DIY Home Water Purification

[yakdung 2,926]

How big are we talking about?

http://www.bayteccontainers.com/waterbarrels.html

Yakdung

[armory 142]

My Grandfather used to bring the food grade versions home from work. He made/kept "homebrew" in them for years. He also made docks, rafts and even cut one open and made a one man canoe.

 

How big are we talking about?

http://www.bayteccon...terbarrels.html

Yakdung

[G O B 3,516]

My water has a high iron content. To get the iron out, it takes a chlorine injection and time to oxidize the iron to make it clump and stick in the filter. The tempering tank is just another pressure storage tank (accumulator) that is in the line between the normal 20gal pressure tank and the filter. A chemical pump injects chlorine water into the line between the tanks when the well pump runs. It draws from a separate 15gal tank where I put 1 1/2 cup of chlorine bleach to each 5 gal of treat water. The chemical pump is adjustable so the chlorine content can be regulated to oxidize the iron but not leave any chlorine smell in the water. After the filter I have a dual resin tank softener that is never off line to regenerate, it switches tanks seamlessly and regenerates the off line tank without effecting the one that is in use. Single tank softeners use a time clock and regenerate on a schedule with out regard to need. Mine regenerates every 1,000gal. By using the 'red out' salt for the brine tank I can slightly decrease the chlorine just below saturation so there is none in the finished water. The 75 gal tank of pressurized water has the side benefit of available tap water increasing to 95 gal when there is NO electricity! I can run the generator periodically and have water continuously! pressure tanks are cheap and easy to install, just plumb one into the supply line with a check valve on the supply side. The full volume of the tank is then available at the tap when the supply fails. Beats the hell out of storing 5 gal buckets, and it is always fresh.

Edited March 5, 2012 by G O B

[armory 142]

My water has a high iron content. To get the iron out, it takes a chlorine injection and time to oxidize the iron to make it clump and stick in the filter. The tempering tank is just another pressure storage tank (accumulator) that is in the line between the normal 20gal pressure tank and the filter. A chemical pump injects chlorine water into the line between the tanks when the well pump runs. It draws from a separate 15gal tank where I put 1 1/2 cup of chlorine bleach to each 5 gal of treat water. The chemical pump is adjustable so the chlorine content can be regulated to oxidize the iron but not leave any chlorine smell in the water. After the filter I have a dual resin tank softener that is never off line to regenerate, it switches tanks seamlessly and regenerates the off line tank without effecting the one that is in use. Single tank softeners use a time clock and regenerate on a schedule with out regard to need. Mine regenerates every 1,000gal. By using the 'red out' salt for the brine tank I can slightly decrease the chlorine just below saturation so there is none in the finished water. The 75 gal tank of pressurized water has the side benefit of available tap water increasing to 95 gal when there is NO electricity! I can run the generator periodically and have water continuously! pressure tanks are cheap and easy to install, just plumb one into the supply line with a check valve on the supply side. The full volume of the tank is then available at the tap when the supply fails. Beats the hell out of storing 5 gal buckets, and it is always fresh.

You seem to know your stuff! Wow!

But I do have a question. i know that high iron will leave sediment in the pipes and rings in your toilet.

But is there harmful effects?

I think drinking chlorine in water would be worse for you than iron in water.

[ChileRelleno 7,071]

Chlorine in water is bad for you, which is why they regulate it, 4ppm or less.

Iron In Drinking Water

 

Iron can be a troublesome chemical in water supplies. Making up at least 5 percent of the earth’s crust, iron is one of the earth’s most plentiful resources. Rainwater as it infiltrates the soil and underlying geologic formations dissolves iron, causing it to seep into aquifers that serve as sources of groundwater for wells. Although present in drinking water, iron is seldom found at concentrations greater than 10 milligrams per liter (mg/L) or 10 parts per million. However, as little as 0.3 mg/l can cause water to turn a reddish brown color.

Iron is mainly present in water in two forms: either the soluble ferrous iron or the insoluble ferric iron. Water containing ferrous iron is clear and colorless because the iron is completely dissolved. When exposed to air in the pressure tank or atmosphere, the water turns cloudy and a reddish brown substance begins to form. This sediment is the oxidized or ferric form of iron that will not dissolve in water.

Health

 

Iron is not hazardous to health, but it is considered a secondary or aesthetic contaminant. Essential for good health, iron helps transport oxygen in the blood. Most tap water in the United States supplies approximately 5 percent of the dietary requirement for iron.

Taste and Food

 

Dissolved ferrous iron gives water a disagreeable metallic taste. When the iron combines with tea, coffee and other beverages, it produces an inky, black appearance and a harsh, unacceptable taste. Vegetables cooked in water containing excessive iron turn dark and look unappealing.

Stains and Deposits

 

Concentrations of iron as low as 0.3 mg/L will leave reddish brown stains on fixtures, tableware and laundry that are very hard to remove. When these deposits break loose from water piping, rusty water will flow through the faucet.

Iron Bacteria

 

When iron exists along with certain kinds of bacteria, a smelly biofilm can form. To survive, the bacteria use the iron, leaving behind a reddish brown or yellow slime that can clog plumbing and cause an offensive odor. This slime or sludge is noticeable in the toilet tank when the lid is removed. The organisms occur naturally in shallow soils and groundwater, and they may be introduced into a well or water system when it is constructed or repaired.

Organic Iron and Tannins

 

Iron can combine with different naturally-occurring organic acids or tannins. Organic iron occurs when iron combines with an organic acid. Water with this type of iron is usually yellow or brown, but may be colorless. As natural organics produced by vegetation, tannins can stain water a tea color. In coffee or tea, tannins produce a brown color and react with iron to form a black residue. Organic iron and tannins are more frequently found in shallow wells, or wells under the influence of surface water.

Test Your Water

 

If there is an iron problem with the water supply, the first step is to determine the source. The source of iron may be from the corrosion of iron or steel pipes or other components of the plumbing system where the acidity of the water, measured as pH, is below 6.5.

A laboratory analysis of water to determine the extent of the iron problem and possible treatment solutions should begin with tests for iron concentration, iron bacteria, pH, alkalinity, and hardness. A water sample kit can be obtained from a certified laboratory. The laboratory’s instructions for collecting the water sample should be followed. Collect the sample as close to the well as possible.

If the source of water is a public water system and you experience iron-related problems, it is important to contact a utility official to determine whether the red water is from the public system or from the home’s plumbing or piping.

Well Construction

 

One alternative in solving an iron problem may be to construct a new water well, eliminating the need for treatment. Depending on local land conditions, it is sometimes possible to extend a “well casing” or “screen” deeper into the groundwater and avoid the water with high iron levels. An Illinois licensed water well contractor, knowledgeable about the quality of groundwater, can be contacted to discuss options.

Treatment

 

The table on the next page lists the treatment methods for the various forms of iron. Before choosing a water treatment method or device, make sure you have answers to the following five questions:

1. What form of iron do I have in my water system?
   
2. According to the water test results, will the water treatment unit remove the total iron concentration? (Total iron includes both soluble and insoluble iron.)
   
3. Will the treatment unit treat the water at the flow rate required for my water system?
   
4. Based on the results of the water tests, will this method effectively remove iron? For example, will the pH have to be adjusted prior to a particular treatment?
   
5. Would the construction of a new well or the reconstruction of an existing well be more cost effective than a long-term iron removal treatment process?
   

Treatment Methods for Various Forms of Iron

Symptoms

Form of Iron

Treatment Methods

Considerations

Tap water is first clear and colorless. After standing, reddish brown particles appear and settle to bottom of glass.

Dissolved ferrous iron

Aeration/Filtration

Temperature dependent

Water softener

Hardness must be calculated and increased sodium concentration should be checked if users(s) on restricted sodium diet. System must be airtight.

Chlorination/Filtration

Use of chlorine liquid or pellets. Requires frequent monitoring and proper water pressure. May require lengthy contact time.

Manganese Greensand/Filtration ¹

Adequate pressure

Catalytic filtration²

Dissolved oxygen, alkalinity, organic matter, chlorination, polyphosphate, and temperature limitations

Ozonation

Cost

Sequestering (adding chemical agents to water to keep iron to an insoluble, filterable form)

Method may not prevent staining and may require removal of sequestering agents and iron. Test for agents before choosing another treatment device.

Tap water appears rusty or has a red or yellow color. After standing, particles settle to bottom.

Insoluble red water ferric iron

Manganese Greensand/Filtration¹

Adequate pressure

Catalytic filtration²

Dissolved oxygen, alkalinity, organic matter, chlorination, polyphosphate, and temperature limitations

Chlorination/Filtration

Use of chlorine liquid or pellets. Requires frequent monitoring and proper water pressure.

Water tank, toilet tank and plumbing have reddish brown or yellow gelatinous slime or sludge present. Odor may be objectionable.

Iron bacteria

Shock chlorination; consider following with continuous chlorination.

Chlorine products must be suitable for drinking water. Method requires long contact time for adequate treatment.

Water containing organic iron is usually yellow or brown color, but may be colorless. Tannins stain water a tea color.

Organic iron and tannins³

Water softener

First, treat for organics (activated carbon). Check for corrosive properties. System must be airtight.

Manganese Greensand/Filtration¹

First, treat for organics. Maintain adequate pressure.

Ozonation

Cost

1. Manganese Greensand: A naturally occurring mineral or manufactured material, treated with potassium permanganate that is capable of removing iron; it absorbs dissolved iron and requires chemical regeneration.
   
2. Catalytic Filtration: A granular filter medium that enhances the reaction between oxygen and iron and then filters the insoluble iron.
   
3. Since organic iron and tannins can slow or prevent iron oxidation, water softeners, aeration systems, and iron filters may not work satisfactorily. One option may be chemical oxidation followed by filtration.
   

[PFerris 76]

My water has a high iron content. To get the iron out, it takes a chlorine injection and time to oxidize the iron to make it clump and stick in the filter. The tempering tank is just another pressure storage tank (accumulator) that is in the line between the normal 20gal pressure tank and the filter. A chemical pump injects chlorine water into the line between the tanks when the well pump runs. It draws from a separate 15gal tank where I put 1 1/2 cup of chlorine bleach to each 5 gal of treat water. The chemical pump is adjustable so the chlorine content can be regulated to oxidize the iron but not leave any chlorine smell in the water. After the filter I have a dual resin tank softener that is never off line to regenerate, it switches tanks seamlessly and regenerates the off line tank without effecting the one that is in use. Single tank softeners use a time clock and regenerate on a schedule with out regard to need. Mine regenerates every 1,000gal. By using the 'red out' salt for the brine tank I can slightly decrease the chlorine just below saturation so there is none in the finished water. The 75 gal tank of pressurized water has the side benefit of available tap water increasing to 95 gal when there is NO electricity! I can run the generator periodically and have water continuously! pressure tanks are cheap and easy to install, just plumb one into the supply line with a check valve on the supply side. The full volume of the tank is then available at the tap when the supply fails. Beats the hell out of storing 5 gal buckets, and it is always fresh.

GOB, Thanks for the info. Question, when you say, "Put a check valve in the supply line." Is that in the supply line to the tank or the supply to the house side?

[G O B 3,516]

PCF

The check valve goes on the supply side before the system. You want to keep the water in the system. There is a second check valve in my system after the softener to protect it from any backflow due to a rupture or an overheated water heater.

 

Chile

There is no chlorine in the treated water. Diluted chlorine is injected before the tempering tank and only when the well pump is running. The injection pump has a variable output and is set to oxidize the iron ALMOST completely. The Softener gets the rest. If my water had any biologic contaminants it would be set higher. I wish I had your write up before I started this project, I had to educate myself and design my own system. The results were worth the effort, the only maintenance on what I built is to change filters, add treat water, and flush everything out annually.

[ChileRelleno 7,071]

Chile

There is no chlorine in the treated water. Diluted chlorine is injected before the tempering tank and only when the well pump is running. The injection pump has a variable output and is set to oxidize the iron ALMOST completely. The Softener gets the rest. If my water had any biologic contaminants it would be set higher. I wish I had your write up before I started this project, I had to educate myself and design my own system. The results were worth the effort, the only maintenance on what I built is to change filters, add treat water, and flush everything out annually.

Yeah, I understood that from your initial & follow up posts, I was commenting on Armory's reply about chlorine & iron.

 

I think I'm going to add the Berkey Flouride & Arsenic filters to my system.

[uzitiger 193]

I remember how the closed Ford Wixom plant used to have groundwater full of iron and sulfur. It was awful and I used to bring a jug of water to work evert day. They switched to Detroit city water during the 2002 shutdown and the water was more palatable after that.

 

I'm glad to see members who have knowledge of water purification. This was a problem in 2003 when the power grid went down and we had no water. Our friends had water and I drove to their house to get water for me and my neighbors. We got water for the toilets from the complex swimming pool. This happened on the hottest day of that year and it was difficult for us.

[Sumsky 115]

I have a Pond on my property, lots of Fish, fresh water clams, craw fish. The big problem will be keeping people away from it if SHTF. I was thinking about getting one of those Hand pumps for my Well just in case electric goes out and I cant use my Pump. Hey, how about using a Fish Tank filter system, that is if you have Power.

Edited March 11, 2012 by Sumsky

[ChileRelleno 7,071]

How do you turn 6000 US gallons of cloudy, and likely semi polluted, creek water into clear & clean drinking water?

 

And look what else Buster Brown brought

[sowhat6565 20]

know you guys are talking about clorine in the water but ive heared that you can add a tablespoon of bleach to 5 gals of water to purifiy it for drinking. any thoughts

[storm6490 2,768]

know you guys are talking about clorine in the water but ive heared that you can add a tablespoon of bleach to 5 gals of water to purifiy it for drinking. any thoughts

 

Woah there cowboy! 1/2 TEAspoon per 5 gallons will kill swamp water and make it drinkable. Let it stand for several hours. At that point you can drink it or put it into a filtration system. I would suggest filtration after the sterilization to remove the chems and particulate. Chlorine aka bleach will severely deplete your body of Iodine which would really suck if you had a nuclear disaster situation!

 

Speaking of Iodine, it too can be used to sterilize water in a pinch, prevent the absorption of radiation from a nuclear power plant disaster and sterilize wounds! Such a great piece of kit. I would like to thank all the fuck stain tweakers for making is a controlled chemical L1. Fucking retards! The tweakers and the DEA!

[storm6490 2,768]

Why not do it in clear glass jars then?

 

The trick is to fill a PET plastic clear bottle half way full. Shake the hell out of it to force oxygen into the water, fill it up and put it on top of your truck or a roof. (Or something HARD) Any surface that can be aimed at the sun. If you have full sun, an 8 hour shift will do the trick. If you have partly sunny, about 48 hours will do. I'd go longer in northern climates. What happens is that heat and UVA exposure from the sun kills the microbes. Using a glass jar will create the heat but silcon glass is far thicker and will filter out the needed UVA leaving the worst microbes to leave you shitting a constant stream of water for days if you live that long.

 

PET plastics when reused or heated up produce DEHA which will cause cancer, reproductive harm and liver failure.

 

Again, this method is only to be used if nothing else can be done. It will fuck you up.

 

Don't take my word for it. A bunch of dudes with big fancy degrees warned us all about it.

[G O B 3,516]

Whatever method you use, you need a supply of drinking water that is safe and SUSTAINABLE!

Water is the FIRST thing that will be in short supply, and the first thing you will die without.

You can live for 3 weeks or more without food.

You will die in days without water.

[lbsrdi 1,078]

Some of the best tasting water I have ever tasted came from a mountain spring. A one min walk up the mountain to the spring. There is even a cup hanging on a branch, been there for 30 years.