BrutalGardener

I'm sorry, but what plastic? I'm holding an Ace skeleton stock in my hands right now and there sure is not any plastic parts on it. It's all solid aluminum. Also, this Ace stock was $5 cheaper and unlike the DPH, came with a 1" recoil pad.

Any AK mag should work. I would imagine that Tapco mags are not up to military specs though. The best polymer mags that you can get are the Bulgarian "Circle 10" ones.

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Bump! Where are the range reports, people?

OK, this just made my next conversion (my first 308) plan a bit more complicated. Had planned to use a Krebs modified safety with the Dinzag modified trigger group. Would it be easier just use a Tromix group with that safety? Just file some material off the Krebs safety lever's tab, until in clears the elevated trigger leg on Dinzag's trigger. That's what I plan on doing when I get a Krebs safety for my S308.

NO. The only "drop-in" trigger for the S308 is the Dinzag one. It's modified in order to fix all of the S308's specific issues, such as a wider trigger hole and a very short safety lever tab.

Mine required a lot of "fitting A" and "fitting B". Took about half an hour and removing quite a bit of material to get done. I did read the instructions very carefully and watched the video too. It was probably a bit harder than usual to fit, because of that thick coat of Duracoat on my receiver. The drum does lock into place and sits in there very snuggly now, so I'm happy.

Actually, there are no Arsenal SGL rifles in .223; there are only the 7.62x39 mm (SGL2x series) and the 5.45x39 mm (SGL3x series). The only manufacturer of Saiga rifles is IzhMash, Russia. Plenty of American shops do Saiga rifle pistol grip conversions (restorations) and modifications though.

Bear ammo rocks! I get sub 2.5" 100 yard groups with Brown Bear HPs and used a Brown Bear SP for clean, one chest shot kill of a deer. Never had any failures or problems with Bear ammo.

You should be OK if you stick to 10 round (or less) mags. I don't believe that a bipod is considered to be one of the "evil" features.

I recall reading that, because v21 is basically a Vepr knock-off, you can use Vepr stocks with some minor fitting.

Some guy here recently posted about destroying the axis pins on his S308 by trying to drill them out. Man, we are just lucky that these are AKs that we are dealing with here. They are pretty hard to ruin.

Mine doesn't seem to rattle, any way. I guess I'm fine then.

As the topic says, my S308 came without the standard spring washer that sits over the back of the gas tube. As far as I understand, this thingy is designed to hold the gas tube in place more securely. So, if this a big deal? Can I ordered a replacement AK gas tube spring washer from somewhere? Thanks.

Don't they always have the two digit manufactured year printed under the IzhMash logo on the left side of the receiver, kinda in between the magwell and the SN?

I used the DupliColor 500 Degree Engine Enamel myself. The paint looks good and seems to stick just fine (for the most part), but I'm having an issue with it coming off a bit from where the weld spots were. It could be because I didn't grind down/filed the spot welds flush enough or because the paint doesn't stick to that weld material as well as it does to the rest of the receiver metal.

You should be fine with the Dinzag FCG. My problem was before I installed the Dinzag one and was using an FCG that hasn't been modified to account for all of the S308 specific "issues". I wonder if you properly installed that washer that comes with the Dinzag trigger, in order to prevent the trigger from moving from side to side? That washer is supposed to sit right next to the trigger, on the RIGHT side and stick out of the trigger hole from the bottom of the receiver a bit. The hammer should clear it when pushed all the way down, because Dinzag removes material off the right side of the hamm

I haven't done anything with the holes yet, I'm going to get some nylon plugs to pop in them for now. The trigger guard is a DIY #2 from Mississippi Arms. It is a bolt on. The nylon plugs do work very well. They blend right in. What kind of paint did you use to refinish the bottom?

Ouch! I can see how this would be confusing, if this is your first Saiga conversion, with all the major conversion guides mentioning drilling out the pins and the 308 being the only one without the extra two pins.

Took her out shooting again yesterday. Got some Brown Bear FMJs from a major online shop earlier in the week. Cost a little over $7 a box after shipping, while the cheapest stuff locally is Silver Bear for $12 a box. The same store sells Brown Bear 7.62x39 for $8 a box, has a PSL for $900 and an SGL20 for $1000. Almost everything there is over the retail price. Bought my S12 from them in the summer for $700. Nice, friendly people though. Any way, the rifle ejected very weakly in the beginning, with the empty cartridges falling right by me on the bench. One empty cartridge even got stuck b

Well, this rifle had quite a few wear marks and bad FSB cant. In order to zero the irons at 100 yards, I had to move the front sight almost all the way to the right. Looks a bit "ghetto". Hope that makes you feel better about your own rifle.

I have an SGL21 with the standard K-Var polymer stock and a PK-AS scope. I don't get a very good cheek weld with this set up. Can any one recommend some kind of a slip on cheek rest that would fit this stock well and won't look too "ghetto"? Thanks.

Congrats on completing the conversion. Looking good. What did you do with the old triger axis holes? Also, is that a RAM bolt-on trigger guard?

You are obviously not dumb. It takes a smart person to admit that they are dumb. Truly dumb people usually think that they are smart. You are correct about the soft-points; they offer a good compromise between the penetration of FMJs and the expansion of HPs. This is why they are typically used for medium to large game hunting, where you want expansion, but also want to be able to get through the thick hides and tough bones. As far as the tight fit, is anything preventing the hammer from being pushed ALL the way down? I had that problem when I installed a non-Dinzag trigger and used a wa

What do they mean by modifying the hammer and what does "some milling required to fit" mean? The unmodified Tapco trigger group needs some material filed and polished off, in order to fit into a Saiga (clear its bolt-hold-open lever). For Saiga 308, some modifications are needed even with a Tromix modified trigger group. A lot of people choose the trigger modified by Dinzag Arms for their Saiga 308 conversions: http://www.dinzagarms.com/misc_parts/fcg.html It's pricey, but it's already modified to account for all the Saiga 308 specific issues and drops right in. All other trigger group