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Darth AkSarBen

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Everything posted by Darth AkSarBen

  1. You can always use frangible bullets. Barnes has them and they are on sale at Midway USA now $24.99 140 gr MPG bullets / 50. NOTE these are not ready to fire ammo, but bullets used for reloading. No lead. Will makes Zombies and others, go away in a quick hurry. Designed to minimize ricochet and non targets.
  2. I full lenght resize. It is recommended for the auto loading rifles for them to function every time. If you had a bolt action you could get away with neck resizing only, as you can always use the strength of the cam action of the bolt to close on the round. Semi autos don't respond well to only neck sizing.
  3. Interesting picture. I concede that the BATFE are even addressing non functioning auto weapons with "potential" of such even as much as an auto sear pin/hole. Makes you wonder if anyone ever has one of those in his closet that never paid much attention to it. We, here in the forums, are great to look at dropping in NEW FCG and other modifications to move the firearm to the more original configuration of what it was, only in semi-automatic form. There has to be some that bought the rifle and simply do not know about this forum or this idea of changing the FCG and may have innocently put them in
  4. Shellshoker1918, it is a 5.56 chamber. My Saiga has different head space tolernaces than the normal .223 Remington. Also you all might find this link of great interest: http://pookieweb.dyndns.org:61129/AK101/characteristics.htm
  5. That was Destert Storm 1911 's rifle, aka as dstorm1911 in the forums. He had some domestic problems, and left the forums at AK Files forums back in 2007. Had hundreds of rifles, and had to crate them all up. Hasn't been heard from on the forum site for years at AK Files. Hope things worked out for him. His last post.... http://www.akfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28812
  6. I shoot out of a box. I have a wine box that I cut off all but one of the longer flaps, right side. Cut a U in the rear and a small V in the front. When I fire, the right flap is leaned inward toward the rifle. Provides a nice rest and use it for target practice, and scope alignment, and hand loads. When I fire the brass bounces off the flap on the right side and back down inside the box. Once in a while, the brass bounces back at me, but it just lands right at my feet. I also put on an additional 1/2" of spring, same size as the recoil spring, to help dampen the violent action of th
  7. Keep in mind for a MBR, that the M14 comes with 20 rnd magazines. You can get 25 rnd magazines for the Saiga. More expensive, but worth every penny if your life depended on them.
  8. Twist is at 1:10 from what I have read. See my post on "Good load for my Saiga". I have have very good luck with Benchmark powder. Each rifle is going to be a bit different, but besides the fun of reloading and cost savings, you are going to be able to tailor a load to that weapon.
  9. You might also find that a lot of old time reloader strongly recommend using magnum primers for spherical powders. These powders are harder to ignite than other extruded powders. However, with magnum primers, with more flash, you need to start a little lower in powder than before and work from there.
  10. I have Lyman .223 dies and got a stuck case and then went with the LEE. Never regretted it. I still have the Lyman dies, but even my wife found out how much smoother and easier it is to resize with the LEE over the Lyman.. FWIW. I use door modling and have no issues with AK dings now. I also use a LEE single press and it's cheap but it's doing a great job!! Use Magnum primes if you can find them. Reason: Just reduce the load a bit to prevent over pressure on extruded powders but they are pretty much necessary for complete ignition of ball (spherical) powders, such as BLC-2 (
  11. I would take the Saiga .308 for the reliability of the action and the ease of conversion. The Garand has a great action, but it is a heavy rifle. The Saiga is probably also a heavy rifle, but the Kalashnikov action is a very proven design.
  12. My .223 Saiga has some head space concerns, but, mostly brought on by me for taking down the center part of the bolt before I read on here about the dimensional considerations. However, let me pass on this observation. My Forster NO-GO gauge closes into battery. My Forster FIELD (which, btw, is NOT 1.4700 like most FIELD specs, but 1.4696") will go into battery as well. My fired brass that I pulled the bullet and dumped out the poweder does NOT show headspace issues of primer backing out, AND when put into the chamber and the bolt closed without the bolt carrier is so snug that I cannot move t
  13. Thanks!! I have some Varget but didn't use that because it is a compressed load. Thought I'd just use a faster burn powder and save the Varget for the .308 I'll get later on. BLC-2 works good, along with H335, but you need to use magnum primers for the spherical powder.
  14. Excellent post. Even though my rifle says ".223 Remington" on the side, I wonder if they did not have the 5.56 x 45 in mind when they cut the chamber dimesions. One thing for sure. The .223 Saiga is built pretty stout. I have read that it is a 7.62 barrel and receiver and underbored for the .223 chambering. That should give it a thicker barrel than something like the Mini-14 Ruger.
  15. " It was probably the first time anyone came to their house and took their stuff also" Read their reports. Selling to the BATF etc. Selling and advertising will get you noticed. If it were that easy for someone to be arrested for a reciever with 3 holes or a pack of parts, the courts would be filled with people awaiting trials. I see the definition as a NFA weaon as receiver and/or parts that make it into a machine gun. First guy was trying to sell a fully assembled weapon without the magazine. Second case they were trying to sell M-16 suto sears. Interesting points all. If elected
  16. Having a 3 hole reciever and all these parts in a drawer mean nothing. You can't be held and charged with owing parts. The definition of a machine gun is a firearm that fires more than one round on depressing the trigger. Parts in my desk drawer mean just that. Parts. I can have everything to build a suppressor as well, but as long as I don't "build" it I'm not in possesion of it. When's the last time anyone even "came" to your house to look at your stuff???
  17. You all might look at the Tapco Intrafuse stock for the .308. I have one on my Saiga and it came with an extra piece for just the .308 Saiga, so I know it fits and it has 3 rails on it. Picture of it and a side mount scope mount that works pretty well. You should see my 3 shot one hole group with this rifle and scope combo. I plan on putting an Intrafuse fore grip on the .308 I get this fall.
  18. On a Saiga .308 the front sight block is so far forward, from those I have handled, that it would be impossible to put a decent flash suppressor on there. It has a unique taper on it on the last little bit. Brian at Dinzag Arms, can remove the FSB, bore it out, on the back side, mill in another pin further back and reset the FSB back far enough to get a good thread on the end. Seems that this had no such work and maybe just a trial of getting a flash suppressor on there, maybe some welding. Should be a puddle somewhere that shows the weld. Can't hardly do it without. Brian can cut the b
  19. Call her Cami from the Cambria County in PA. Very nice by the way!!
  20. I handled a Kalashnikov .22 by GSG this evening over at On Target in Kalamazoo. It was nicely done, except for the wood. Now that said, it's probably authentic in that regards as I guess most AK-47s were cheap cheap wood, even pallet boards I'm told. The PG was a bit small, but figured was good for a woman or juvenile for shooting. Price is definitely adult. Over 500 bucks. But the overall metal machining and finish were very good. Now, if it is as accurate and reliable as the GSG MP-5 That will be very nice. Even though it is $500 +, your savings come in the form of .22 LR ammo that you can e
  21. Excellent!! I like the side folder. Put a AK-74 brake on the front and it will start to look like a modified AK-101
  22. Looking at the ones on my rifle, they look like rivets, just like the other rivets, dark black, rounded and flush against the receiver. Looks like I would need to grind them off, that's how much they blend in looking like rivets.
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