factory plug and made it to about 400 round of Rem. value pack before failure with both the factory puck and the GoGun standard twister. I like the factory puck better (because it's factory) but the difference in operation was negligible.

 

They are a compliance part at best and gimmicky at worst

 

There are some gimmicky plugs out there but the V-Plug isn't one of them. It does exactly what we say and everything we say. The gunfixer is a very nice plug as well but in my opinion it shouldn't be advertised as a reliability increasor. As for the others, well...

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I am aware of the issues with the factory Gas adjustment knob being a pain to change from 1 to 2 and vice versa once the gun is very dirty. I've dealt with it a few times before. That being said I have no interest in one of the several aftermarket plugs for the added adjustments they give you as "1" and "2" have worked fine for me. I would, however, buy one if it were still readily adjustable after several (read 450 here) rounds have been through it.

 

As expected I had difficulty adjusting mine at the range yesterday after shooting it a few times since Christmas without cleaning it. Round count uncleaned is at 450 right now with no issues other than that adjustment difficulty.

 

My question is what is everyone's experience with adjusting various plugs with high round count without cleaning the weapon?

 

No problems with adjusting this ___________plug at a round count of ____________, but it did get difficult at this ____________ many rounds.

 

Auto plug excluded.

 

1. I don't like it.

 

2. Please don't start a flame war about the different plugs, I just want to know your experience with these plugs in relation to adj. when dirty only if you are kind enough to answer. Thanks.

 

Stan, A gas plug can't be done that will stay easy to turn due to lose factory tolerances or we would have done it. The factory threads aren't concertric to the gas chamber. This means the plug can't be exactly centered to the chamber. If it were we would have made a plug that would have sealed off in front or the threads preventing fouling from reaching them. We did put a ring on the v-plug to reduce it but it couldn't be too much thicker due to the nonconcentric threads... Oh well I guess... The same thing goes for completely shutting off the gas...

 

Thanks for commenting Mike, getting ready to order some more cool stuff from you. Being a machinist though, I have contemplated cutting a small key or two into the threads to reduce surface area. Think making it look like a tap sort of. The threads are plenty strong enough to support the plug from ejection with only a couple 3/32" keys cutting away the threads 180 degrees apart, maybe three 120 degrees apart and I think gas loss would be negligible. See where I am going with this. BETA?

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I run the factory plug and made it to about 400 round of Rem. value pack before failure with both the factory puck and the GoGun standard twister. I like the factory puck better (because it's factory) but the difference in operation was negligible.

 

They are a compliance part at best and gimmicky at worst

 

To Mike and Mullet Man, he was referring to the puck, not the plug, and so was I when I said "true".

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I run the factory plug and made it to about 400 round of Rem. value pack before failure with both the factory puck and the GoGun standard twister. I like the factory puck better (because it's factory) but the difference in operation was negligible.

 

They are a compliance part at best and gimmicky at worst

 

To Mike and Mullet Man, he was referring to the puck, not the plug, and so was I when I said "true".

 

Before he edited his post (after i quoted him), he had written something about a gas plug at the end of it. I should have quoted the whole post. Either way tho, point clarified. Carry on

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I run the factory plug and made it to about 400 round of Rem. value pack before failure with both the factory puck and the GoGun standard twister. I like the factory puck better (because it's factory) but the difference in operation was negligible.

 

They are a compliance part at best and gimmicky at worst

 

To Mike and Mullet Man, he was referring to the puck, not the plug, and so was I when I said "true".

Whoops... As far as making an exit through the threads... I can't say for sure but comparing to the many open piston designs we have tried while trying to make a stay clean piston I dont think you will see much improvement. The gas is like a liquid. Imagine filling you block up with water. It would easily find its way into the threads. Now imagine that water under pressure. Once the chamber fill to a certain point it will push the gas and fouling into the threads regardless. Also the channels will fill up with fouling reducing the flow through. Also on the gas loss... We have found it doesn't take much of an opening at all to cause power loss while testingopen design pistons. Nothing you couldn't compensate for but without a major improvement in staying clean I don't think it would be worth the trouble.

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