fredom4all333 0 Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 Hey for those who have installed a bullet guide on their round trunnion 7.62' has the guide been flush with the end of the trunnion or does it stick out a little bit? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paprotective 362 Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 sticks out about 1/8" into the magwell area on most.. it will slide under the chamber till it hits the wall and then stops. should hang alittle into the mag section.. take an empty mag (that you modified the mag catch for I guess) and then measure with that inserted before you drill the trunnion.. should mate up with a HAIR between the mag FRONT and the bullet guide.. hope this helps.. Al Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stnls1911 55 Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 Mine sits closer to the barrel than the mag, I've had no problems with steel mags at all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shades_of_grey 1,092 Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 The bg is not flush with the trunnion by design: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fredom4all333 0 Posted June 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 Thank you to everyone who replied, everything was going good on the install until the tap sheered in half not even leaving a nub to twist out with some pliers. Any suggestions on that one? I tried a smaller cobalt bit to drill the tap out but the tap seems a harder material because its not even putting a dent in it. I might be able to move the BG a little left (if looking down the barrel.) and re-drill and tap?! would there be any precaution about doing so? Thanks again! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paprotective 362 Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 use a PUNCH to punch the tap thru... (there is a small gap under the trunnion.. remove the handguard and you'll see the gap).. wear glasses when doing so.. and pick up the TAP pieces.. one piece in your foot and you'll learn.. put up a pic with a MOCKUP after you get the TAP out and we can help you more.. without we are lost. Al Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vindex 3 Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 Yeah. i broke my tap 3 times the other day doing my guide. each time came out fairly easily by banging on it with a small punch. don't be afraid to give it a couple of good whacks when the punch is centered. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fredom4all333 0 Posted June 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 Well here's where I'm stuck. The broken tap is now flush, punching seems to be doing nothing more than bending my punch, Ive tried drilling out the tap but its too hard to get it started and to keep from "walking". While placing the BG on the area I think if I were to re-drill a new hole essentially where the hole on the upper right hand side of the photo is. (the one in the void of the tap) It does appear I would have enough room to still get the screw in. Any reason why that would be a no-no? The tap is poking out the bottom side which is why I'm guessing is such a pain in the ars to punch out. Anyone know of any other methods of broken tap removal? I suppose the last question to ask here is should I A:stop while I'm behind and take it to a gun smith to clean up my mess and do the install or B: leave it where it is and simply use the standard saiga mags =/ Well I'm off to the store to get a new tap hopefully there will be some replies when I get back. Thanks for the help. Well here's where I'm stuck. The broken tap is now flush, punching seems to be doing nothing more than bending my punch, Ive tried drilling out the tap but its too hard to get it started and to keep from "walking". While placing the BG on the area I think if I were to re-drill a new hole essentially where the hole on the upper right hand side of the photo is. (the one in the void of the tap) It does appear I would have enough room to still get the screw in. Any reason why that would be a no-no? The tap is poking out the bottom side which is why I'm guessing is such a pain in the ars to punch out. Anyone know of any other methods of broken tap removal? I suppose the last question to ask here is should I A:stop while I'm behind and take it to a gun smith to clean up my mess and do the install or B: leave it where it is and simply use the standard saiga mags =/ Well I'm off to the store to get a new tap hopefully there will be some replies when I get back. Thanks for the help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bigtwin 219 Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 I cannot guide you with the broken tap removal(it can be a bitch) yes the tap is a very hard metal, to drill one out you will destroy even $25 drill bits, though it can be done. All I can say is when you get it out, slow and steady wins the race. A tap,being very hard metal, does not take to kindly to stress of being crooked or impact and things of the like, they are hard but very brittle. Care should be taken, I know a little too late but just don't get carried away. I can only assume you either twisted it too hard or bottomed out. Good luck OP! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
leadslinger 37 Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 get very fine needle nose pliers and try to grab any bit of the tap and back (reverse) it out. if that doesn't work you can try using a small flat head screw driver (very small and thin ) tap the tap in reverse to back it out take your time. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jonnyb135 0 Posted June 23, 2011 Report Share Posted June 23, 2011 One very easy way to do it is to drill it out with a masonry bit. I've broken off a tap exactly the same way. You should have no problem drilling through and busting up the tap (don't bother with a hammer drill even), and then you can simply drill a slightly larger hole and re-tap (larger tap obviously). Hope it helps. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Las_Vegas_HK 0 Posted June 25, 2011 Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 What about installing you bullet guide over the broken tap head and welding the hole in place? A tig would maybe make this problem go away. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
t3mac21 1 Posted June 25, 2011 Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 The bg is not flush with the trunnion by design: Truth. My factory made WASR is the same way. It's design. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fredom4all333 0 Posted June 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 well I'm trying out the masonry bit, its working slowly but surely. I will say though welding it in place is starting to seem like a nice idea. would JB weld be sufficient or should I find me a welder? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ivan1 0 Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 Is breaking the tap pretty common? Mine went thru really easy and I was suprised to see how thin the metal is in that area. I'm almost afraid it'll be to weak. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paprotective 362 Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 well I'm trying out the masonry bit, its working slowly but surely. I will say though welding it in place is starting to seem like a nice idea. would JB weld be sufficient or should I find me a welder? Some people get a short ROUND BUTTON HEAD screw w/allen key and a nut and use that.. other here have used JB Weld and reported 0 issues thus far. Al Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fredom4all333 0 Posted June 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 I like the idea of the button head screw and bolt. I'm a bit weary of re-tapping the hole I'm making currently, as there will still be trace bits of the old tap I imagine trying to tap the harder material might not go so well. As the feed ramp is a "high traffic area" does the screw/bolt combo ever come loose? I want to go with the most reliable as that's the reason I got this rifle over an AR. On a side note, I like the sand/black rifle on the top of your photo Al. I'm going with the OD green/ black on my rifle, admittedly I'm totally going to paint my safety selector after seeing yours! Hope you don't mind. ;P Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stnls1911 55 Posted June 29, 2011 Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 As the feed ramp is a "high traffic area" does the screw/bolt combo ever come loose? The threads got messed up on mine, and the hole is slightly off-center, my fault. I just used the #6-32 screw and added a locknut on the bottom of the trunnion, haven't had any problems at all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fredom4all333 0 Posted June 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 Out of curiosity about how many rounds have you put through it since? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stnls1911 55 Posted June 29, 2011 Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 Out of curiosity about how many rounds have you put through it since? At least 300, I have had no wiggle / movement at all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fredom4all333 0 Posted June 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2011 well I finally got all the way through and where the hole is the nut that I'm using (also on a 6-32 size screw) doesn't have enough room to thread before the edge of the nut hits the side of the trunnion. So I can dremel down one side of the nut, or If you know what size nut your using on your 6-32 screw maybe it might work for me, even though our holes could be in entirely different locations. Here I was thinking the bullet guide install would be the easiest part to do on the conversion. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stnls1911 55 Posted June 30, 2011 Report Share Posted June 30, 2011 I drilled my hole off-center, a bit toward the barrell. I had to hold the nut with a pair of needle-nose pliers until the threads grabbed. I then used a wrench to hold the nut in place. When I have the screw tightened down, there is a slight cant to the screw, but it hasn't caused any problems. I'm thinking about grinding it flush. I did use a 6-32 locknut. I recommend a flat or phillips head screw, because I stripped the button head screw while doing this method. It was a pain to get back out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pjj342 632 Posted June 30, 2011 Report Share Posted June 30, 2011 Is breaking the tap pretty common? Mine went thru really easy and I was suprised to see how thin the metal is in that area. I'm almost afraid it'll be to weak. From what I see on this site, breaking taps is very common. With my dinzag parts, everything went as planned. I honestly think that some guys just go too fast. I didnt have a tap handle, just the chuck in my drill. I went in 1/8 turn, then out 1/4, and repeated. Nothing broke and even my drill bit went thru like butter. I hear horror stories about breaking drill bits, not being able to make a dent in the trunion, and breaking taps. step 1: Make a nice divot with your center punch step2: drill step3: Take your time and tap, Its really just that easy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stnls1911 55 Posted June 30, 2011 Report Share Posted June 30, 2011 Is breaking the tap pretty common? Mine went thru really easy and I was suprised to see how thin the metal is in that area. I'm almost afraid it'll be to weak. From what I see on this site, breaking taps is very common. With my dinzag parts, everything went as planned. I honestly think that some guys just go too fast. I didnt have a tap handle, just the chuck in my drill. I went in 1/8 turn, then out 1/4, and repeated. Nothing broke and even my drill bit went thru like butter. I hear horror stories about breaking drill bits, not being able to make a dent in the trunion, and breaking taps. step 1: Make a nice divot with your center punch step2: drill step3: Take your time and tap, Its really just that easy. Agreed, wish I would've taken it slower. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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