cav01c14

Does your bolt close fully when you slowly let it close or does it stop just before full battery? I did everything to get my 20 to run on cheap Wally bulk birdshot and finally got it. Take the bolt apart and cut half a coil off the extractor spring. It should close effortlessly now and you shouldn't run into any issues of it not ejecting the shell. *do this at your own discretion as I am not a gunsmith I just did what worked for me *

Mine does now. No issues what so ever. If you have issues the first thing I would try is buy an extra AK extractor spring and cut the one you have now. Take off half a coil or so just enough to make the extractor have a little less tension.

Nice score I bought mine the same way and then converted it. I did a lot to get it to run right and I never could make it 100%. That is until I decided to trim the extractor spring. You see I did everything to this gun. I use it for three gun so it was embarrassing to have it malfunction during a shoot. The main issue I had was it would not always eject a shell right away. Then the issue was when the action would close it wouldn't lock up resulting in the trigger being able to be pulled but the hammer not striking the firing pin. Once I swapped out that spring it closed like butter a

Well I picked this bad boy up the other day and got to say I am pretty impressed. The dot locks up solid and held tight so far. I just used my laser bore sight and down the hallway roughly 30 ft I would say. I then set the dot a bit higher. I took it out and was able to hit the clays pretty well. I don't have it completely dialed in and was wondering if there is any specific range I should? I was thinking 50yds with some slugs and see how it patterned with some #2 for waterfowl. My saiga has a 22in barrel and I believe a full choke but not positive. Anyways here how it looks and I must say I

So cobra should I reprofile the hammer down a bit more. It still pushes the hammer down almost a 1/4 to 1/8 more then it needs to so it still catches? If I go to far on the hammer I can always replace it easy enough. I just wanted to make sure I wouldn't run into any other problems. I know to keep the flat spot and not to mess with the angle at the front of the hammer.

It doesn't happen during operation but it is not cycling 7/8 shot loads. It will cycle 1oz shot. I was just wondering what it might be so I can squeeze every last ounce of power so it cycles everything.

Also only other thing I can think that I changed was the safety with the bho.

Does anyone have any ideas? Not sure why it is hanging up here quite possibly could be the hammer? I have noticed when I pull it all the way back without the recoil spring in that it will pop out of the rail a bit on the left side of the gun. Like the hammer is pressing on the bottom of the bolt. It's a G2 hammer and I thought I polished it well enough. I even took some material off a bit to contour it like factory. Do you think I need to take more material off the hammer? It still pushes down the hammer further then it needs to be able to reset. I really think I need to take

I got mine to run on 1oz low brass and have no issues with high brass. Was it the CSS mags you were having issues with? Don't sell but if you do let me know ha.

Are you shooting 3 in in the CSS spec mags ?

For hunting this fall I just used my 5rd 3in mag and broke a pencil in half and stuck that in between the spring and the follower. Just make sure you can't load more then 2 shells in it and you should be golden.

I can only run mine on 1oz won't cycle on 7/8. Looks good lot of work polishing that thing. What do you mean the op rod extension?

Which new ten rounders do you have? I'm currently using CSS and the only issue I had was fitment which I took care of with a file. Are you using the polymer ones that are on ebay?

Superglued the mag back together with some loctite super glue and wrapped it with a piece of gorilla duct tape. Two boxes of full auto and it's still holding strong. I must say the CSS mag is nice just wish it was easier to load as you can't do it on a closed bolt.

I would think upside down would be like blocking the gas ports or setting one on the stock knob. I thought the whole point was to set and forget

What do you mean? Is difficult to find 20 ga rounds? Walmart always seems to have them and my local gun shop usually has pretty good deals on bulk 20. If you meant finding a hand guard for a 20 well that's also a pain. But it's just the space that slides into the front of the receiver that is different. The screw is in the same place for both the 12 and 20

The only difference is where it slides into the receiver. I bet if you talk really nice to CSS they may even be able to get you the right block that fits the 20. I know mine on here has two small screws holding the piece on. It's just the thicker barrel of the 12 takes up more room.

Try a 1911 colt recoil spring. It solved my issues on my 20 gauge. Only thing that worked for me at least.

They are pretty sweet clear and you can see them just need a bumpski so you can watch how fast they load!

I really wanted some but couldn't find any so I went with the 10 rd CSS mags. I would paint them black if I were you I can't stand clear lol

It's from Carolina shooter supply. Most the parts I ordered from them. They make the forearm in house I believe. The only issue I had with mine was it was made for a 12 gauge. Really easy fix I took a paint stick and a piece of plastic superglued together and then glued to the forearm where it slides into the receiver. Tightened it back up and haven't had a problem since. Get in touch with CSS I even think they have a top rail to make it a quad rail.

Nope it was unthreaded when I got it. I wish it was threaded though sure would be nice. Why does it look awful? To flashy lol? I was hoping the color to be a bit more bronzish copper then the orangish copper but I think it looks pretty good. Has a good contrast with the black. What else don't you like what's wrong with the barrel? To long lol? I guess it's not for everyone I refinished it like this to take to the trap range and turn heads sure as shit gets the job done. I love shooting league with it everyone gives me crap right away but when the clays start turning to little bits off d

I did the something if you are still having issues cycling and have done everything try a 1911 stock recoil spring. I changed mine out on my saiga 20 and it can cycle anything now even when bump firing.

Well I superglued it back together and took it blackout to try. It handled 2 fully loaded bumpski mag dumps and is still in one piece. Think I will wrap it some duct tape just to be on the safe side. Doesn't look pretty but it works. On the plus side picked up a cssmetal mag and fitted it last night. Looks really good with the metal bumpski hope it feeds as well as my russian mag