Pro2A

Practice makes perfect

I think all of your questions are answered in the article I did which documents the pistol grip conversion process I undertook when I got my Saiga: http://thrumylens.or...ersion-project/ Well it's a good start, but it says nothing about what kind of stock and grip you got....................

Just did some light filing, and it worked much better. Had to file the A setting quite a bit to get the gap/feed lips disappear, then the B filing was small and sweet......CLICK!!!

That is the pistol grip I intend on getting when I convert. Those grips are so comfy. Does that come as a whole kit with the stock too? And the adjustable cheek rest looks quite functional, I've never seen that before. What are the stats on the add-ons?

Good call, It's the same exact picture

Thanks for the location, if there's a fourth it's nowhere exposed. I have read it twice,......and exchanged emails

Oh my, 4?I can't find that hole, a recurring theme in life, HAHAHAHA Where would the 4th one be? Directly below the one in the middle, but towards the barrel end?

evlblkwpnz, I thought the other two "unseen" ports would be blocked, and the bevel would need to be filed a little, like you said.But before I started taking the whole thing apart, I tried the bent paperclip "tool", and I can put it in all 3 ports and clearly see it in the barrel when looking down it. And the clip comes right thru the holes, with no effort or wiggling. So in my amateur opinion, the ports or totally clear. I guess I'm leaning back to the polishing and removing rough edges step. I just don't want to remove the wrong rough edge. What year is the weapon? From what I've

evlblkwpnz, I thought the other two "unseen" ports would be blocked, and the bevel would need to be filed a little, like you said.But before I started taking the whole thing apart, I tried the bent paperclip "tool", and I can put it in all 3 ports and clearly see it in the barrel when looking down it. And the clip comes right thru the holes, with no effort or wiggling. So in my amateur opinion, the ports are totally clear. I guess I'm leaning back to the polishing and removing rough edges step. I just don't want to remove the wrong rough edge.

That's all well and good, but what in thee hell is in the jar behind the dremel?

I'm all for trying suggestions, and I'd like to start with the cheapest fix. I'm not against polishing the bolt, but I'd just like to have a cadillac "glassbolt" job done on it someday. I've just read elsewhere on the board that polishing didn't do much for them. Like Black Russian suggested, I'm wondering if it's a port problem. Is there such a thing as overgassed? Does that beat up or break the parts. I really tried to search for something like that and couldn't get any over gassing opinions. I took the best picture I could, and you can see the edges of the other two ports with the nake

Darn I was looking forward to this new plug he was designing. Are they out there yet?

Does anybody have any advice on this?

Not sure if I need the a or b, cause I can't even get the front catch to grab. It seems as though the sides are too wide. Would you recommend filing the sides down that only go in enough to clear the gun? FYI..... I also have to SGM 10 rounders that fit perfect, so I didn't want to do any filing on the gun in that spot.

OK, only put about 30 hi brass, and 50 low brass through it. I used setting 1 for hi brass, and setting 2 for the other, I think that's the way I read it here. I've been through quite a bit of those posts, thanks for the welcome.

So I followed the forum advice, and took my brand new Saiga 12 out of the box and went from hi brass down to cheap federal game loads. Hi brass went well with out a single problem. Cheap game loads would not cycle about 90% of the time. Low brass doesn't work well on either setting. Should I go the cheap route first, and put in the reliability kit for about $50, or pay to have Pauly do the expensive polish job? After studying videos, and many many posts, I learned and understand all aspects of the gun, except for the gas ports. Should that be the first problem to addres

Hmmmm, sounds like quite a "non scientific" change for the better. Thanks for the opinion

CSS advertises both of these as the best brake for recoil reduction. I'm sure they both perform what their designed for, but does anybody have any first hand experience in dealing with both or any of the two, as to which is better? If they both perform equally, then I'd rather get the cheaper one, as I'm looking specifically for recoil reduction.

I see That sounds like a perfect solution Thanks, that's perfectI didn't know there was a mag that small available

I don't have anything to compare it to, but it's like GunFun said, MD comes with complete instructions, and video links to hold your hand.I haven't done any fitting yet, but it is easy to load. I'm still on a learning curve with this and two SGM 10 rounders, and after about 80 rounds loaded its becoming quite clear about the little intricacies. The feel for it comes naturally. BTW, my MD 20 rd drum came quickly, and works smoothly, as far as loading. Two thumbs up

Specifically called "for sale and trade" Just from the few months I've been educating myself, I don't think you ever go wrong with Pauly's, Cobra 762, Lonestar Arms

I didn't know the Saiga could be used for hunting. I thought the smallest mag was the factory 5 rounder. Is there a smaller one, or is this legal? I have a friend at work that dove hunts too.

Heavy or not, they claim it is the best for recoil reduction.Is there something out there that tested same or better?

I was wondering if this was a miracle fix gimmick. It sounds like it is, and very useful. Since it sounds like there much more positive review/opinion than bad, I'll be getting one now

Well, I jumped on that bandwagon Previously, I was on at least three notification lists with no response in sight