Jump to content

E-clips for conversion


Recommended Posts

I see retainer plates for $5, and wire retainers for a little less. Ive heard of guys using e-clips, and since its only for keeping the pins from backing out they should all be the same, right? Has anyone used them and what size would I need?

Link to post
Share on other sites

E clips will work but are a pain in the ass if you ever do remove them. In my opinion there is no better solution than the plate. I don't like small parts that are easy to lose...

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I have never had e-Clips fail, to fail.

 

Every time I have used them I have found at least one loose in the firearm after a firing session. Apparently, some folks have been more lucky...

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have never had e-Clips fail, to fail.

 

Every time I have used them I have found at least one loose in the firearm after a firing session. Apparently, some folks have been more lucky...

 

 

I take it you are saying theyre a pain in the ass, correct? I do want something that will hold up to sustained shooting sessions.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Retainer plates usually work well and saves some time. E-clips have also served me well--I think the 3/16" ones if I remember.

 

 

Have you run into problems like Azrial has? Or have your run just fine from session to session?

Link to post
Share on other sites

E clips will work but are a pain in the ass if you ever do remove them. In my opinion there is no better solution than the plate. I don't like small parts that are easy to lose...

But you can get a bag of a hundred e-clips for a couple bucks so if you do lose a couple you're out a couple pennies, and a dental hook or small screwdriver can get them out handily, and reinstall with the screwdriver. If your plate works for you, nothing wrong with that either.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have 2 AK's that were built with E clips. One is a Blue Ridge SLR100, & the other an Arsenal USA SSR85C. Both guns have been trouble free & work just fine. Since I have no need to remove the FCG, I leave it alone. If it isn't broke, I don't try to fix it. However, should I ever have trouble & the clips should ever pop off, I would probably get one of those fancy retainer plates. GARY N4KVE

Edited by N4KVE
Link to post
Share on other sites

If you don't mind them coming off, as have been mentioned here by others, use the e-clips. I insist on reliability in my AK and they would come off after every session. My plate has never failed!

On the other hand, you may be luckier then me in their use!

 

Either way, good luck!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Why wouldn't you use the factory-style wire retainer? There is nothing more proven.

 

 

I may, that is not out of the question at all. Really all im looking at is 5 dollars either way, real pocket change compared to other parts.

Question: Will the factory wire retainer that is in my saiga x39 work in the conversion? It doesnt look like it will.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Why wouldn't you use the factory-style wire retainer? There is nothing more proven.

 

 

I may, that is not out of the question at all. Really all im looking at is 5 dollars either way, real pocket change compared to other parts.

Question: Will the factory wire retainer that is in my saiga x39 work in the conversion? It doesnt look like it will.

 

Yes it will, and even though cost really isn't a factor IMO with this part...convenience is. I like the more tried and true, battle proven shepherd's crook myself, but when selling something to others who haven't done much work with FCGs in AKs, the plate is the way to go IMO.

 

That said, it's very easy (and free) to just cut the original spring and use that. All you need is something to go over the hammer pin, and under the trigger pin.

You can even cut it into one straight piece that fits between the rear block, or stock adapter, and the front trunnion or rail, and flexes to hold both pins just fine.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

]

 

Yes it will, and even though cost really isn't a factor IMO with this part...convenience is. I like the more tried and true, battle proven shepherd's crook myself, but when selling something to others who haven't done much work with FCGs in AKs, the plate is the way to go IMO.

 

That said, it's very easy (and free) to just cut the original spring and use that. All you need is something to go over the hammer pin, and under the trigger pin.

You can even cut it into one straight piece that fits between the rear block, or stock adapter, and the front trunnion or rail, and flexes to hold both pins just fine.

 

 

 

I see. So the one used in the factory saiga is a little longer. Cut it to length, and cut 3 of the loops off where it goes around the safety and it should be just fine. The spring loops around in the back 5 times so it looks a little thick to fit on the safety. Probably because its on one of the pivot pins for the stock FCG. Two cuts and it looks like it will fit.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Chatbox

    Load More
    You don't have permission to chat.
×
×
  • Create New...