M10-762 review

[Brian M1 50]

Just wanted to do a mini review of my M10-762.

I have run a few hundred rounds through it with ZERO issues of any kind. It came with 1 Tapco smooth side mag (new design of their "intrafuse" type) which worked flawlessly. I also used 2 other recently purchased mags. 1 new steel 20 round Hungarian tanker mag (which worked flawlessly as well), and 1 steel unknown 30 round mag (which fed fine, but was a bit$h to get out. apparently not the same spec as others. Filed on the tab like crazy... but still sticks like glue. Binds up the mag catch release something fierce). The rifle performed flawlessly and cycled Wolf FMJ military classic like it was nothing. The flash hider worked miracles and the rifle had VERY little muzzle rise (felt the same as my Saiga 223). Recoil was next to nil (well...I'm a 12 ga shooter, so ymmv), felt the same as my S223.

The action is rough on my specimen. It works 100%, but is definitely NOT smooth. When cycling it, it feels "gritty". I'm not concerned, as it works. The trigger is great and felt the same as my S223 (both Tapco's).

My overall impression is:

Major kudos: Flash hider rocks. Sight radius was fine (despite being a Draco style front). Hogue grip is EXCELLENT. Rivets all look well done. Barrel looks great inside, clean lands and grooves, nice chroming. Bullet guide is riveted in AND ground FLUSH (you cant even see the rivet on the guide, but you can see the rivet UNDER the trunion). Cool looking parkerizing (thought mine came with scratches all over it). Mag well is fantastic! CNC machined says it all. It fit perfectly and has superb clean edges. WELL done by M+M. I'll never buy a "dremeled" mag well rifle EVER after seeing how clean and precise a CNC job is! Dust cover fits TIGHT. ZERO wiggle and does not budge. Receiver has the "fire" dimple, which makes the lever stop prior to hitting the "safety stop tab". This is nothing major.. it just feels nicer. This rifle just feels ROBUST.

Pans: The quadrail is not my style. It gets HOT fast and the rubber covers slip and slide off when rail gets hot, not to mention its heavy, bulky, and I don't mount accessories. It will be sold or tossed for a K-var standard front handguard. The mag latch is a tad TOO tight. It locks on SUPER tight to the supplied Tapco (but will release when asked), but catches on SOME metal mags to the point where I had to almost whack on it to get it to release. Most steel mags will probably be fine, but I had one that almost didn't come out due to the latch not letting go or moving. The Tapco buttstock did not mate well on my example. It is flush at the lower edge, but 1/16" gap at the upper edge. I removed it, filed the edges, and it's still a no go. I've determined that my rear upper tang has slightly more "droop" than normal, thus it's pushing the stock down slightly. Not a huge deal. Cosmetic. btw.. I like the simple look of the Tapco stock. I have a Kvar on my S223, but this one looks more appropriate on the M10. The RPK rear sight stinks and is completely useless. I can't even SEE it, as it's so small and the notch is too tight. Even if I widened the notch, it's not deep enough either. Adjustable?.. sure. But it's an adjustable joke of a rear sight. Regular AK rears are even better than this thing! It will be replaced with a Krebs Peep. The front sight is VERY mildly canted (front post still fairly centered). And lastly... the stupid dust cover release. It has one with the "top lip" on it, which makes it a PITA to remove the dust cover. Eventually, I'll grind off the "lip" to make it a smooth top button, like Saiga's have.

For my needs.... I'd have been better off buying a Wasr 10/63 and replace wood with synthetic (since I'm a "keep it plain" guy), however... even though I'm going to reverse the "value" of the M10 (un tactical it with plain front handguard and replace the RPK sight), it's worth the extra $ over the wasr just for the precise magwell (can't stress enough how important that is). Also, with AK prices skyrocketing lately... even Wasr's are out of control. I look at it as paying an extra $75-100 for the phenominal magwell. Well worth it IMO.

Here she is (stock) at the moment:

 

Edited October 1, 2012 by Brian M1

[mancat 2,368]

Good review, but.. WASRs really haven't had crappy hand-carved magwells for a few years now. That was mostly a 2008 election-rush thing. They have been done by mill for quite a while now.

 

edit: I made this huge post about how the RPK sight on the M10 doesn't work with the battle sight stetting, then I realized from looking at pictures of the M10, that the RPK rear sight set at 100m does not rest on the battle sight raised boss of the M10 RSB.. So it does range correctly from 100m to 1000m. If you read what I said, forget it, I was wrong.

Edited October 1, 2012 by mancat

[Brian M1 50]

That's good to know (about Wasr's) Mancat! I like the value of Wasr's! I'm a "keep it simple" guy and I'd like to add another x39 in the future and was hoping to find a good Wasr.

 

As for the RPK sight... I hate mine. I find the notch WAY too narrow AND shallow. I could file out with width, but would be of no help since the depth on it sucks as well. It looks really cool... but I can't shoot worth a darn with it.

It's funny you mention the "battle zero" with the M10's RPK... I noticed mine came with the sight at OVER 100m (1). It was ON the 1 (its supposed to be UNDER the 1 line. I thought "hmm... this can't be good. They may have zero'd it incorrectly". Then I looked at the manual and it states, with pictures also, that THAT is where the "zero" is! WTF? That's wrong. I put mine back to UNDER 1 (that's the rearmost notch on mine) and shot it at an indoor 15-18yrd range. It was a couple inches low, so I have good hopes it will actually be on at 27-28yrds (25m). I think the manuals just wrong, but rifle seems sighted ok. They should correct that in the manual.

[mancat 2,368]

Yeah the manual sounds wrong, but who really reads that little thing? I kept mine just for novelty. I usually throw manuals for almost everthing I buy into a big box, just in case.

 

There's always someone looking for an RPK rear leaf.. If you sell it you'll probably get a $10 or $20 for it. The Romanians don't fetch as much as Russian RPK sights.

Edited October 2, 2012 by mancat

[Brian M1 50]

Thanks again for the info Mancat! The RPK issue has led me to yet another issue. I read somewhere that the M10's sight scale is off (nowhere near accurate) and that had me thinking... Is the scale off because it's a "standard" scale leaf (although RPK) but on a shortened sight radius (M10 has the front sight on gas block)?

If this is so, then there's no point in me paying more for a Kreb's, when I'd probably be better off with a non scale adjustable ("standard version") Mojo? I'd rather not pay more for a scale, if it's only for looks (all about function for me).

[TheDarkHorse 216]

I want one of these, but really don't need another x39. I'd trade one of my others, but it's hard to get anyone to give you a fair trade value these days...it's all about making a profit.

I could buy one outright but I'm still holding out for a 16" .308

[mancat 2,368]

Thanks again for the info Mancat! The RPK issue has led me to yet another issue. I read somewhere that the M10's sight scale is off (nowhere near accurate) and that had me thinking... Is the scale off because it's a "standard" scale leaf (although RPK) but on a shortened sight radius (M10 has the front sight on gas block)?

If this is so, then there's no point in me paying more for a Kreb's, when I'd probably be better off with a non scale adjustable ("standard version") Mojo? I'd rather not pay more for a scale, if it's only for looks (all about function for me).

 

The RPK leaf should sit at the same location at the same ranges as the standard sight - except it has no battle setting.

 

AES-10B (RPK) left, WASR right

Set at 500m:

Set at 100m:

Edited October 3, 2012 by mancat

[Brian M1 50]

Mancat, I'm wondering though... can the M10's shorter sight radius cause the leaf ladder scale to be off? Or would it still be pretty much about right, even with the shorter radius? The Krebs looks the part, but I don't want it if the scale will be useless with the shorter sight radius.

[Brian M1 50]

Btw.. I started un "mall ninja-ing" the M10. If anyone has an M10, I can tell you that the K-var (midway sells them under the "arsenal" name) forends fit BEAUTIFULLY. I will say this about the K-var forend/handguards though.. you'd think a high end ($$) forend would have painted front steel lips, but it does NOT. I shot the front lips with a quick spray of Rustoleum Textured Black (Darn good match between the poly and Park finish) on the front steel lips (which were already rusting) and here she is:

 

All that was needed was to shave the "side tabs"(which I actually did with LM tool file, took about 1 min) on the K-var unit, push it in place, and lock it up. Once sprayed (front lip tabs), it fit like a dream. No other mods neccessary. They are (factory) perfect length for this setup. The nextg mod will be when I get my S223 back, as I want to swap my S223 K-var buttstock for this Tapco unit. I'll update pics when that happens. Next mods: K-var stock (stolen off my S223) and Krebs peep sight.

And yes... I know my "recycling" container if full. It goes out tonight :-)

Edited October 5, 2012 by Brian M1

[mancat 2,368]

Nope, 7.62x39 trajectory is dependant on velocity, like almost every other bullet out there, but unlike some smaller calibers, 7.62x39 only varies by about 200fps per 4" of barrel length - not really enough to require unique sight ramp gradients for each barrel length. Romanian AKs in 12", 16" and 23" all have the same ramp gradient.

 

The K-VAR handguards are just made in the same way as standard handguards. I have a couple Bulgarian sets and the steel is all exposed.

Edited October 5, 2012 by mancat

[TheDarkHorse 216]

The rifle looks 100% better Brian!!

That's exactly what I would have done....I'm just not a "rail" type guy. Those handguards look like they belong on there.

Don't be shy with the pictures!!

[evlblkwpnz 3,418]

The sight on the M-xx rifles is difficult to see in low light.

 

I had to clean up the edges of my magwell, clearance the center support to clear Bulgy Circle 10 mags, and I tossed all of the furniture. Also, the barrel threading on one of mine was way out of whack as if there was no TAT used. The threading was most definitely done after the barrel was installed, no doubt about it. Not really a big deal though as I plan to SBR it sooner or later.

 

I installed an AK100 folder on it and it was a pain in the ass. Because of the differing scope rail and rear block rivet pattern, I had to weld up all of the holes and start over. I ended up using a sight rail from a Saiga 12. It turned out nice and doesn't much resemble the original weapon.

 

 

I like it a lot better now

[mancat 2,368]

that's fantastic

 

I think these would look better with a birdcage FH of some sort versus the forked brake that comes on them. Just IMO though.

[evlblkwpnz 3,418]

that's fantastic

 

I think these would look better with a birdcage FH of some sort versus the forked brake that comes on them. Just IMO though.

I agree, I really don't care much for the pokers either. I view it as a heavy thread protector, lol.

I think they would look a lot better with a reflex can. I think I might make one for it in the near future. Maybe after a chop to 12.5" or so.

[Brian M1 50]

I'm not quite happy with how the Kvar handguard fits on mine now. It seemed tight at first, but the lower has a bit of play now. The Wasr's and M10's come with the old style "AKM" lower handguard retainer (no ears), so the bend in the kvar heat shield (keeping it tight to the barrel) slowly works a bit loose (allowing up and down movement that 74 style ears would prevent). Other than an expensive replacement to 74/100 style handguard retainer (with ears), I've come up with a new solution!

I don't rifle mount (nor have front retention for) a cleaning rod, so I'm going to stick a button head bolt through the retainers "rod hole" from the front and place the nut on the inside of the retainer. That way the Kvar handguard "lip" will be trapped between the retainer and the bolt! If neccessary, I'll use nylon bolt covers to adjust the exact fit. I've never heard of this being done, so not sure it will work. There's only one way to find out, though! If it works, It will secure the lower handguard VERY securely and will be an easy/cheap solution, instead of replacing the retainer itself. I'll post pics as soon as I get around to doing this.

 

...different idea (after checking the clearance.. there's no room for a nut on the inside of the retainer with handguard lip in it)... back to the drawing board. Maybe a strong (steel?) pop rivet with the long section inside the retainer? Or a barrel head hex bolt inside retainer, with an acorn nut on the outside? Wouldn't be the prettiest thing (even after blacking), but it would probably work well (and be easily removable)! I'll play around with some ideas, but I think there must be something that would work for this application!

Edited October 7, 2012 by Brian M1

[mancat 2,368]

I think you had a decent idea about inserting a pop rivet into the cleaning rod hole, which would act as a short stub that's about the same thickness as a cleaning rod. A long-necked (3/4"-1" neck) rivet should do it. I doubt it needs to be steel. It's not taking much force, and aluminum won't melt. This would also make it easy to drill out if you decide to remove it.

 

Unfortunately the polymer handguards definitely need a cleaning rod inserted to keep them from moving around, even with a '74 style retainer that's fitted perfectly to the polymer LHG.

Edited October 7, 2012 by mancat

[Brian M1 50]

I think you had a decent idea about inserting a pop rivet into the cleaning rod hole, which would act as a short stub that's about the same thickness as a cleaning rod. A long-necked (3/4"-1" neck) rivet should do it. I doubt it needs to be steel. It's not taking much force, and aluminum won't melt. This would also make it easy to drill out if you decide to remove it.

 

Unfortunately the polymer handguards definitely need a cleaning rod inserted to keep them from moving around, even with a '74 style retainer that's fitted perfectly to the polymer LHG.

 

Mancat, you just gave me an AWESOME idea!! Rather than fiddle with the retainer, I'm going to cut a short section of 3/16" rod (steel or aluminum) and JB Weld it into the cleaning rod channel in the handguard itself! I'll measure and cut the rod so about 1/16" pokes out of the front of the retainer. This way the handguard will fit tight as if a rod were in it, securing it, but there will be no rod visible (except the nub sticking out the front)!! Thanks!

[mancat 2,368]

I don't think it will hold, but your call. The rivet sounds like a better idea; more secure and would be easier to clean up/undo.

Edited October 10, 2012 by mancat

[Brian M1 50]

Mancat, I've opted against the rod idea. I also don't think a rivet will do it either (I don't see enough room inside for the rivet flange). I'm thinking of filling the space between the heat shield and grip with high temp epoxy (to, at least, get rid of the upward flex, which causes the handguard to ride up) or high temp silicone. Any thoughts on this or suggestions? I REALLY like the k-var handguard, but am not happy with it not being solidly mounted (yet not going to remove the gb just to swap to a '74 retainer). Suggestions?

[whitetrashrn 74]

Maybe Bend a small peice of the steel on the end of the handguard at a 90 degree angle and cut a little slot in the

retainer with the dremil cut off wheel. The bent out peice will slide into the slot.. Maybe???

[gunfun 3,931]

an empty .22lr will fill that hole nicely. Or at least it did for me when I was addressing a somewhat similar issue.

 

BTW thanks for the review. A friend bought one of these recently, and I was curious to see if he got ripped off. Knowing that it has a bullet guide and whatnot makes that simpler.

[Brian M1 50]

I wound up taking the K-var handguard off, filling the void between the heatshield and grip with Quicksteel (in the front), then a put a blob of the quicksteel on TOP of the heatshield (again, in the front), and reinstalled it (with saran wrap around the barrel) exactly as tight at I wanted it. Let it sit for about 1/2 hr... then removed the grip for the night. The next day I reinstalled and that puppy was a PERFECT fit (basically custom fit!). ROCK SOLID. I fired off 130+ rounds at the range and noticed it stank quite a bit at first (epoxy cooking?)... but held tight and solid none the less. I'm happy with it now! Not sure how long the quickweld will hold up to the heat... but worst thing that can happen is it falls out, or mushes up, making the handguard the same as it was prior.

 

 

Fitted (after hardening and reinstalled):

 

And assembled, after 130+ round workout. Proper spacing between upper/lower and rock solid with ZERO play:

Edited November 22, 2012 by Brian M1

[Paulry 50]

I have this same problem. AK74 hand rest and an AK47 retainer (bolt on) I've just lived with it and now it looks like a shim between the barrel and the hand guard heat shield is good to go??? What about the rear?? did you have any movement there??

Thanks and nice AK!

[Brian M1 50]

I have this same problem. AK74 hand rest and an AK47 retainer (bolt on) I've just lived with it and now it looks like a shim between the barrel and the hand guard heat shield is good to go??? What about the rear?? did you have any movement there??

Thanks and nice AK!

 

I also added two spots of Quiksteel to the rear of the heatshield to keep it (heatshield) rigid. That combined with filling the front void UNDER the heatshield and the blob on TOP front of the heatshield make that thing ROCK SOLID (you have to do both over AND under the heatshield or it will still flex). 100's of rounds later, no issues whatsoever (and zero effect on accuracy). I'll never put up with a sloppy handguard again and definitely do this mod again. Highly recommended.

Edited December 12, 2012 by Brian M1

[ResponsiveResolve 7]

The sight on the M-xx rifles is difficult to see in low light.

 

I had to clean up the edges of my magwell, clearance the center support to clear Bulgy Circle 10 mags, and I tossed all of the furniture. Also, the barrel threading on one of mine was way out of whack as if there was no TAT used. The threading was most definitely done after the barrel was installed, no doubt about it. Not really a big deal though as I plan to SBR it sooner or later.

 

I installed an AK100 folder on it and it was a pain in the ass. Because of the differing scope rail and rear block rivet pattern, I had to weld up all of the holes and start over. I ended up using a sight rail from a Saiga 12. It turned out nice and doesn't much resemble the original weapon.

 

M10 project.jpg

M10 project 2.jpg

 

 

 

I like it a lot better now

 

 

Great Job on this...top notch work. My question is...Did you just redo the rear and middle hole on the scope rail? Looks like the front scope rail hole matches up? Any advise on getting the rail level?