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O.S.O.K.

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Everything posted by O.S.O.K.

  1. Retainer plates are OK - easy, yes, but why pay for one when you can go to the local ACE Hardware, etc. and get some 7/32 e-clips for 15 cents a pop? They are easy on and off and cheap cheap cheap. And no fitting. I use these in all of my AK's. I just shot a close-up pic of a couple of these clips - thought it would help those not familiar with them:
  2. O.S.O.K.

    new guy

    Well welcome to the board and happy 4th of July! Your ammo is probably not corrosive, but to be sure, please post more intormation (box markings, etc.) or post a pic of it. Then we can tell you for sure. If you want to be sure that no harm will come to your rifle, just clean it with hot water and then the CLP. The water will disolve any corrosive primer salts.
  3. My advice is to start with the .223. You will really enjoy shooting it and the ammo is cheaper too. It is also lighter. If you do intend to use this for deer or hog hunting, then yes, by all means go with the .308 but if for target, plinking, home defense, varmint control, etc. - go with the .223 - it is a much better AK to start with IMHO.
  4. Yep, it is easy and yes, RSA does rule And now the obligitory request for pics! ?
  5. Well Steve that would be funny if cpileri hadn't asked the question to start with... Nice poleece car pic though Is that what the BATFE agents get to drive these days?
  6. Well took her back to the range and tried out the new fcg and stock config. Shot very well! The Hertenberger berdan ammo gave 2-3" groups - shooting about 2" to the right of aim. Had some handloads on hand (Hornady 150 grain spire points and W748 powder) and those did even better - 1 1/4" group at 100 yards with the iron sights - again, 2" right and a little higher than the Herty. My nice B-Square sight pusher won't fit the front sight base of this rifle - too wide fore and aft, so tried a brass nut on one side and a c-clamp - couldn't get it to budge. Decided to just give in and
  7. Even if only one of the two handguard halves is imported, it must be counted as an imported part. They must both be made in the USA to be taken out of the imported parts count.
  8. Yeah, I saw those pics - great job on it! I like the drag stocks on the long barreld .308's. I used the flat. One thing I didn't do is paint the dust cover and gas tube - they are both gloss black and it has a kind of two-tone appearance. Of course, I haven't really oiled it down yet, trying to allow a little more curing time before I do that.
  9. No, you're not missing anything. It's probably just stiff or may have a little paint on the threads - go ahead and crank away, should loosen and move. And welcome to the board
  10. Found it! I have an RCBS Rockchucker press that was nearby and the little shit was laying in the dead primer tray... Thanks guys.
  11. wow, that is impressive! Thanks for the link!
  12. Yes, I used a Red Star and so didn't have to re-shape the hammer. This fcg allows all kinds of adjustment and I decided on a single stage pull. It is excellent and the safety is vey positive too. There is a little side-to-side movement (which can be cured with spacers) but it doesn't seem to affect the pull or sear engagement.
  13. Hey - your Saiga 7.62 will kick the ass of any Mini 30 out there. The mini 30 will throw 6" groups on a good day and even 8" is considered normal (100 yards). They have a long throat with .308" bores - allows you to shoot either .311" com block ammo or handloads with .308" bullets or some such BS.
  14. Lookin good in the neighborhood! Here's a pic of my .308 Carbine that I just finished up today:
  15. Ta dah! As mentioned, used Duplicolor high temp and once again, it worked great! Really a nice finish. The Red Star fcg also worked really well - have it tuned down to a single stage trigger and it is sweet! I can't wait to get it out to the range again Oh, I didn't install the bolt hold open - was in the process of wranglig with that damned spring and "fwoing!" off it went into the wild blue and I couldn't find the little bastage. So, it is sans bho for now...
  16. I just completed the pg conversion mods on my Saiga carbine. Checked for function, fit, degreased and painted up with duplicolor high-temp. Now she's in the oven curing. This was a little different than the 22" model that I had. The 22" had a pg hole done already, this one needed me to cut it. I think this is an older model as its marked with EAA - and I don't remember if my 22" had that marking or not (traded it for this carbine and a little graft). I used rivets to secure the trigger guard (did the same thing on the 22") but this time, the rivet inside needed to be trimmed down to
  17. keep us posted! and of course, show some pics as you get along - in fact, if you have a couple of the exposed muzzle/barrel, that'd be cool!
  18. Yeah, that's what I'm thinking- take the dust cover off, charge the action, put the safety on, then slide it down and watch what happens - then you will know!
  19. Ah - yeah that's where I get my AK receivers - best available IMHO - they must be busy - I've never had any problem getting them before... thanks again! Edit: to add - I checked that out - is a "standard" type fsb - I'm wanting one with a threaded end - to accept an AK-74 type brake. Apparently, the Romanian fsb's with the threaded ends are too small to bore-out to fit .62" muzzles. They are made for much thinner 5.45x39 barrels, so figures. Perhaps the rpk fsb is shorter and allows the exposed muzzle to be threaded? Maybe that's why you're looking into reducing the diameter?
  20. $230 for a 16.5" 7.62x39 wow! Thanks for the heads up!
  21. I had the same thought... the normal method is to press the barrel out and place it on a lathe and mill the end. You've seen the little jigs that are used to trim case necks on brass? Something like that only bigger would be just the thing for this application. Even simpler, doing it the same way that a pipe cutter works - only instead of a cutter, a milling device (mill file section) - should be able to produce a good-enough result...
  22. What kind of fcg do you have? If it is a Red Star, you just need to adjust the settings to increase the amount of contact between the hammer and the trigger sear to prevent this. If it has a modified G-2 or similar, you may need to slightly shorten the safety lever (inside where it contacts the fcg) to prevent it from hitting the back arm of the hammer when it swings down to clear that back arm. It sounds like it's pushing down on that arm and the sear is only barely caught on the hammer, so it slips off letting the hammer fly forward. Also, do you have the disconnector spring instal
  23. That's what I was wondering! Thank you! Chris at AK-103 said that the Romanina fsb doesn't have the needed material to allow him to bore-out - where'd you get the RPK fsb? Great info!!!
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