breid1970

Thanks guys. I will throw a picture or two on to show how old this press is and the powder.

Thanks Montec. I will check out your posts.

I will check out the Speer. The die in question is the final die that seats and crimped. I Have not had any trouble with the resizing. Thanks for the tip on the manual. I had debated getting a lee multistage but for 100 bucks I couldn't pass this up.

I would get an M1A Scout and a good bit of ammo and a decent optic, but that's just me. I like those older rifles. Or an Aug, I have loved that rifle from back when i started reading the Deathlands novels.

So basically at this point I have no problems getting the correct OAL, just that pesky crimp. Building my own tumbler this weekend and I clean my used brass with boiling hot water, dawn and lemon juice. If I am in doubt as to the cleanliness of the inside I just use acetone to finish the job. I'm making a reloading journal too keep track of the specific rounds I reload ie OAL, weight, charge, and projectile. I'm going to keep it simple by reloading only .380, 9mm, 38 cal, and 5.56. I do have dies for 308 win, 275 roberts, 25.06, 30.06 and 22-250. i don't shoot them but i will keep them i

I bought the press an old Rock Crusher that's probably 20-30 years old. It has been sitting in some coworkers attic for the past 15 and came with no manual just a box of parts and a mishmash of dies and equipment. You make some pretty unfounded statements and I don't know what press your using but Every video and guide I have looked at and read, yes I can and do read jackass, says the exact opposite of what you just stated. That being said I'm not going to debate or argue with someone who intentionally just tries to be an asshole and drops bad info. To Monty and Capt. Hero and HB thanks

definitely .38. Using a hornady 3 piece set. I know the first one with the protruding pin is for extracting the primers, that seems simple enough. The second one is for gaping the brass and the third seats and crimps. I think i need to get the whole process down better. i place brass in the press and raise it up. Then i screw down the die until it hits the top of the brass and back it off a half turn. I lock in the die and lower it and place the projectile. I raise it back up and then screw down the top part of the die till it meets the top of the round.I then cycle the press pull it ou

Ok, so I am no expert when it comes to reloading. My first real attempt was today and i was doing 38 cal 125g. Everything seemed ok, except for some of the actual projectiles after seating and crimping would still spin a quarter turn before locking down. Is that normal? Using a RCII press with hornady 3 piece die set.

Please for your own sake and hers don't take mental health advice from the net. My wife IS a psychologist and after reading this shook her head and walked away.

i spent 13 years, most as a grunt, some as MCSF, and a few at Paris Island as a Weapons Instructor at on the Hue City combat rifle course. I imagine it has changed quite a bit since then. The HnK is sweet, I still remember field testing the M9 before it has the half moon slide stop. Watching a slide cycle back and then just keep going never really sold me on that pos.

When I served as an 0311/51 we were just taught center mass. When I went to MCSF that's when I was taught failure to stop drills. My son is a grunt with 3/7 I will have to ask him what the doctrine being taught today is. Yep the boy confirms it.. Man have things changed over the years. Back in my time we were drilled center mass, center mass, center mass. Now days i suppose with the advent of better optics and technology failure to stop drills have become easier. We practiced ours with the older berretta 92Fs. I hated that gun...

I said it once and I will say it again. Failure to stop drill. Two center mass 1 to the head. If its good enough for Marine Corps Security forces its good enough for me.

Hey Stormi I can not find that item for that price. Cheapest I found was 28'bucks.

I like that idea, but what keeps that clamp from sliding up and down other then tension?

Ok, so once you unscrew it, the barrel lifts off and its stays attached to the barrel...There are no other attachment spots on the barrel at all. This perplexes me. There is a hole, I believe it is threaded. I will check out the local fleet farm to find a way to attach a swivel to it. Thanks Chevy.

The barrel has a ring, with the magazine cap attached. Once you unscrew the cap it stays attached to the barrel which you can remove. The end cap free spins on the barrel assembly and for the life of me I can not think of how to get it off. Sad isnt it.

Ok, I have a Mossberg 500 tactical. Full extended tube goes to the end of the barrel. Now it does not come with a sling swivel on the end of it and I want to attach one to it. But, low and behold the tube cap does not come off. Once I remove the barrel the tube cap stays on the barrel assembly. The cap just free spins till I put the barrel back on to it.. Any help would be appreciated.

Ok, I have a Mossberg 500 tactical. Full extended tube goes to the end of the barrel. Now it does not come with a sling swivel on the end of it and I want to attach one to it. But, low and behold the tube cap does not come off. Once I remove the barrel the tube cap stays on the barrel assembly. The cap just free spins till I put the barrel back on to it.. Any help would be appreciated.

I only own a twenty guage pump. But it does not go pew pew. If they desire this fine piece of american firearm engineering they can gladly have it.

As in a kabota? We use them at our prison. Not sure of the off road capabilities.

???

I still practice failure to stop drills. Two to the chest one to the head.

Call a lawyer. And just shut your mouth till he arrives.

I refer to training and rarely if ever take internet advice. But that's just my personal opinion.

5.56, .22l, 17hmr, 9mm, 00buck.