Will486

Tromix SBS, i believe? Thats not a Tromix trigger guard... But the handguard looks Galil. Definitely looks like Travis' Micro T1 on the rail. My friend with an 870 keeps giving me crap about my Saiga being an overproduced, stamped russian piece of crap. I think once he sees that the gurus at Magpul have recognized the Saiga as a worthy weapons system, he'll shut up. Should be great advertising for Tromix. If it is one of their 8 inchers. Which I believe it is.. but who knows. Could be some Red Jacket custom or something..

I ordered the S12 Krebs plate through greg and I have only good things to say about it, and him. If you got the flat-topped version, he definitely sent you the right one, but like he said these weapons arent built to the most exacting of standards, and its possible that your bolt carrier rail was a little low or the hole for the safety in the left side of the receiver was too high, etc., etc.

An excellent idea, very simple. As far as retaining the pins go, Ill get around to opening it up sometime this week and ill swap out that plate. I dont think it was actually what caused the carrier to jam back, as the carrier slides freely when I manually cycle it. Ill also compare how high the Russian mag and the SureFires sit in the magwell to see if the rear locking tabs are just too tall, and are just forcing the mag and top round into the bolt.

Alright, thanks for the advice guys. I didnt even think about the retaining plate contacting the bolt, that certainly couldve caused the carrier to jam. Doesnt explain the scratching/denting on the rounds, but... I guess Ill work that out another day. For now Ill go through ripping the FCG out again and replacing or further modifying the retaining plate.

Right, sorry. I did explain that it was failing to fire and feeding fine, but- doesnt matter. My point is that theres a thread floating around on the JTE reduced power hammer spring in which many users testify as to its reliability. The only time Ive ever heard of guys with reduced power hammer springs experiencing light strikes is when theyre using it in conjunction with a heavier Tromix firing pin and/or spring. I am sure that JTE would not sell a spring that did not fire. I am almost certain that the failure to fire was because the axis pin that the hammer rides on was out of alignment, and

2nd setting, for birdshot. But, no, its not failing to feed rounds, its failing to set them off. All my failures to fire today all had a chambered, live round that had light or no indentations on the primers.

easier said than done. I have faith in the JTE spring and doubt that it caused the FTF. I think it was the pin causing the hammer to be out of alignment, which was my own damned fault.

Right, well. I took the devotchka to the range today, and the first round failed to fire. So.. Tap, rack... Boom. It failed to fire intermittently for about the next hour while running through approximately 50 magnum rounds. Not to worry, I think I know what the problem here is. It is running a JTE 25% reduced power hammer spring, but I dont think thats it. I modified my Krebs retaining plate so it would be easier to install the axis pins. This was a brilliant idea until I found out that it no longer retained the front pin, and the hammer could rotate off axis when the pin popped out to the le

Ive heard you can use light 1911 recoil springs. Dont quote me on it though. If you absolutely cannot get it working, send it out to Cadiz Gun Works. Even if youve voided the warranty and end up having to pay for the labor, they'll get it working for you.

Yes, it matters which way your puck faces. Im not sure about the stock one, but an ETAC, fairly certain yeah. As far as stance goes, bvamps correct, you will perceive more recoil with an inline stock. Try and put as much of your main body mass behind the weapon as possible, you dont want it kicking straight into your sternum, but try and seat the CTR on your pectoral muscle if possible. Remember to lean into it and remind it whos boss. MT - BikerYoda installed an Enidine on his S-12. He had short cycling issues to begin with but told me that after a break in shooting, it cycles just fine a

dont see a pic.. i assume you mean this: Thats a decent price, especially for what it can do for your 2nd shot on target times. Id be weary of it though, if you dont know what youre doing when installing it you can turn your autoloader into a bolt action shotgun.

you want it converted, stock? Any accessories on it? Heres a pic i just had laying around ive silhouetted. Let me know if you need something else.

Consider whether this will be a plinker or a SHTF gun. If you want a gun for its convenience, get the 7.62. Like you said, the compatibility of parts and ammo will come in handy. But the 5.45 certainly performs better.. (imo). More accurate, especially at longer range, and it can incur more damage to the target. Better penetration, if you intend to shoot through walls, cars, barriers of any type. So.. My advice is just consider what youre going to use it for.

ah, Ive found the Tapco T6 for milled receivers... Hmm. Alright. Not really sure if I want to trust in polymer, but oh well.

Hey guys. Wondering if theres any way to have both an AR stock and a MILLED receiver. Anybody know of any adapters, projects, anything? Any helps much appreciated. Heres a picture of a stamped one. Just because threads with pictures are more interesting.

..I wouldnt go that far. As long as you use them when its warm, theyre great mags. Ill get some chaos steels or russian mags for winter use, but otherwise, reliable as hell.

Sorry man. Sucks. Send it out to them.. SureFire Gun Mags LLC 2404 E. Broadway Ave. Maryville TN. 37804 I got a great response from their customer support department, i emailed them late friday night at surefiregunmags@aol.com and they got back to me within the hour. Id email them before shipping, of course, and include a printed copy of the email. I could have been too quick to judge though, they havent sent me it back yet. Could take them months, who knows. Well see..

+1 for cutting it in half. grab the dremel, it'll be easy as pie once cut.

yeah, how many ports?

none. if you want, you can mount a BUIS set on your rail, front and rear, but any rear aperture on that rail will be too tall for a barrel mounted front sight post. Krebs' barrel mounted front sight, for example, is designed to work with their ghost ring that fits directly into the stock dovetail. If that gives you some idea of how low the front sight would be.. The post would end up below your rail system, so unless you plan on using this as some sort of improvised mortar, I wouldnt use a barrel mounted front sight post and a rail mounted rear.

well shit.

Ive accepted that Ill never buy a Saiga from my local gun store with a folding stock, normal FCG and a magwell. But where do I get those Vepr 12 style connecting rods, pistons and gas blocks: ...Thats what I want to know.

..where? And... I feel you man.. Sadly.. This happened just today to one of my 13 rounders: Anybody noticed the difference in SureFire Mags? Heres a pic of two different types of 13 rounders. Possibly different generations, like AGPs. I used both of these today in temperatures ~30 degrees. The broken one snapped on the first round, which was birdshot btw. The operational mag worked fine.. The front and rear locking tabs seem to be made of a different type of plastic, not to mention the clearly different front tab design. Perhaps theyre improving.

Yeah, R&R Racing makes an adapter that mounts a Burris on the dovetail. Its got "bunny ear" style gaurds on it too, a nice feature if you dont want to muff up your optic.

Yes the "hook" on the front of your surefires is definitely going to have to come off, and then some extra filing/sanding around the back corners and edges will probably have to be done as well. If youve got a grinder you can do it in a bout a minute a mag, just dont take too much off.. As for your second question... I only know of one other magwell, and unless CSS's is made of S30V (..its not) I dont see any other reason as to why it is so expensive. Oh well. Unless youve got a buddy with a 3D CAD modeling program and a CNC mill, this is still your best option. Embrace the suck, as they say.