BOB A. BOOEY 45 Posted April 15, 2012 Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 I finally got to put some substantial ammo through my Saiga 12 outdoors on Saturday. I had the CSS Low Brass Kit on it and it cycled the WInchester and Federel #7.5 and #8 pretty well. Some FTF with that stuff. What I found particulary disturbing is how my Tapco T6 furniture quite literally fell apart. I realize this stuff is not top of the line or even close to it but until my conversion it fit the bill in the short term. The lower picatinny rail crackED in half, the screws came loose and fell out and the right picatinny rail fell out. I was finding screws all over the ground when I was shooting even when I was tightening the screws. I think this stuff is crap and I would not recommend its purchase. If its not tough enough to handle the pounding from the S12 then perhaps they should stick to AR-15 furniture. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RED333 1,025 Posted April 15, 2012 Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 You had FTF, Fail to Fire? Or FTE, Fail to Eject? Did you use locktight? Yea I took the forend off and now a differnt forend I picked up in WTB here. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mullet Man 2,114 Posted April 15, 2012 Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 Or FTF=Failure To Feed 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BOB A. BOOEY 45 Posted April 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 You had FTF, Fail to Fire? Or FTE, Fail to Eject? Did you use locktight? Yea I took the forend off and now a differnt forend I picked up in WTB here. Feed jam actually where I had trouble racking a round. It was weird. A few FTE's but I had not originally not changed out the springs. Any suggestions from anyone regarding a solid aluminum foreend that will hold my aluminum vertical grip and take a beating? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The_Caged_Bird 474 Posted April 16, 2012 Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 There was a company that recently released a billet aluminum fore-grip that posted up on here. I'd say it was about two or three months ago. There are a few options out there. CSS carries a couple. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChileRelleno 7,071 Posted April 16, 2012 Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 I don't personally know about the Tapco Intrafuse Forearm with rails, which is not the T6, but I've heard it is a POS. But the Tapco T6 (not the T6 Intrafuse, combined pistol grip/stock) collapsible stock did very well on my S12 for at least a thousand rounds. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChileRelleno 7,071 Posted April 16, 2012 Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 (edited) Chaos! http://www.chaosus.c...on&key=TRI_RAIL Mine... The ventilated gas tube handguard is a SKS ventilated handguard. Edited April 16, 2012 by ChileRelleno 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BOB A. BOOEY 45 Posted April 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 I don't personally know about the Tapco Intrafuse Forearm with rails, which is not the T6, but I've heard it is a POS. But the Tapco T6 (not the T6 Intrafuse, combined pistol grip/stock) collapsible stock did very well on my S12 for at least a thousand rounds. Youre right my mistake. I do have the Intrafuse forearm and the T6 stock. The stock worked ok I guess. The forearm was crap. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sniper7 3 Posted April 16, 2012 Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 I have heard the same thing about tapco stuff. The only thing that I had on my S12 that was tapco was the collapsible stock. it works but it was wobbly and no recoil pad. so I put a CTR on it from one of my ARs and I love it! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChileRelleno 7,071 Posted April 16, 2012 Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 Tapco with slip on pad worked well for me. Though I am much happier with my VLTOR AK tube and Emod stock. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
timy 1,185 Posted April 16, 2012 Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 Around 500 rounds through my S12 with the Tapco Intrafuse forearm. The screws for the rails were a bit short, they didn't go all the way through the nuts so I used locktite right off the bat. No issues as of yet. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mullet Man 2,114 Posted April 16, 2012 Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 (edited) Around 500 rounds through my S12 with the Tapco Intrafuse forearm. The screws for the rails were a bit short, they didn't go all the way through the nuts so I used locktite right off the bat. No issues as of yet. I put ALOT of rounds (>500) thru an Intrafuse hand guard as well and never had a problem with it, altho i never installed/used or needed/wanted the rails. What i liked about it was, its a decent looking hand guard (US part for 922r) with an option of installing the rails by the end user. Edited April 16, 2012 by Mullet Man Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The_Caged_Bird 474 Posted April 16, 2012 Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 I put a small AA battery flashlight on my intrafuse rail, and the rail broke and dropped my light on the second drum dump. Intrafuse is shit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mullet Man 2,114 Posted April 16, 2012 Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 I put a small AA battery flashlight on my intrafuse rail, and the rail broke and dropped my light on the second drum dump. Intrafuse is shit. So its the rails that are shit, not the actual hand guard itself? It worked fine for me but like i said, i didnt use the rails, i had no need or use for them. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roachtron 49 Posted April 16, 2012 Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 I kept having failures to feed with the css spring in my gun. It didn't seem to be pushing with enough force to chamber the round. Since I removed it my gun has been 100%. I am running the css puck and an aftermarket gas plug though. Also if you didn't use locktite on your screws be sure to add some. I highly recommend choas rail systems, my titan rail is very well built. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
timy 1,185 Posted April 16, 2012 Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 I put a small AA battery flashlight on my intrafuse rail, and the rail broke and dropped my light on the second drum dump. Intrafuse is shit. So its the rails that are shit, not the actual hand guard itself? It worked fine for me but like i said, i didnt use the rails, i had no need or use for them. Got a G2 flashlight mounted on the left rail and a vertical grip on the bottom of mine and the rails haven't broken. Good batch/bad batch? I don't know. I would prefer aluminum rails but don't think they are available for it. I do know that if the screws fall out of anything I mount on a weapon without locktite I'll blame myself rather than the product. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BOB A. BOOEY 45 Posted April 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 I put a small AA battery flashlight on my intrafuse rail, and the rail broke and dropped my light on the second drum dump. Intrafuse is shit. So its the rails that are shit, not the actual hand guard itself? It worked fine for me but like i said, i didnt use the rails, i had no need or use for them. Yes it is the rails that are shit. The handguard is fine. The forearm screw needs regular tightening though. I kept having failures to feed with the css spring in my gun. It didn't seem to be pushing with enough force to chamber the round. Since I removed it my gun has been 100%. I am running the css puck and an aftermarket gas plug though. Also if you didn't use locktite on your screws be sure to add some. I highly recommend choas rail systems, my titan rail is very well built. I had the opposite actually the original spring was giving me FTF's and that stopped almost entirely when I put the reduced spring in. I was shootin the winchester shit, you know how it is. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eric Pate 478 Posted April 16, 2012 Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 IMHO, On any given firearm ALL screws should be secured with Loktite. Just torqueing them down tight won't do it. The vibration will eventually back them out. This problem is magnified x10 on machineguns. Always use some form of Loktite. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BOB A. BOOEY 45 Posted April 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 IMHO, On any given firearm ALL screws should be secured with Loktite. Just torqueing them down tight won't do it. The vibration will eventually back them out. This problem is magnified x10 on machineguns. Always use some form of Loktite. Thats a great point man. I am most certainly going to follow your advice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roachtron 49 Posted April 16, 2012 Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 I forgot to mention that tapco has a lifetime warranty on most of their products. I would contact them and see how it goes. I'm not sure how good their customer service is but its worth a try. They could replace it and then you would at least have the parts to sell if you wanted. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BOB A. BOOEY 45 Posted April 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 I forgot to mention that tapco has a lifetime warranty on most of their products. I would contact them and see how it goes. I'm not sure how good their customer service is but its worth a try. They could replace it and then you would at least have the parts to sell if you wanted. I would but its not worth it to me. Im not keeping any of this stuff on my S12 after its conversion anyhow. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The_Caged_Bird 474 Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 I've never used locktite and never had a problem with screws loosening up. What I DO have a problem with is polymer rails that basically shatter... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 You can buy sticks of aluminum picatinny rail for ~$10-15/foot. It is pretty easy to cut it to size and bolt it wherever you want. It always floors me when some parts manufacturer or even firearm maker sells a handguard clearly intended to have rails and doesn't included them. A fair number of companies sell a plastic rail kit for $35 or so and the same thing in aluminum for about 75. For a deliberatily universal non specific modular product that can be had in aluminum for <$20.... The whole point of 1919 rail is that it is not unique, that it is interchangeable. The markup is just that, markup. This is a standard cheap to make universal product that has been made for nearly a hundred years, and people still charge and get over 10 times it's market value just by packaging it with a particular product. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roachtron 49 Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 Just trying to be helpful, almost a $100 worth of parts is worth an email to me. Throw them in a the parts bin for a different caliber build or sell them. Hell send the broken stuff to me and I will email them for a replacement. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BOB A. BOOEY 45 Posted April 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 The butt stock is working fine. Its the $40 forearm that sucks and really only the rails at this point. I still have one functioning rail for my vertical grip and my tac light will just have to wait until my conversion. Ill sell em cheap when that happens. I've never used locktite and never had a problem with screws loosening up. What I DO have a problem with is polymer rails that basically shatter... What my friend from Texas said. I couldnt have said it better myself. Polymer rails that hold a vertical grip on an S12? A poor proposition from the get go. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
timy 1,185 Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 I forgot to mention that tapco has a lifetime warranty on most of their products. I would contact them and see how it goes. I'm not sure how good their customer service is but its worth a try. They could replace it and then you would at least have the parts to sell if you wanted. Well, I can say this about their customer service..... When I had a custom wood stock made for my 223 I couldn't find a steel plate other than the trapdoor one (which I didn't want) so I e-mailed them hoping they had a damaged stock that had been sent back. They did, and not only did the woman send me the plate off it, but it was free and so was the shipping. That's outstanding customer service since I wasn't even a customer. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BOB A. BOOEY 45 Posted April 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 I have no doubt that they would gladly replace the first set of crappy polymer rails with some new crappy polymer rails or I could just cut my losses and get something that is quality made, in fact, thats my plan. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BOB A. BOOEY 45 Posted April 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 My unconverted S12 did cycle the cheap stuff effortlessly minus a few hiccups. The CSS Low Brass Kit with the DPH Plug worked great. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Shiner5455 9 Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 Bob I also run an un-converted S-12 with an aftermarket aluminum forearm. It is a great product and with it being aluminum I was able to drill my own holes into it, buy ($10) a single picatinny rail for an AR and place the forearm grip on that I wanted for minimal cash. Hard choice good luck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The_Caged_Bird 474 Posted April 18, 2012 Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 I have no doubt that they would gladly replace the first set of crappy polymer rails with some new crappy polymer rails or I could just cut my losses and get something that is quality made, in fact, thats my plan. That's what I did! I've played the lifetime guarantee bit before. After about the eighth time we replaced my uncle's electric fuel pump in his gas tank, we realized that we could keep throwing shitty (but free) parts on the car OR we could just get the quality product and never worry about it breaking again... 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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