sailor

Because of the (remote) possibility of a critical functional part breaking, like firing pin or recoil spring, I just today ordered from KVAR an AK-74 bolt head repair kit, with firing pin (and ejector for 5.45, not 7.62 - I will try to modify it to work)and pin and spring, plus a separate AK-47/AK-74 recoil spring. They offer all you will need.

I just ordered from KVAR the bolt head repair kit for the AK-74, and a seperate AK-47/AK-74 recoil spring. I already have the swap-out disconnector spring spare, so think that covers the most suspect "breakage" parts. I will have to play with the 5.45 ejector, to see if I can mod it to function properly. As to proper storage lubrication, I like that Vasoline idea - that stuff seems to be eternally inert. For everyday "keep it sliding", I like white lithium grease, as long as I don't have to drag the rifle in the sand.

Nalioth - good references. More in Wikipedia than I realized. Anyone know anything about the Centurion 39 as to performance and cost?

I don't know how mass purchases normally work, but I would expect that a factory (expecially out of country, that needs special permits) would only do business with a licensed importing company - that is who we need to impress with a market nitch - it is all about buying and selling for a profit. Worth a try to get one of our regular suppliers interested, but I'm sure they need to be sure of a reasonable sales volume to even consider it.

Is this the same as the Century Arms "Centurion 39" (in 7.62x39) they are pushing? Claimed to be entirely USA built. I've only seen a sales blurb, so don't know much about it. Better info would be appreciated.

my762buzz - Bravo! you said it just right. You are also a font of knowledge for us not so enlightened. Good to have some working info, as the commercial suppliers of parts don't seem to realize how hard it is to come up with the correct replacement parts for a Saiga. The parts listings are so poorly described, usually not related to a Saiga, as to leave most of us wondering what is the correct part.

My only recommendation is to do the full conversion. As many have noted, Saiga is an AK with modifications for import purposes. The worst is the extra trigger linkage - you will appreciate a "clean" trigger pull. As to the rest of the rifle, this seems to be a hobby paradise - go to the pictures sticky at the top of this site, there are a wealth of ideas there.

Good question, good info. I have been pondering getting some stand-by spares, but hard to figure what is the "right" fit for a Saiga 7.62x39, as most spares are listed as AK-47, or AK-74, or Bulgarian or East German or ??? I wrote an email to KVAR technical today, with just that question. There are single items, and kits - all at reasonable cost, but the question of what really fits, and safely, is the question. An earlier thread also covers this question, and has some good info and photos.

I don't know the answer, just looking for someone that does. I'm going by the Saiga-12 922r foreign parts count, where the theaded barrel (for a choke, not the choke itself) counts as an extra foreign part, where the unthreaded barrel does not. Sounds goofy, but then, the whole idea is goofy - as though a U.S. stamp on a part somehow makes an operational difference. My concern is that none of us get caught in a legal hassle over something as dumb as a threaded v. non-threaded barrel. I guess we need a lawyer to chime in, with some legal expertise.

A US made MB (I don't use a flash hider) doesn't count, as it doesn't replace a foreign part (same as a pistol grip doesn't count against foreign parts). The threads are another matter - when physically covered (shroud), no issue, but once exposed, I consider the threads raise the Saiga 7.62x39 to 15 (not 14) foreign parts - but I don't really know that for a fact. The BATFE being who and what they are, I do want to be "safe", not sorry.

I haven't a clue about the gas tube vent holes, but do be careful about putting holes in the Bottom of the HG. You don't want any barrel heat coming down on your hand. I put a couple of small holes in the bottom, but way forward of where my hand rests, and added welding cloth under the barrel. I also have plenty of vent slots in the upper part of the HG.

I surely hate to sound like an old grump, but has anyone with a 7.62x39 that has a factory threaded barrel considered the 922r count? I am not an expert, but the count for a Saiga-12 with choke threaded barrel counts one more than the same shotgun without threads. Is this the same situation with the rifle? Because if it is, that means one more item to correct for a 922r legal rifle. Anyone?

Yes, nice job. I also drilled a forward hole on the underside of the HG - not very big, but air is what it wants. It looks like we both went for the same venting idea, with the same method - I did sort of "route" the connected holes with the bit in a drill press - saved a bunch of hand filing. I do like the "Saiga look" keeping the original HG on, but do have concerns of melting, however unlikely.

eric - prowl around a bit in the older threads. Look for "I made a lower handguard retainer -or rather I modified one" by photoshooter on 20 Feb 2010. On post #3 in that thread is a link to an older post (converting further) about just what you were asking about. Looks pretty easy, and a minor investment (under $20?).

Good point, DaveM - can't be too careful about the silliness that just might bite you!

There is a thread somewhere about doing just that - using a (I thought I read a $15 part) to cut and re-shape to do the same job as the Dinzag retainer. I have not done that, just pointing out information fairly recently posted.

Does anyone know why the Saiga has the "tacked on cover"? Does it have any structural, or other use? Seems like a source of retained heat, just where you don't want it.

The confusion comes from miss understanding "cutting off". The sleeve is part of the FSB, not directly attached to the barrel, and not threaded on - it only covers the threads (or bare barrel, if not threaded). Cutting off of the sleeve is circular (aroung the barrel, not in line with it). The FSB is pressed onto the barrel (tight fit), and the sleeve is also tight - I needed pliers to get mine off, and the "spacer piece" that I put back on, needed to be gently driven on. Hope that helps.

While you are working on the guts, good time to trim the BHO exterior lever to shorten it. When the PG is mounted, the original length BHO lever sticks down a bit in the way of the trigger. When engaged, holding the bolt open, scribe the lever at the base of the receiver, cut it off and smooth the cut-off end. It will work just fine, and not interfere.

For your questions - You can shine a light into the chamber and see if there is a "step" machined into the area where the base of the neck of the cartridge will sit (less than half the neck length). Also, there is a "sticky" at the top of this site that has photos of swelled and not swelled case necks. Strip your Saiga (remove dust cover, remove recoil spring, slide out bolt and carrier), then you can look down into the bottom of the receiver and see/not see a square-cut hole for the PG. The barrel threads are hard to tell, but may show a beginning thread - LH - right at the crown, leading und

I keep raising the question, relative to the 922r regs, of one added foreign part on a Saiga rifle if it has exposed factory barrel threads. Saiga 12 with a choke threaded barrel is classed as an additional foreign part, as opposed to no threads. I have to assume the rifle barrel threads work the same "foreign part count". We need to be aware, if that is true. Means 15, rather than the listed 14 foreign parts. Anyone know for sure?

YES! I even had one HP round jamb against that sharp edge, before filing it into a smooth ramp - just a very little bit of filing.

My tubing cutter also crapped out long before cutting through - I did the job (twice) with a 6" hack saw and some patience and care - worked well.

Just my two cents - I've only done one conversion, so don't claim to be an expert. The best thing to do before any taking apart of anything, is to review the available videos (numerous, some very good, very explicit) on this site, or links from this site. Some have done a step by step display of all you will need to know. Stripping the weapon helps to understand what is going on in the videos. The "sticky" at the top of the site has tons of photos to give you ideas of how to finish off your conversion (actually, a restoration from Sporter to basic AK-47). The Saiga (AK-47) is a tough and very

I used a 6" fine tooth hack saw, after my tubing cutter gave up. The normal factory threads are 14x1 LH, and only extend about 5/8" from the muzzle. Photo on post #12 on "I think mine is threaded" thread - shows a TAPCO brake threaded as far as it will go, and part of the original sleeve cut to fill the difference. I understand that Dinzag supplies an AK-74 brake with 14x1 LH threads that will go on all the way to the FSB - have not done that my self. You need to be able to index most brakes, and lock in place by some method.