bmfm64 2 Posted December 29, 2013 Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 Has anyone repaired a gas block that was over "D" 'd? Mine has been filed back into the groove between the threads and the area where the gas hole is. Seems as though they can't be found in the aftermarket. I'm thinking of JB welding it and then filing it back to where it needs to be? Anyone have a better idea? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Billybobf 50 Posted December 29, 2013 Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 Wouldn't think that would be a problem? Mine goes pretty close to the threads Quote Link to post Share on other sites
poolingmyignorance 2,191 Posted December 29, 2013 Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 Got a picture of the damage? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bmfm64 2 Posted December 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 I will post a pic when I get home. It's not far into the groove but enough the gas plug isn't making a seal I don't think. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bmfm64 2 Posted December 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 Here's a pic showing the "D". From what I've read there needs to be a ring above the groove for the plug to seal against? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mullet Man 2,114 Posted December 29, 2013 Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 From what I've read there needs to be a ring above the groove for the plug to seal against? Fallacy. That ring or groove, regardless if someone has filed into it or not, always fills with carbon, debris, powder etc. Which means one thing...there is no gas seal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jdtravers 637 Posted December 29, 2013 Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 That lip does not seal! It is the threads that act as the seal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bmfm64 2 Posted December 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 Sorry took a minute to figure out picture posting on this forum. So this is ok? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mullet Man 2,114 Posted December 29, 2013 Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 Sorry took a minute to figure out picture posting on this forum. So this is ok? What is your reasoning behind thinking it needs repaired or "isn't sealing"? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YOT 3,743 Posted December 29, 2013 Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 That looks alright. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bmfm64 2 Posted December 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 What is your reasoning behind thinking it needs repaired or "isn't sealing"? Gun won't run for sh!t so I'm trying anything at this point. Guess I'll move on from here and see what else I can figure out. I'll start another thread to explain what I've got going on. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YOT 3,743 Posted December 29, 2013 Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 What is your reasoning behind thinking it needs repaired or "isn't sealing"? Gun won't run for sh!t so I'm trying anything at this point. Guess I'll move on from here and see what else I can figure out. I'll start another thread to explain what I've got going on. How about reading threads that have already been written??? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Billybobf 50 Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 I'm not seeing where that has been modified? Am I missing something? I see ports in the barrel. And a factory round port on the gas block? I do see where his piston/puck needs to be knocked out and cleaned IMO. That might help a lot. Who makes the prod/probe/gauge kit? I want a set of those to clean my ports, thought about a torch cleaning kit and bending them to fit inside Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YOT 3,743 Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 What I'm seeing is a railed hand guard that probably isn't allowing proper gas block opperation. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Billybobf 50 Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 I have decided a simple test for my puck/piston! If I use the bho or hold the bolt back, then shake the gun up and down, I should be able to hear a crisp clunk of the piston hitting the valve and gas block back and forth, if its soft slow delayed or inconsistent it's time to clean. As a side note I found out my gun is a four port, just one is at the far front of my gas block, not blocked tho Quote Link to post Share on other sites
beefcakeb99 572 Posted December 31, 2013 Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 It should run fine even if it doesn't clink every time. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Billybobf 50 Posted December 31, 2013 Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 Probably, but if its clean it will run better. It will switch better with clean threads and its a few minutes after a day shooting Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mullet Man 2,114 Posted December 31, 2013 Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 (edited) What I'm seeing is a railed hand guard that probably isn't allowing proper gas block opperation. I'd have to agree with that, like I said in his other thread. While a clean puck will aid in cycling, dollars to donuts its not the root cause. Edited December 31, 2013 by Mullet Man Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bmfm64 2 Posted December 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 Thanks for the input guys, I will be back on this on Thursday as I'm out town. I'll pull the handrail and put it all back to stock and start swapping parts and see what happens. I'll update as I go. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bobabuee 29 Posted January 4, 2014 Report Share Posted January 4, 2014 from what I see in picture might be that gas block is canted it should be even on both sides get picture view straight on view for us 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Inspector 12 37 Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 I know that the S 12 seems to be the tinkerers friend and many have had good success working on their guns but problems like you are experiencing is one of the reasons I have decided not to fuss with mine. It will be headed to JT Engineering next week for his "Saiga reliability process". Jack has been a wealth of knowledge and his experience building Saigas makes it an easy decision to have him do the work on mine. While I have enjoyed working on it doing the conversion, it just seems like a good investment to utilize Jack's services rather than run the risk of messing up my Saiga. While I may not have the hands on experience of doing my own work, I will have a functioning S 12 that will come home running on 1 1/8 ounce 1200 FPS low base loads. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.