lksyotas

I also ground down the screw head slightly to allow the LRBHO to position parallel to the receiver side. It would not fit in its original form... What do you mean by the beak being properly bent upwards? Did you do this with grinding or physically bend it? 4140 steel seems to hard to physically bend by hand - I would think it would be to brittle? Also, I'm thinking of reheat treating the beak portion after I've ground most of the heat treat out of it...what are your thoughts?

Where on the 'HB" was hanging up on the mag? The only thing that ever interfered with my mag/mag release was POINT 2. On mine, position 3 is currently limiting the LRBHO in down travel by the rear of the stock factory mag. You didn't have that issue or did you remove material from that position prior to test fitting a mag? I'm also fighting to get the darn mag release lever reinstalled. I've lost the darn pin three times in my workshop...LOL...I've even used the slightly smaller dowel pin trick to guide the spring and release lever into position.

Great update Gunfixr! You give us hope! Can't wait to hear how you make out with the live fire test. I just hope that the "beak" will be strong enough with such a thin profile left after the tweaking...I noticed that also today while working mine that the beak was hanging up on the rear of the magazine and I wondered just how much I would have to remove to get it to clear both the mag and the bolt head...

Well if that is the case then I say go for more removal on the bottom. That is what allowed mine to at least allow the rear top tab to engage the bolt carrier. Tomorrow, I'll finish the top and bolt and report back with my findings. I haven't seen anyone else say this yet but thank you for your write up and great pictures. Your pictures were a huge help to me getting going! I'm one of those impatient "mechanical engineers" that needs to get projects done with or without the instructions completed. I know I should have waited a bit longer for the full install video but I really want

Hello Bridis, I also am working on installing my LRBHO and am not as far along as you but close behind. I noticed that mine wouldn't rotate on an empty magazine enough either to engage the bolt carrier until I slowly removed more material from Point 3 and 5. Now, it will rotate far enough to hold the bolt carrier back on an empty mag but I haven't trimmed the top of the "HB" yet to fit below the carrier and bolt head. So I'm afraid that removing to much material from the "HB" on the top and bottom will yield a very thin profile that won't be very strong. What are your thoughts?

Yeah the seller and I have been talking - trying to work out the final price. Thanks though for the heads up! I appreciate you taking the time to write me!

Thanks Shooter for the heads up! I might just have to go that route. I really don't need another AK and I'm not sure it would be easy to sell a single stack AK on the open market after purchase...decisions decisions...

I just shot ten rounds of 2 3/4" Buckhammers last week at the range. They kicked more than any other slug I've ever fired from any 12g shotgun! I shot an additional ten rounds of Hornady SST slugs and they felt like cheap birdshot after letting the Buckhammers fly...

Thanks Jager for your post. I am going to hold out (perhaps forever) for the one I posted a picture of. I thank you again for your inquiry though! Merry Christmas!

I just refinished my Saiga about four weeks ago with flat black Gunkote. I didn't want to blast the entire gun either (have a blast cabinet but only did the removable parts like the selector, top cover, fire control parts, etc). For the receiver, gas tube, and barrel assembly I simply hosed it down with acetone and sanded the majority of the finish off by hand. The acetone really does take the original finish off almost down to bare metal. I'm pretty confident if I left it overnight in a solution it would be stripped. Anyway, the flat black Gunkote ended up being a bit duller and mor

Thanks for the kind words Shannon! I did end up purchasing a rifled choke on clearance at my local Cabela's for $18. I shot a few Hornady SST's through it and a few Buckhammers. I have to get a red dot or something because the stock sights "suck" for distant shooting. The front bead is HUGE at 50-100 yards at least for me. I'll probably go with a Russian optic to keep the gun as true to original form as possible. I'm kinda a nut when it comes to authenticity and using original parts...

For now, the competitions I shoot in are IDPA related and the rules only allow #6 shot and higher with no slugs. For this, I'll be sticking with the full choke for the distances that range from 10 - 25 yd shots. But thanks for the idea, if I was going to be transitioning as in three gun - I might have to go that route.

Hello everyone, just wanted to do a quick update to my original post here. Its been just over a month since I last posted. I have since done a restoration and added Cobra's Custom Winckoke adapter to improve my shot pattern for shooting steel in matches. After I got the shotgun running smoothly on all loads including the bulk Federal and Winchester loads I decided it was time to do a "restoration". Thanks to the plethora of do it yourself posts here I found it very easy to do the change over. I wanted to make my Saiga as close to the original spec as possible but I live in NY so

PM sent...

Yeah, I will keep you in mind if I run across any. It is starting to seem like a pipe dream...I really HATE New York. I grew up in PA over the boarder and really miss the low taxes and lack of stupid gun control laws. I might just convert it over to a standard warsaw stock pistol grip setup and keep it at my relatives in PA. Only a ten minute drive for me to "visit" it...lol...

Thanks for the heads up. I am going to continue to be hopeful that someone will have one of the ones I am looking for for sale. I understand they were only imported for a few years if that. I really like the narrow long pistol grip design on the one I'm looking for. The regular wooden thumbholes and the Choate have fat, short grips that are awkward for me to handle with reloads...

I'm in New York and have to use a thumbhole stock on my conversion. I have a Choate installed now and I don't like it. I am desperately looking for a Bulgarian one like shown in the picture below. Please let me know if you have one available for sale. Name your price and we can work out the details from there. I have a Bulgarian regular Warsaw stock and US made plastic pistol grip from a rifle I can use for trade if you are interested.

Does the DPH tri rail cover the side gas hole on the gas block or does it end short of it? Reason I ask is perhaps the original plastic guard covered the hole enough to allow some back pressure to aid in the gas system providing a bit more gas to cycle your gun. If this is now fully open then it may be venting the excess gas and thus short stroking the operating system. If the rail covers the hole then I have no idea... Edit: just re read your original post - I see that you fired it with the rail before the conversion. Then I would have to lean toward the new hammer not being low enou

Wow, great camo job, you see a lot of them on different boards and each are unique in their own way but I love the fade job you do on the edges. Are you airbrushing and if so which model are you using? Looks to fine for spray can to me...Awesome combo though regardless!

As title says - I have a like new Saiga 12 trigger guard kit for sale. I purchased this kit to compliment my Saiga 12 conversion but ended up modifying a Bulgarian style one instead. I mounted this for test fit only so it is in like new condition. Comes with all mounting hardware and instructions. Link to Carolina Shooters website Asking $35 shipped CONUS SOLD to gunboy 69 US Postal MO or gift option of PP accepted. PM me or email me with "I'll take it" or any questions. This is also listed on AR15.com but I have had no hits so I'm not going to upda

The Saiga 12's receiver is 1.6mm vs standardized 1mm and does not have the stamped dimples on either side of the magazine well. The rear trunion will fit standard AKM and AK 74 stamped stocks. Also it is longer than a traditional receiver. Maybe due to the extra length of a 12 g shell vs the standard 39mm rounds and the added length of the bolt carrier assembly. I'm sure the experts will chime in as I'm a newbie here also...

Looking for either US or Bulgy made rear stock (warsaw length AK74 style). Let me know what you have. Thanks for looking!

Quick update...After my original range trip, I studied up on the polishing posts and took a close look at my shotgun and the bolt, carrier wear points. I polished them up with lapping compound and radius-ed the edges that ride on the rails. The next day I took the gun out and ran a box of Federal target loads through it. These loads are an even lighter target load than the cheap Winchester stuff. I ended up with five FTE's out of the box. After a day of hard thinking and studying up on even more threads here I decided to open up my gas holes to 3/32". Reason I went with opening up t

Good luck at the range. Hopefully you have similar results with yours. Although, shooting 1oz. slugs probably will cycle fine - just make sure you have the gas plug on setting 1. I remember bench resting my 870 deer gun a few years back - I shot ten Remington Buck Hammers and thought I was going to die...The recoil from those slugs is greater than any other I've ever felt!

I did the same method as you when I removed and reinstalled my gas plug. With my shotgun, I screwed the plug all the way in till it bottomed out and then unscrewed slightly until the detent locked into the first recess which was setting 1. I then depressed the detent and kept turning it until it locked into setting 2 (I'm shooting low brass (low dram) shells and wanted it on setting 2.) This worked great for me as my new gun shot a box of 25 Winchester bulk pack shells with 2 FTE's. Mine's a three hole gun too with the hole diameters all under the 3/32" recommendation. I was shocked