datubie

A guy I know from a regular machine shop.

This is what I use. The bit at the back is a choke adapter from Cobra Custom with a custom brake/comp welded onto the front.

Needs a better name... Like Joe!

You'll need to open up the ports to get some cycling reliability with cheap ammo back. No prob, I understand mine is long and heavy already and a little cumbersome. I am planning on chopping it down to about 12" and perm attaching the tromix monster brake. It doesn't really do a lot for weight, but I totally hear you I can't imagine it any longer either. I just like the recoil reduction because it starts to feel like shooting a carbine and is very easy to shoot. I like the rem choke idea, let us know what you find and decide to do.

I think the wait is almost 6 months now.

Not separating parts, sorry.

Deadbeat buyer. I accepted his offer, but he refuses to respond to me PMs or posts.

Back on sale. Deadbeat buyer.

Hello? I sent you a PM

SOLD. PM incoming

I've decided to sell my VEPR 12 to pay some bills. Bought new and still unfired. Here are the stuff I've added. - CSS Molot brake - Tapco FCG (Hammer modded for less creep) - Mission First Tactical grip - Mako recoil reducing extension (A Magpul QD sling receptcle added to the underside) - Magpul MOE stock and riser - Saiga 12 safety selector - 9" rail bolted (removable) to the stock forearm - Tromix exteded bolt handle It comes with a 12rd SGM mag, the stock mag, box, papers, packing, original safety lever, original pistol grip, original wood buttstock, original muzzle cap.

I bought a blank length of alum picantinny rail, cut it to 9", reliefed the end of the rail where it would meet the curved side of the hanguard, added JB wield to make up the gaps and bolted it to the hanguard.

That last pic was interesting. Maybe I can try adapting the "stock" stock for that purpose.

Since you can't have the pistol grip, you might as well get a regular Saiga 12 instead.

Ultimak gas tube top rail for Saiga 12 with fixed sights. I used some JB weld on the underside when I used it but it isn't necessary. I've ground off must of the residue and resprayed part of the underside with flat black. Second pic, on the right most side of the part. $70 shipped. Paypal or USPS MO.

They are already locked together.

But the Mako get you a bottom piece as well.

Sorry, misread your original post. I thought you were refering to the BHO spring. I don't know how you figure the spring leg is too short. This is the area to bend outward, then back in a little, so the hook sits in position on the rear of the trigger. I have had absolutely no issue with losing the BHO lever up inside the gun since doing this fix, in literally thousands of rounds. Good God.... this is an AK. You could fix it with a rock.

I've found a way around this. I use shells that have a roll crimp and I fill the cavity with surfboard epoxy (which sets hard and brittle). To help it along, I've also cut a + in the epoxy plug with a dremel cuttig disc. You'll only need to load the top 3 rounds with these and fill up the rest with regular shells.

The spring leg is too short and there is still a possibily of the lever itself getting stuck inside.

I'm another one for the rifled barrels!

It was supposed to be two chambers, but i think my machinist forgot and made it one chamber. The piece it is welded to can accept screw-in chokes, but you have to use a long choke key to reach it.

Dirt hole? AK's(Saiga) eat dirt for breakfast! Yes, I agree that the Krebs is a little more unwieldy, but I'd rather fiddle with that than run the risk of having the stock one lock up the gun. I chose the reliability of the gun over the convenience of the stock BHO.

I completely junked the BHO lever, put in an unmodified hammer and added a Krebs enhanced selector lever.

I'm guessing that would take some on the hunter's part as well. Grizzily's may weigh over 1000lbs, but I doubt it's balls are larger than it's head. And if you were confronted with one, I highly doubt you'd be concentrating on its nads.