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saiga 12 BS is this a vodka special?


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heres a video of it in action, i dont think it was cause it didnt have alot of lube it should run with dirt in it if its an ak. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KtPn-euM09E&feature=channel_video_title

 

anywho... i tried it on setting 1 and setting 2. it would ethier A not open the bolt at all and not even try to eject or b get caught and not eject properly. uhmm i have heard alot of people talk about these little 2-4 holes that may need to get drilled out? wtf is that about i havent found a forum topic or even know what part of the gun they is talking about.

 

another thing i realised today ,

wtf so apparently you cannot put S12 mags in the gun without the bolt being open? so much for keeping one in the chamber...

 

if anyone has any bright ideas on this issue i would appreciate it so much... keepin me a big fan of the saigas and i got big plans for this one if i can get it to cycle right. high brass seems like no problems at all......

 

 

i just dont seem to understand why that...drilling out more holes if the lower power loads are haveing problems. or even haveing problems ejecting would help. wouldnt it mean the valve needs to be as tight as possible to allow for more gas?

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First thing.......shoulder that gun like you mean it. Low brass should be on setting 2. After that, start reading the stickies.

 

ETA: The gas plug is not a "valve" that needs to be tightened. It is either open (2) or closed (1), and setting one does not close it completely. Some gas still gets by to work the action. And be patient. The gun will work great after it's tuned.

Edited by Yeoldetool
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Agree, until it is broken in and/or tuned, it needs to be firmly shouldered and fired using high brass.

 

 

#1 Check the ports. How many, are they clear/unobstructed? In some cases, drilling another port or enlarging current ports is a excellent cure for a sluggish action.

Your gas ports are located in the gas block, the part that the gas plug screws into.

You can use a dental pick or bent paperclip, to check them, as in how many, are they clear/unobstructed?

saiga_gas_port_after_mod.jpg

 

#2 Clean-n-lube it thoroughly, check for and smooth any burrs, rough edges, shavings in the action. Lube it up, oil the bolt/FCG, grease the rails.

#3 Break it in. It cycles high brass, great! Go have some fun and dump 300+ 00 thru it, this will smooth out any rough spots.

#4 Aftermarket Gas Plug, everyone seems to love the V-Plug right now... I've a older Gunfixer gas plug, works great.

#5 Aftermarket Gas Puck, I've tried 3-4 out, can't ascertain any significant difference between their individual effectiveness. Supposedly the MD Arms Booster has qualities which help an under gassed gun.

#6 Polish/re-contour the bolt. This is a really nice mod. Significantly cuts down on resistance/friction during the cycling of the action.

#7 Low power recoil springs on the recoil assembly & low power hammer spring. IMHO, a last ditch effort for the truly desperate.

 

OK, you have tried all the above, and perhaps a few I missed or that I just don't bother to consider.

Really want the gun to run as designed? Feed it a steady diet of full power/high brass ammo, this is what it was designed to shoot.

It was not designed to shoot low brass/low recoil, cheap assed bulk ammo. Give it what it wants.

If it doesn't eat low brass/low recoil right out of the box, it isn't a failure of the gun.

 

Mine has ate damned near everything I've ever fed it... Just lucky I guess.

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Just take your gas plug and unscrew it until it comes out, at that point you will see what setting 1 and 2 mean. Then once the plug is out you should see one big hole in the gas block (3/8 I would guess from memory) and then you should be able to see a few holes in the barrel, you might not be able to see all of them but there might be up to 4 holes, then you should be able to take a small pick or something similar and find all the holes. If they are all there, then at that point you might have to actually remove your gas block and make the holes larger. Seems like youre plenty under gassed. These guns just take a little work sometimes.

 

Edit: While I was typing this ChileRelleno posted and his post kicks ass.

Edited by White Rider
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Mine was the same way new. Dont get bummed out they need to be broke in. Winchester universal is about the weakest ammo you can feed it. For cheap bulk the federal is a lot better. I sanded my rails with 400 and 600 grit then greased them. hand cycle it a couple thousand times. Also read the polishing bolt thred. every thing you want ot know is right here to make that thing run like a raped ape.

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+1 to everything said.

until it's broke in:

AMMO

- Winchester Expert (Silver Box ONLY) 1350 FPS

- Estate heavy game loads

- Federal Game Shock 1290 FPS

- Gas Block Collects Debris faster when the gun is green, and the cheaper ammo is dirty, so be sure to remove the gas adjustment plug after every 3-4 boxes of ammo

- Winchester Expert is steel this ammo will hone your new ports faster than lead shot

- If you want to run cheaper low base bird shot, you can increase the back pressure and tighten your pattern by screwing on a poly choke, setting it to full or extra full choke.

 

I hope this helps you too...

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Patience grass hopperbig_smile.gif Read as much as you can, do what others say.

Mine took 70 rounds of low brass too even get to empty the factory 5 mag.

I have shoot close to 1000 rounds and mine works great, from the sholder, hip, low brass and mag loads.

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Buy the cheap wallmart low brass shells. Shot the whole box up with a Pump Shot Gun. (Then reload them 00 Buck Shot!!)

post-31600-0-85042800-1299111570_thumb.jpg

I Even smelt lead and have a Lee 00 buck shot mold. Saves me TONS of money and I have not had to worry about drilling extra holes in my barrel for gas ports.

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First thing.......shoulder that gun like you mean it.

 

My first thought exactly! Lean into the shotgun and handle it, dont let it push you around!

 

If you do try steel birdshot, know what you are shooting at. It will ricochet back at you!

 

EDIT #2; This is what people are talking about when you read about gas port and gas block modification....

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/33836-modification-to-repair-fte-issues-on-saigas-with-blocked-gas-ports/

Edited by Mullet Man
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