Wagnikov 186 Posted May 20, 2014 Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 Light the fires! Let'r rip boys! What do you think? If someone wants a how-to I took enough pics. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sunnybean 939 Posted May 20, 2014 Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 More photos please. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mullet Man 2,114 Posted May 20, 2014 Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 What'd I miss? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wagnikov 186 Posted May 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 (1)drill through latch to access backside of lower pin (2)k-nock the pins out (3)re-machine holes to proper angle (dremel and large cylinder stone) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sunnybean 939 Posted May 20, 2014 Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 Did you loose any length? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mullet Man 2,114 Posted May 20, 2014 Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 Oh I see.... much better. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wagnikov 186 Posted May 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 (4)cut to stock tubes to new angle (5)redrill new holes and install pins (6)*optional* weld tubes to ensure unlimited skull crushing ability. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wagnikov 186 Posted May 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 Max 1/4" shorter, but I like a shorter stock. So nbd to me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sunnybean 939 Posted May 20, 2014 Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 Max 1/4" shorter, but I like a shorter stock. So nbd to me. Sweet! Strong work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wagnikov 186 Posted May 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 My original pins worked loose in the factory configuration. So I chose to be wiggle free. It folds and locks up all the same. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
garnaz 215 Posted May 20, 2014 Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 Looks good. Will have to do this and remove that stupid cheek riser 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wagnikov 186 Posted May 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 Did a mod on the check riser, started a post about it. But yes I grew it's awkward. But it looks SOO cool!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jabara572 3 Posted May 20, 2014 Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 My original pins worked loose in the factory configuration. So I chose to be wiggle free. It folds and locks up all the same. Can you come weld my trunnion? Lol... very nice work, I like it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wagnikov 186 Posted May 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 I offered in your thread! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wagnikov 186 Posted May 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 I was in a rush and didn't hook up the remote on the tig. With that you can throttle the amps, and instead of pulling out (which causes all the issues we have been discussing) when you near the end of the weld you just pinch it down and it looks like the millennium falcon as it disappears! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rockmup 12 Posted May 20, 2014 Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 You have a pm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
warthog984 1 Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 I thought about doing this to make the length of pull shorter. So the pins were coming loose for you? Is that the main reason for you removing the tubes from the foldable hinge? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wagnikov 186 Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 No, I had thought about just tig welding to eliminate the wiggle. I know it's angled to line up the sights, but it never really worked for me. I believe the stock in line with the bore is the best arrangement for reduced muzzle rise and quicker target acquisition. So I reworked it. I had hoped to take the cheek riser off and fix that too but I didn't feel like removing the detent rivet. It is only retained into the thin tubing. So I fixed it another way. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 I DO love it! I have been wanting to do this to my folder, but just haven't had time to mess with it. I want mine to end up the exact length of a WARSAW and the cheek riser will be history. Home sweet home! 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wagnikov 186 Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 At times I wonder if I should have got a square-back. But these folders are military tough. That's not marketing bs. I learned that from suspending the gun on both ends and sitting on the middle while I welded it. I'm 235# min. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
garnaz 215 Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 I have one to be done. Pm if interested and price? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
saltydecimator 482 Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 can i get a side x side? im a lil slow tonight (ok a lot slow....) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wagnikov 186 Posted May 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 can i get a side x side? im a lil slow tonight (ok a lot slow....) Are you still playing "one of these things is not like the other one!" Lmao. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wagnikov 186 Posted May 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 Better? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gregomega 929 Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 I like the inline look. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wagnikov 186 Posted May 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 I think a poll is in order! Lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
beefcakeb99 572 Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 I like the inline look.same here Quote Link to post Share on other sites
warthog984 1 Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 No, I had thought about just tig welding to eliminate the wiggle. I know it's angled to line up the sights, but it never really worked for me. I believe the stock in line with the bore is the best arrangement for reduced muzzle rise and quicker target acquisition. So I reworked it. I had hoped to take the cheek riser off and fix that too but I didn't feel like removing the detent rivet. It is only retained into the thin tubing. So I fixed it another way. Man I am slow. I was looking at your other post about removing the stock tube and just noticed in this post that you drilled a hole for the lower pin to punched through. I was thinking you drilled the lower pin out, thus needing a new pin. My bad. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wagnikov 186 Posted May 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2014 I tried to label the steps (1) (2) etc. I'm not very at times I know, and I have a dry sense of humor, so it all can be very confusing sometimes. I try to reread and make sure it's coherent. Weirdly it all makes sense inside MY head. Lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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