FSB pins on Saiga

[imarangemaster 315]

My 2013 produced IZ132 has FSB pins instead of the dimples of the earlier ones.  How hard are they to get out, and do they come out left to right like AR FSB taper pins?  I am going to thread the barrel for the Tactical Tri-delta brake and crush washer I am getting.  If it is to much of a pain, I will use a cut  off wheel on a dremel instead.

 

Thanks in advance.

[forsaken352 235]

Everything you'll need to know for threading. It should not be too difficult to punch the pins. Don't go overboard, but don't pussy tap it, either. Just a few sharp smacks with a proper sized punch should free it. Should be left to right if I remember correctly. The rest is in the link.

 

http://dinzagarms.com/downloads/308_fsb_install.pdf

[Inebriated 31]

Drive left-to-right. They aren't tapered, but that's how I've had luck. Use quality punches, as well. I've broken two of those blue-handled ones that you see at WalMart working on AK's... Also, a very sturdy base is important if you get pins that are a bear. 

 

As for threading... it's straightforward, plenty of videos and whatnot, but get a friend. It is so much easier to have the barrel vertical and loosely clamped in a vice with soft jaws, and a friend holding the receiver. 

[imarangemaster 315]

Thanks

 

I have threaded Saigas before, but had to cut the barrel shroud with a dremel, because of the dimples they used before.  I have also cut off the FSB and used a 24mmm 74 brake, before.  I don't want to go that route, however, because I just want to mount the Tri-Delta barake.

[Protectandserve 6]

I'm still waiting to do this on mine as well.  I need to swap the trigger parts first, then the FSB and add a brake.  Then I can finally run normal mags after having my armorer add a bullet guide.  Still undecided on what route I want to go on the new FSB and brake though.

[imarangemaster 315]

I really like the compact tri-delt brake and standard FSB.  Thread die and Tat runs $40, brake $30.  That is less than a 74/103 24MM FSB alone.  Plus it allows a wide variety of muzzle devices.  The 74 24mm brakes really stick out there, and do not work as well as the Tri-delta.

[Inebriated 31]

I'm partial to the Venom FSB/GB combo myself. Not super traditional, but it makes the gun handle so well, and in my shooting/training/banging the gun around, it's holding up as well as any other.

 

$100 though, and you still have to buy the threading tools and your brake. I will say, however, that the ease of installation of it (since it isn't press-fit) is worth the added expense to my lazy ass lol

Edited September 9, 2014 by Inebriated

[Spacehog 2,218]

My 2013 produced IZ132 has FSB pins instead of the dimples of the earlier ones.  How hard are they to get out, and do they come out left to right like AR FSB taper pins?  I am going to thread the barrel for the Tactical Tri-delta brake and crush washer I am getting.  If it is to much of a pain, I will use a cut  off wheel on a dremel instead.

 

Thanks in advance.

Drive left-to-right. They aren't tapered, but that's how I've had luck. Use quality punches, as well. I've broken two of those blue-handled ones that you see at WalMart working on AK's... Also, a very sturdy base is important if you get pins that are a bear. 

 

As for threading... it's straightforward, plenty of videos and whatnot, but get a friend. It is so much easier to have the barrel vertical and loosely clamped in a vice with soft jaws, and a friend holding the receiver.

 

Let me know how it goes. I could not get those pins to move what so ever on the '13 7.62 model. I destroyed two heavy duty nail countersinking punches just trying to get them to move before finishing them with normal punch. That is the first time I have ever bent or broken one of those. For now I just cut back the shroud and threaded. A bulgy FSB will have to wait. Definitely let us know how it goes.

[imarangemaster 315]

I think I am just going to cut it back with a dremel cut off wheel.  My FSB is perfect. and the front sight is perfectly centered in the FSB, and it shoots dead nuts on.  I don't want to mess with that!  I use a hose clamp around the shroud as an easy guide and stop to keep the cut straight.  I do one side (the one without the screw adjuster, then rotate the clamp, and cut the other side.  I'l finish it with a safe side file.

[Mike-4 0]

What size hose clamp are you going to use?

[imarangemaster 315]

Got one out of the shop in the back yard.  About 1/3" wide and opens to about 3/4 inch diameter.  I'll post pics when I use it.  Maybe Sunday or Monday.

[imarangemaster 315]

Here is the clamp on the muzzle shroud:   You use the front edge of the clamp as a true edge for the dremel cutoff wheel.  You start on one side, and do about 200 degrees of the radius.  Then you rotate the clamp 180 degrees, and cut the other 160 degrees.  It works awesome.  When you have cut almost completely through the shroud, use a small pipe wrench to twist it loose.

 

 

Edited September 14, 2014 by imarangemaster

[imarangemaster 315]

Cut off the shroud using the clamp as a guide and a dremel cut off wheel, then threaded it 14x1MM LH.  Tried the Tactical Tri-Delta brake on for size, but still waiting on the crush washer....

 

 

 

 

Additional:  When threading, remember to keep it well oiled, and turn no more than 1/8 to 1/4 turn, then back off untill you hear the "snick" of the cut thread meytal popping off.  Also, the TAT has to be backed off a little as you go, or it will bind against the face of the muzzle.

Edited September 14, 2014 by imarangemaster