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  1. Do these use the same magazines as the Saiga-12? Obviously they would have to be modified to work with the mag well if so...
  2. If you look up Gunfun's profile, he has a video (edit: in his signature) on how to load a full magazine on a closed bolt without modifications. It is technique - you may do it without realizing it or something. It's basically angling the magazine so that the bolt pushes down the round as you lock the magazine in. I've tried it and it works, but it takes some finesse. I dented a few top rounds beyond use before I got it to work.
  3. Anyone have any REASONS why they don't like the BHOs?
  4. If it is installed properly there's no way it can fail...they put them in at the factory, so these guns were designed to have them... I had to do this before I installed mine. It was a hassle, but not unbearable once you got used to it.
  5. Do you mean the factory left out the BHO? Or you mean you left it out in the conversion? Either way, there should be no problem installing one on a converted gun. I bought my gun already converted and installed the CSS BHO. It was fairly simple, but took a while because you have to grind down the hammer axis to make room for the BHO to use the same pin. It works nicely.
  6. I only put "less than $100" because I have no initial pricing estimates at all yet, but that would be around the target price that I think the market would bear. I understand the "what's special about yours" argument, and it is another facet of this project I am considering. Ideally the extra strength in the magazine would be the selling point. I have considered adding some design features to the magazine to assist with loading, but I am unsure rather or not this would be too "gimmicky." The operative word is quality. I want these to be at least as nice as the factory mags. I intend to prove that with videos of hard, repetitive testing of the prototype. I understand that magazines are relatively simple and similar in their function. I am not targeting the "I want the cheapest" crowd. They will buy polymer all day. I'm looking for the "I want quality" crowd. They will be looking for dependability and durability, and I think that's where these magazines come in.
  7. Metal is going to inherently be more expensive than plastic. The additional material cost and durability I would hope would command a higher price. The only price point I've been comfortable putting out there at this stage is that I'd like them to be "less than $100." Especially in initial runs, the price of the magazines MAY be around that and will probably come down over time. The problem is that initial tooling/mold/CNC costs will have to be wrapped up in the price of initial runs. I wouldn't actually be seeing any profit until at least hundreds of these had sold. Everything would be going to pay off the initial investment. That is why this thread is so crucial - I need to know that I will at least break even on this project in order to feel comfortable moving forward. I'm fine with operating on a narrow profit margin, but certainly not with making an investment that goes nowhere because "people want cheap." I am NOT interested in taking preorders unless, for some reason, people are okay with that. It has been my understanding that taking money on vaporware has been a sore subject with the community here, and understandably so. I do not want to fall into that, and so it will be a much, much higher cost directly to me if I move on this idea. I want to do this right - I understand that if these magazines offer reliability and durable, metal construction that there may be a good chance these magazines see actual combat. For that reason, I'm hoping to maintain high manufacturing standards, and unfortunately there will be an associated cost with that. I'd love to be able to offer them at SGM prices - a max of $45 for their largest magazine, but I just don't see that being realistically feesible. In addition, this product would offer much more solid construction than the SGM mags (not that SGM makes bad products - their 12 round is my favorite magazine). I'm still up in the air about which material to go with. Cobra, after reading your post I want to lean towards aluminum, but my concern is that aluminum is relatively soft, and with the prevalence of mag wells and the new ones that are coming out, I get the sense that these magazines will need to be able to "drop free" and survive a fall from at least 5 feet. Perhaps aluminum will work, and at the very least it won't rust. There are still lots of pros and cons to both - anyone with input on materials or the other issues on this project, I am listening!
  8. In light of several manufacturers talking about metal box mags, but nothing coming to fruition, I've started the process of looking at cost and prototyping box magazines. Assuming there is interest, I am basing the prototypes around the ultra reliable factory 5-round mag, and will ideally expand the idea to all sizes - 2, 5, 8, 10, and 12. My idea is that people seem to have such a vested interest in factory magazines that they command $150-$200 used for a factory 8-round magazine, and if I could produce US made 922 compliant magazines as reliable as factory spec and keep the cost <$100, I think this would be good for the platform as a whole. Before I go through the trouble and cost, I'd like to gauge the community's interest in metal box magazines. Would you be interested in metal box magazines? What sizes would you most like to see? What price(s) would you pay for various capacities? What would you want them made of? Aluminum? Steel? Another metal? CNC or sheet metal construction? Please bear in mind that this is an initial gauging of interest, and that nothing beyond CADD spec work has gone into this venture. I hope the community is as excited about this idea as I am, but perhaps this idea (or rather, its place in the market) is already better covered by existing manufacturers.
  9. I understand, and make no mistake: What you've done here for the platform is a huge milestone. I just hope the sales will allow you guys to kick these into full-swing production. Out of curiosity, how do these compare with re-profiled carriers such as Pauly's work?
  10. It seems like for this to be successful to the point where you can ramp up production and lower price, it's going to take some serious marketing. $280 is steep for right now, which I understand it's basically a custom part that the only alternative to is buying a new shotgun, I just hope the idea won't be dead-in-the-water because the first 20 moved slowly due to a higher price.
  11. Promag stick mags have a spotty reputation. SGM and AGP mags are solid.
  12. No welding needed for the conversion - or the Chaos HK sights - there are other HK sights that require welding, but the Chaos HK sights were made to fit on any of the Chaos top rails. I have both the Titan and the HK sights, and love both. Do take note - I've had to do quite a bit of work on my Chaos Titan to get it to fit properly. It is CRITICAL that you use loctite on ALL of the screws on your Chaos rail BEFORE YOU FIRE with the rail mounted. This includes the structural screws that hold the rail together, not just the screws to mount it. Also, take note of the set screw at the rear of the handguard on the bottom that pushes against your barrel. This will help further stabilize the rail during firing. I broke four screws trying to figure out what was going on with the mounting of the rail until I figured out that set screw really helps. Be weary of "reliability kits." They are a blanket solution that isn't perfect for every gun. Ensure your gun has the appropriate amount of gas ports for your model year and that they are they correct size. I'd also recommend seeing if you can get the weapon to cycle successfully in factory condition before you have your gunsmith convert it - that way you know it works before you mess with it and you know it won't be an issue with your gunsmith if it won't cycle after the conversion.

    fte issues

    So you've bought it, and you're going to pour money into it to get it to "work," only so you can sell it to buy a boring ass pump shotgun that doesn't even have a 20 round drum? Well, it's your gun. If you're going to do it right, ditch the Tapco puck. Don't put that lower power spring in, it's trash. Check your ports and see how many you have and make sure they're opened to the width they should be for your model year/number of ports. Most gunsmiths should be able to take the gun and do what you need with it, but you might be better served to just sell it on here for a fair price and take your $400 and put it towards your new tactical pump.
  14. I have one on mine. A lot of people can run them great right out of the box. Some need to be tuned. All this means is picking up a box of 7 1/2 shot and bringing a screwdriver to the range with you. Shoot, adjust, shoot, adjust, shoot, adjust until you get consistent successful ejections. Once it's tuned, if you loctite it in, it doesn't need to be touched again. If you don't loctite it, it will need to be screwed in again after a few hundred rounds (usually no more than a quarter to half turn in).
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