JDeere7296

Thanks Jess for the pictures that helped greatly. Kinda curious, I wonder if Parabellum designed this on purpose to fit both AK and saiga12

Well that answer's that question....OK, thanks for the info Tony! Guess I'm back to square one.

Thanks, I just looked them up. I'm going to e-mail them and see if they know if it would fit the S12. If it does I will probabaly do that, Thanks!!

Thanks for the idea Jess! I actually didn't think of that as I just assumed that a non-saiga12 cover wouldn't fit but it may work. I'll look into that, thanks again.

Hey guys! Long story short I'm in need of a new top cover (dust cover) for my saiga 12. I wanted to have a rear HK sight welded to the dust cover. I took it to a friend of mine and long story short he got it too hot and melted through the cover. He felt bad and tried to fix it but it's beyond repair I think. Anyway, anyone know where I can find a new one?

OK, good, I didn't know that....

MODS - move if you like, I started to post in off topic but thought it pretained to the shotgun section. Hey guys! You may already be aware of the site, but there is a russian site much like this one with a section on Saiga shotguns, I put the link below. http://talks.guns.ru/forumtopics/43.html You can download GoogleChrome and it has a built in translator.....I've been reading some of the posts and it's very interesting to read some of the issues and fixes they are having over there, plus what type of stuff they are using on their 12's. Plus it's cool to see what's going on

Have also heard that about WD-40 among other things, although we used it growing up to clean our guns pretty much all the time.... I agree a blued Saiga would be nice, although not a combat finish, but lets face it.....how many of us actually use our saiga for hard use. If I were you and if I blued one, I would go with wood furniture, maybe a laminate or nice grained wood. That would definately make the gun stand out......I guess it depends on the gunsmith and the blueing he uses, some blueing jobs look almost black, and some look a deep blue. I think a deep blue color and wood furnitur

Mine was like yours, ran buck and slugs fine, but light loads were FTE's some. If you are any mechanically inclined you can open the gas ports yourself, or quite possibly your gas block may be blocking one or more of the ports partially. Both of these fixes are easy to do. I've done both because my gas block was canted left which totally blocked one port. Mine now is 100%. I did notice some light marks on the trunion (just enough to take finish off trunion but no metal deformation) but used the gunfixer plug to dial the gas down slightly and I haven't noticed anymore new marks. If yo

I was having the same problems, mine was a 3 port also.......the port were always fairly clean, but I was still having FTE so I took the gas block off and re-drilled the three to 3/32 and enlarged the opening in the gas block to make sure none were covered, and also corrected a slight cant in the gas block too...... It runs everything with no problems now.....I guess any buildup in the orginal 3 ports was stopping just enough gas. Hope this helps!!!

If your main spring leg has slipped off and the spring isn't reseting with enough tension, it will cause the hammer to hit too lightly on the firing pin. This will cause a mark on the primer but it doesn't have enough force to ignite the primer. As others have said this may be causing the trigger issue as well.

Yeah, after looking at it, I think this is what is happening...... I think I'll have to do some sort of stop on it, I can push the lever up pretty far......it would be my luck I'd trip and fall and blow my leg off or something!!! Thanks for the input guys!!! Andy

So this happens because of the design of the FCG and the dust cover is what prevents this in normal operation?

OK found a pic to better explain.......this is NOT my pic, just one I found since I don't have access to my gun right now. The red part (bottom edge) of safety is hitting the trigger at the (blue) point which is causing it to release the hammer. It's causing the trigger itself to move backward as if it was being pulled normally.

A tromix modified tapco from CSS.... I doubt it's a problem with the trigger group itself, I'm not sure. The bottom edge of the safety (the part that CSS states may have to be filed on, which I didn't have to by the way) as it rotates hits the hammer and causes it to mover forward....it's like the safety is too close to the trigger group. I don't see how this is possible though, there is only one way that the group and safety can be installed since the axis pin holes don't allow for any movement forward or backward.

OK!! Did my conversion last week, used a typical modified (not by me) trigger group. Did the conversion step by step, everything works great! Found out that Saftey overtravels too far.....I searched and found this was a common issue so no worries on that. But, before I found this was common issue I was trying to figure if I had done something wrong, so I took off the dust cover to see how everything was moving as I pulled the lever up and down. Of course, my gun was unloaded and no mag inserted, but as I was pulling the safety up it tripped the trigger causing the hammer to hit the

I would just JB weld it on there! It's not that critical to have it welded on....the JB ought to stay on. It sounds like the screw isn't tightening enough onto the charging handle before it is bottoming out the threads......

If I remember correctly the Winchester Ranger line of ammo is designed with lower power/fps so that the projectile(s) in the case of 12ga is less likely to go through walls, objects, etc and hit un-intended targets. The Ranger shells probably don't have enough power to reliably cycle the saiga 12. This happens in loads that are under powered like some of the lighter bird shot loads. You can read the numerous threads on how to make your shotgun reliably shoot these type of shells....

My gallery ahhh, its not in the bend area its actually on the leg itself...i see where its supposed to go...thanks alot, if i wouldnt have asked i would have cut it in the wrong place... thanks to you both... Sure! Actually you can do it either way.......I actually put the notch in the bend itself and then bent the leg to the spring to fit in the bend.....may have been overkill, but I just wanted to make sure it wasn't coming off!!

I don't know know about the tang or the safety since I haven't tackled that part of the conversion yet. I would think that your initial cut on the tang wasn't exactly flush or you may have sanded a bit much off the top. For 1/32 or 1/16 I wouldn't worry with it, but that's me. I attached a picture of a modified BHO, you may be able to tell from the pic where to modify yours for the spring. I just put a small notch where the little leg bends, this let the spring sit low enough that it won't slip out. In the pic the leg is facing away from you, it would be toward the bottom of the

Does anyone know what thread size the of the bolt that is used to attach grip with the tromix DIY trigger guard? I need a longer screw than what came with the guard to attach the grip I have and don't know the size/pitch to get. Thanks in advance! Andy

For $30 I think I would just go ahead and get the tapco trigger........It would be tragic it you did install the auto FCG without the sear and you were still in violation of NFA rules.....or in the very least, even if you weren't in violaion of any NFA rules and you got some agent who doesn't know and gives you a hard time about it. $30 is a small price to pay now instead of the headache and $$$ later to get this cleared up with the gov! Just my .02

I'll take the SAW grip please! IM sent

Welcome to the forum! As WaffenSchmied said, there isn't much info on here about the Vepr 12. All the info I have found about shell specification says 12,76mm. Molet's own website specifies this and a couple of other websites also specify the 76mm length. If the Vepr 12 is like the Saiga 12 then you may be able to use the shorter 67,5mm with some adjustments to the gun. There maybe someone on here who has experience with this that may chime in but from what I found it all sugguest the 3" shell because of the greater pressure needed to operate the gas system. Hope this helps!

Also awaiting preorder info. Cameron, please let us know when! I just bought MBUS, but will definately be swaping those out for your new sights!!! Congrats on another great product!!!