berma051 3 Posted May 21, 2011 Report Share Posted May 21, 2011 hellow everyone i just finished my convertion and i used some blk engin paint to paint just the bottem portion where the old trigger used to be and got it to where i wanted it to be, then i decided to spray some action blaser degreaser to make sher the fire arm was clean before i put the fcg in but then my paint job started coming off wtf can u guys recomend a better paint that wount come off with strong cleaners hows aluma hyde 2 something spray and easy to apply would be nice thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vulcan16 971 Posted May 21, 2011 Report Share Posted May 21, 2011 (edited) Very few paints will adhere if its not properly cured before using a strong cleaner. Try using compressed air instead of cleaner next time. Edited May 21, 2011 by Jetmech Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L5K 162 Posted May 21, 2011 Report Share Posted May 21, 2011 I have had good experiences with Brownell's Alumahyde 2. I think Brownell's is the only place to get it though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
berma051 3 Posted May 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2011 Very few paints will adhere if its not properly cured before using a strong cleaner. Try using compressed air instead of cleaner next time. yeh thats wat i thought but still i need something that holds up cause thats wat i use too clean my guns Quote Link to post Share on other sites
my762buzz 141 Posted May 22, 2011 Report Share Posted May 22, 2011 Very few paints will adhere if its not properly cured before using a strong cleaner. Try using compressed air instead of cleaner next time. yeh thats wat i thought but still i need something that holds up cause thats wat i use too clean my guns I have tried most kinds of retail spray on paint. The VHT caliper paint is the most chemical resistant one in the less than $10 category. It does require baking it at 200 degrees for a while. The VHT header paint might also be chemical resistant but it requires 600 degree curing and that is way to hot to bake at. I seen steel springs lose their temper and ruin when baked 300-600 and will not ever bake a coating that high again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
berma051 3 Posted May 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2011 i just dont have the ability to cook a gun or else i would i gess ill have to watch it with the ak Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChileRelleno 7,071 Posted May 23, 2011 Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 (edited) 500* Duplicolor Ceramic Enamel, colors- Cast Coat Iron (DE1651) & (DE1634) Low Gloss Black, is what I've used, the Black blends very well with the original finish. I had one area streak a little when I indirectly doused it with brake cleaner and unknowingly let it sit a few minutes. Other than that, tough as nails. This stuff doesn't require baking, is heat/chemical resistant and it is really tough. Comes in a wide array of colors, http://duplicolor.co...ts/enginePaint/ Sold in most auto parts stores. Edited May 23, 2011 by ChileRelleno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
my762buzz 141 Posted May 23, 2011 Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 (edited) i just dont have the ability to cook a gun or else i would i gess ill have to watch it with the ak Well, there is also Dura Coat which requires no heating to cure and it is suppose to be much more chemical resistant than most anything else that would not need baking. I never tried it but plenty of people rave about it and now they have a shake and spray system which requires no airbrush or air compressor. Edited May 23, 2011 by my762buzz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jamesavery22 54 Posted May 23, 2011 Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 ... Well, there is also Dura Coat which requires no heating to cure and it is suppose to be much more chemical resistant than most anything else that would not need baking. I never tried it but plenty of people rave about it and now they have a shake and spray system which requires no airbrush or air compressor. Nice: http://www.lauerweaponry.com/ They are pre-packaging pre-val cans with their stuff. Just curious, are others opposed to baking to cure? Throwing a painted rifle in the oven is half the fun Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bpipe95 8 Posted May 23, 2011 Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 (edited) i just dont have the ability to cook a gun or else i would i gess ill have to watch it with the ak You can build a rather awesome gun oven for ~$50 using the following. A single burner hot plate 4ft of 8" single wall chimny vent 1 roll of 8" vent insulation 1 BBQ grill thermometer and a small lid made of plywood. I just did a round of guns in my double chamber gun oven this past weekend, works absolutely awesome. Here is a quick pic I did a double to speed up the process for the coating I was and will always be using, one chamber warming while the other baked. Due to it being a double it did cost a bit more. Edited May 23, 2011 by bpipe95 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
berma051 3 Posted May 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 i just dont have the ability to cook a gun or else i would i gess ill have to watch it with the ak You can build a rather awesome gun oven for ~$50 using the following. A single burner hot plate 4ft of 8" single wall chimny vent 1 roll of 8" vent insulation 1 BBQ grill thermometer and a small lid made of plywood. I just did a round of guns in my double chamber gun oven this past weekend, works absolutely awesome. Here is a quick pic I did a double to speed up the process for the coating I was and will always be using, one chamber warming while the other baked. Due to it being a double it did cost a bit more. that is fuken awesome lol wish i had the time to make one of those Quote Link to post Share on other sites
berma051 3 Posted May 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 ... Well, there is also Dura Coat which requires no heating to cure and it is suppose to be much more chemical resistant than most anything else that would not need baking. I never tried it but plenty of people rave about it and now they have a shake and spray system which requires no airbrush or air compressor. Nice: http://www.lauerweaponry.com/ They are pre-packaging pre-val cans with their stuff. Just curious, are others opposed to baking to cure? Throwing a painted rifle in the oven is half the fun yeh hu lol forgot about that thanks for reminding me Quote Link to post Share on other sites
berma051 3 Posted May 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 ok i also need to paint a couple other guns so its basicly down to dura coat and aluma hyde 2 so wats better wats ur guys experinces with them Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bpipe95 8 Posted May 23, 2011 Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 Moly resin. There is nothing else. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L5K 162 Posted May 24, 2011 Report Share Posted May 24, 2011 ok i also need to paint a couple other guns so its basicly down to dura coat and aluma hyde 2 so wats better wats ur guys experinces with them I've never used Duracoat but I have always been happy with the price/performance of Alumahyde 2. I believe Duracoat is probably a little stronger though, but only because it seems to be what everyone prefers, so there must be something to it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
berma051 3 Posted May 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 fuck all his shit i wana nickel boron coat my ak if Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scott Kenny 144 Posted May 26, 2011 Report Share Posted May 26, 2011 (edited) Then drag yourself out to a gunsmith and pony up the cash for Parkerizing. It's tough to beat manganese phosphate coatings, but they do wear over time. [reason for edit: spelling] Edited May 26, 2011 by Scott Kenny Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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