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BuffetDestroyer last won the day on September 20 2012

BuffetDestroyer had the most liked content!

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969 Excellent

About BuffetDestroyer

  • Rank
    Re-Animated Cadaver Control Specialist
  • Birthday 03/01/1980

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Reno, Nevada
  • Interests
    I love shooting and tinkering on my collection.

    Shooting is pretty much the most fun you can have with your clothes on.
  1. If you ever plan on selling them, don't chop either. If they are going to be in your collection forever, I would go with the 21".
  2. My reason was the same reason I didn't get a VEPR 12 when they were $749 shipped - I already own my Saigas and the cost to get one was too high when considering mags and accessories despite the cool factor of having many of the whistles and bells that took me years to add to my Saigas. Will I regret that decision? Perhaps. I personally believe that enterprising individuals will figure out ways to import this stuff around the EO if Saigas are going for $1,500. ETA: The people I feel super bad for are the folks whose businesses are dependent on these weapons being available & prevalent!
  3. It is basically the same as a mag coupler then and you are shooting it in its original imported condition with factory mags, so I don't think there should be any 922r compliance issues.
  4. I'm not quite sure what you are asking but a gun can't have more than 10 foreign parts, so you can't double count a magazine because you are just adding 3 more parts to it even if they are all US made.
  5. Not quite sure about the "Concern" part, but having Mikhail's last name on my AK is definitely a good thing!
  6. Thanks Squishy! Let us know how they are when you get them. I will wait 'til next week at the gunshow before I decide if I am going to order some.
  7. I have a big gun show coming to town next weekend and I usually pickup the Winchester Ranger buckshot when I'm there which works in the Saiga 12, but is much more expensive and therefore not as freely and quickly dispersed at the range.
  8. Hi guys! I came across the Spartan Buckshot on gun-deals and was curious if anyone here has any experience with it in the Saiga 12. The pictures look like it is star crimped instead of roll crimped, which is good for our drums vs. other discount rounds like Rio Royal or S&B/Wolf. SGAmmo shows it in a drum working on Youtube. Has anyone here personally tried it in your Saigas? Any issues? It appears to be low brass, so how is the power? Pricing is $100-$120/250, so it is priced right for range use. Sorry for the watermarked pic, but it showed the crimp best.
  9. To the OP... if you want to get into suppressors and full autos, a quick post like what you have done is fine for preliminary research but you have a long, long way to go. There are dedicated forums like NFAtalk.org that will answer every step of the process (you just have to read) and even the NFA board here has tons of useful information from people that have been through the process numerous times. The ATF website also has the majority of the paperwork and regulations available for download as well. The hearsay on the Internet and in gun stores that all your Constitutional Rights go up in smoke is OUTRIGHT BULLSHIT and NOT TRUE! The NFA stamps are not digital at this point and there is not an evil database of all the targets the government wants to snuff out first because we have NFA weapons. It took 11 months and two weeks to process my paperwork for a simple change of address on one of my suppressor stamps - I had gotten another stamp at my new address in the meantime before they processed my change of address. You do have to go through lots of legal hoops and paperwork and it is expensive, but worth the benefits that SBR's, Suppressors and Autos offer if you are a true collector or use the weapons for other legal purposes like hunting, recreation, defense or training. SOT is not something to take lightly as you will face serious legal and financial troubles if you are using it to build your own collection and not operating it as a business. If you are operating an SOT out of your house (rather than a commercial building), this is the only time where the ATF can legally inspect your home without a warrant. FUN FACT: The Supreme Court ruled that felons cannot be convicted of NFA charges on a Form 1 - only state "Felon in Possession of a Firearm" related charges (most that have much smaller penalties) due to the NFA process requiring felons to violate their 5th Amendment rights and self incriminate themselves if they manufacture an NFA weapon out of a weapon they already illegally possess (Haynes v. United States, 390 U.S. 85 1968).
  10. Yeah, 10,000 rounds with no failures from a Bushy with Federal is pretty dismal results - All AR's should be scrapped and thrown into the ocean!
  11. Here are some good reviews of some of the Model 10 rifles: http://www.snipercentral.com/sav110fp.htm http://www.snipercentral.com/sav10pc.phtml http://www.snipercentral.com/sav10fcpmcm.htm http://www.gunblast.com/Savage10FP-LE2.htm To compare features, check out the Savage website: http://www.savagearms.com/firearms/models/
  12. Rayne, the exceptions to barrel wear would be in new tricks like melonite coatings, polygonal rifling etc. Additionally, moly bullets (not a fan personally) and just shooting lower velocity rounds will help save wear on your barrel. If you are pushing over 3,000 fps, then your max accuracy likely won't last as long as a rifle pushing out 2,600 fps. There are barrels that last closer to 5,000 and you may still keep sub MOA for even longer. However, the maximum accuracy potential is typically best between 200 rounds and 2,500 rounds on most barrels. The new stuff hasn't really been extensively used and tested enough to really take over the industry standards of Chrome Moly and Stainless barrels. I will state that most people will never outshoot their rifles' accuracy capabilities on a good build. If you walk away with anything, re-read what I just stated. There are numerous factors that play into it and the big two are the shooter's ability and the quality of ammo. A good rifle with its perfect load may be capable of sub quarter MOA, but most decent shooters can't do better than .5 to .75 MOA. At 3,000 rounds the rifle may then be only capable of .5-.75 MOA and the shooter wouldn't ever know that the capabilities of their rifle loosened that much. The reason why I mentioned the Savage complete rifle is that you can actually work on it yourself and put in an aftermarket barrel if you want for less than $150 in parts/tools (wrench and match headspace gauges). This allows your investment to continue working for you, rather than having to sell it off and start over. I will say however that Savage typically has really good consistent barrels and the accu-trigger is awesome out of the box so you are getting a capable rifle up front to learn on. The action is not considered the best by the high-end builders, but it is very capable for the more budget minded shooter that wants to upgrade it later. Remington puts out barrels that are very erratic, even on their 700P line (the tactical one with the bull barrel), so you might luck into a half MOA or you might get a 1.25-1.5 MOA shooter with match factory ammo (I've shot both and you are more likely going to run right around 1 MOA which is the best your rifle gets without barrel upgrades even with an HS Precision or McMillan stock). That is why I didn't recommend a factory 700 rifle to start with, plus the X trigger is not as nice as the Accu-Trigger out of the box, but it is adjustable if you know what you are doing. Tikka's are guaranteed 3-Shot MOA at the factory and Sako's are guaranteed 5-Shot MOA at the factory. Cooper is another company that guarantees accuracy and they ship with a 30 yard 3 shot target of that rifle with the actual load used written on it. These rifles in the $550-$1800 range are more oriented towards hunting than long range tactical (with the exception of the TRG series from Sako), but if you are learning - the shooting skills are the same regardless of the ergonomics/stock/contour/interface differences. 700 and Surgeon Actions are probably the most widely used for precision rifle builds and will run from about $400-600+ for the actions themselves with no triggers/barrels/stocks or other components. So for about a few bucks more, you can get a complete rifle that you can upgrade later (namely the barrel and stock) that will get you through the basics of long range precision shooting. I have seen builders buy shitty used rifles for cheap to strip for the action alone. (ETA - decent triggers that are comparable to the AccuTrigger will run about $150-$200) Lastly for every extra $1000 you spend on your rifle, you are not getting huge gains in accuracy potential. Consistent 5 shot groups at .6 MOA vs .45 MOA may cost you an additional $3,000 to get. You might get a more consistent cheekweld or trigger angle approach, but a good shooter will overcome the ergonomics of a rifle and still get the best out of a rifle whether it has a monte carlo hunting stock or an Accuracy International chassis. .45 MOA and 1 MOA are both in the 10 inch circle at 1,000 yards if you do your part and read your environment correctly, which is a skill that your rifle's accuracy can't help with (unless you learn on a completely shitty rifle of course). A rifle is considered capable as a sniper rifle if it holds 1 MOA and many inexpensive factory rifles are completely capable of this and better.
  13. If you are buying a Krieger barrel and putting together a quality rifle, I wouldn't waste my time with that optic unless you plan on building a benchgun that you precision roll your own loads by hand weighing each component on precision equipment. For man-size targets, that scope will not do you any favors at high power. Get a Nightforce or IOR that maxes under 25x (or any of the European glass like Ziess, Meopta, Swarovski) if you plan on spending that kind of money. If you don't like them, they retain their value rather than dropping about 40-50% in the used market like most Chinese scopes. Super Sniper is a great budget option to learn on and you will get most of your money back when you decide to upgrade. Also 1/8 MOA clicks are going to annoy you as you will have hundreds of clicks to get out to distance. Go for 1/4 MOA or .1 Mil adjustments. For practical shooting, a fixed 10x is all you need to your distance on man-sized targets. If you want to become a benchrest guy, then you can opt for the powers over 20x. I am willing to bet that you will be sorely disappointed thinking a 50x scope is going to help you as you will see your heartbeat shake the world and it will take you 10 minutes to find a new target, not to mention clarity and contrast is going to look like Vaseline. Clarity is more important than magnification. A good 10x or 15x scope with good quality glass will allow you to see your holes at 300 yards. Regarding your questions, 4 vs. 5 r is how many grooves you have in the barrel. The lower the ratio of barrel twist, the longer and heavier the bullets you can use. It means there is one full rotation of the lands per every _ inches of barrel. A 1 in 10 is ideal for .308 so you aren't capped at 168's or 175's (grains). The longer heavier bullets typically experience less drop and wind drift than what you see in most hunting and target ammo as they have a higher ballistic coefficient. Check out http://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmtraj-5.1.cgi and plug in some potential loads to see what your trajectory and wind drifts are at different velocities. This is one of the most important learning tools in shooting past 300 yards. Remember that when a bullet approaches the sound barrier, the sonic pressure wave goes away and destabilizes the bullet. Where you go trans-sonic is usually your maximum distance before accuracy goes to hell. At 1,000 yards, a 20" .308 with a moderately warm load for 155 Grain Scenar or 175 grain match king bullets should stay supersonic well past 1,000 yards before it destabilizes. However the more barrel length, the faster your velocity, which makes it require less dope or compensation for wind and bullet drop. I will second the Savage recommendation (maybe an Model 10fcp-k - it has 24" barrel, accutrigger and accustock) and put a 10x Super Sniper on it. Get the rifle in .308 and try Federal Gold Medal Match, Black Hills and Hornady match loads. For under $1,200 for the rifle/scope rig, you will have a great shooting rifle to learn on that will retain a big chunk of its value and you could later upgrade yourself with better components like a Krieger barrel (need a special wrench and headspace gauges), HS Precision stock, etc. Good target barrels don't stay tight for max accuracy for very long (compared to the field lives of military barrels at 10-30k rounds). Your max accuracy period will likely be 2-3000 rounds - after that it will still shoot, but the groups won't be as tight as they once were. If you learn on a custom built rifle with a Krieger, you probably won't be using it near to its potential until several hundred rounds or possibly into the thousands of rounds. If you don't reload, it is going to get really expensive really quickly (match loads cost between $1 and $3+ per round and you can load them for under $.60/round with the same components) so the cheaper rifle will allow you to learn how to do that for when you do get that $2500+ custom rifle built.
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