JonWienke

Air Force, removing fiberglass insulation from aircraft A/C ducts in 100+ degree heat. Most of the ducts were overhead, ensuring you got liberally covered with shredded fiberglass every day. I itched for months. And a decade later in the Army, babysitting elderly dementia patients and changing their diapers.

Carolina Shooters Supply has a variety of conversion kits. If your gun will cycle with low brass wal-mart target ammo right now, conversion is pretty simple. The only hard part is drilling out the rivets securing the old trigger guard and the cover plate where the new trigger will go. The rivets are pretty tough steel and a cheap drill bit will walk off the rivet and scar up the receiver. You'll want a cobalt bit (CSS sells one) or else something carbide. Once you get the rivets out, the hardest part is getting the bolt holdopen , the holdopen spring, hammer, and hammer spring lined up so

The ProMag 12-round drums are actually quite good. They feed reliably and are quite compact--they stick out below the receiver about the same as the factory 5-round stick mag. Mine have been trouble-free with ammo powerful enough to cycle the gun. I also have 2 of the MD Arms 20-round drums, and while they are reliable and seem pretty tough, they do add noticeable bulk and weight to the gun. You definitely want a vertical front grip if you run them; it makes reaching around the drum much easier. The CSSPECS stick mags are excellent. The only caveat with them is that you may get rim loc

If your buddy can't run low brass with the stock plug, the TAC-47 will NOT help. Its purpose is to allow you to run a wide variety of ammo without adjusting anything AFTER the gun is capable of running the ammo. That said, this is where I got mine, and while the shipping took a day or two, I had my plug in hand less than a week after I ordered it.

So far, I've got the upper and lower (and their parts kits) BCG, and a free-float handguard. I just had to expand my search outside the places I normally get such things because they were out of stock. Right now, I'm looking for a 20-24" barrel with rifle-length gas and MOA or better accuracy potential that isn't stupid expensive. Looking to shoot long-range with this build; I have lots of other options I'd prefer for CQB (like a Saiga) than a shorty .308.

You do know there are things like password resets if you're having login issues. Creating a new account is usually only done when there is some kind of baggage associated with the old one.

After building a double-digit number of AR-15s, I decided to change up a bit and build an AR-10. But parts seem to be out of stock in most places. I had to try about 15 sites before I found matched lowers & uppers in stock, and the same with carbine buffers and springs. Barrels are in short supply, also. Is there something going on, or did everyone else decide to build a .308 AR the same time I did?

I've already gotten the gun pretty well broken in (about 500 rounds so far, ~300 of which were 2.75" high brass or 3" magnums), so it's not going to slick up much more than it already is unless I grind even more off the hammer. But I don't plan on doing that because if I did, the hammer probably wouldn't catch the disconnector any more. I'm planning on having the barrel shortened, and the Phantom flash hider permanently attached to bring the barrel to 18.25". So those extra-large ports may come in handy.

This is probably not going to end well for the state, for the simple reason that law enforcement officers don't have to be within their jurisdiction or "on duty" to arrest someone if an individual commits a felony in their presence. So while the PA cop's powers of arrest are more limited than a NJ cop while he is in NJ, he still has that authority in limited circumstances.

The only plausible way to get a replacement cap is to either buy another sight and cannibalize the cap from it, or else contact the manufacturer to see if you can get another one. There's too many variables with thread diameter, thread pitch, and battery contact geometry to expect to randomly find a compatible cap off something else.

Shells rattling is normal for any drum. The sprocket design means that the rounds in the drum itself are not under tension, only the last 2 rounds in the feed tower. THe 12-round drum is my favorite overall magazine. 50-100% more than a standard magazine tube, but small enough to not snag on things if used in confined spaces (HD/SD). And as long as you fit them to the gun properly, they are reliable. Promag hit a home run with this product.

I test fired the Saiga today. The hammer reprofiling seems to have done the trick. With the CSS 6-position manual regulator in position #6, I was able to run a full MD-20 drum of Wal-Mart Federal 1-1/8oz bulk pack with no malfunctions, average ejection about 5 feet. I was also able to run a MD-20 drum of Wal-Mart Winchester 1oz bulk pack with only 1 FTE, average ejection 2-3 feet. I still need to get the Tac-47 auto plug adjusted so that it will run both bulk pack low-brass and 3" magnums reasonably But I ran out of ammo and daylight...

If you have a cheek rest on the stock this the same height as the receiver cover, you can shoot with the stock fully retracted without anything hitting you in the face.

You could also spice up a campfire...from a safe distance.

1000 rounds of S&B .300 Blackout FMJ from sgammo.com. $500 with shipping.

Actually, .300 Blackout is best for that.

Not all Eotechs have the defect. I've checked mine against the co-witnessed irons after several heating & cooling cycles (AKA shooting outdoors in single-digit temps, then bringing the gun inside) and the point of aim on the sight hasn't moved. So I'm not sending mine in for a refund, but there other sights I would buy first going forward.

A bit of caution is in order here. My dad and I did that a few years ago with some corrosive-primed WWII-vintage .45ACP rounds no one wanted to run through their pistol. While shooting at the back end of the rounds, my dad hit one dead-center on the primer. The .22 and .45 bullets went their merry way into the backstop, but the case came back and hit my dad in the knee hard enough to break the skin slightly and leave a nice bruise. Range was between 10 and 15 yards.

It's the ejector. If it isn't tall enough to engage the shell rim you'll need to have someone who really knows what they are doing make it taller via additive welding. It's an advanced-level welding skill, especially on something that small.

I've test-fired with the rail and the factory handguard, and there was no difference in cycling, so yes, I've ruled that out as a variable. A loose grip/hold degrades reliability with Federal low brass from 95% to about 50% with the factory 5-round magazine. My expectation is that with the gas ports the size they are, it should be able to cycle Winchester bulk pack reliably even if held one-handed by a kindergartener, without chaining it to a tree or filling the stock with lead. No recoil buffer.

YOT, I'm not ruling things out because I don't think the ideas have merit, I'm ruling things out because I've already tried them and verified that they are not the cause of the problem. After comparing your hammer to mine, I pulled it out and rounded the corners so it looks like yours. When the bolt carrier comes back, it's now going about 1/16" past the disconnector catch instead of the 3/16" it was traveling before, and I made sure the hammer still hits the bolt tail squarely. The change in geometry seems to make the hammer easier to cock. The handguard is a free float. There is abou

Last I checked, China was a Communist country, and the companies that produce iPhones are de facto government entities, even if they are nominally privately owned. China's government has been subsidizing their "private" companies for decades with cheap forced labor as well as cash as a form of economic warfare, allowing them to compete unfairly on the world market against companies that actually pay their workers. And Congo is a hellhole run by warlords and their armed gangs, who use slave labor to dig diamonds and other minerals, which is just slightly different than how things are done i

I was thinking this a while back, but no one ever wants to hear it. I've ruled out the handguard as a possible factor. It's clamping on the barrel, not the gas tube. Installing it had no effect on cycling--it didn't make it any better, but it didn't make it any worse, either. There are no pins coming out of the bolt dragging anywhere on the carrier or action. The paint on the rails wore off the contact points long ago. I haven't cleaned the action since the last range session Sunday afternoon. I looked at the hammer more closely, and it is moving about 3/16" away from the disconnec

I've verified that the quad rail isn't binding the gas tube. With the gas block off, the gas tube can slide fore and aft with the rail mounting clamp installed and tightened. It's clamping the barrel, but not the gas tube. When I hand-cycle the action and let the charging handle forward slowly (letting the springs push it forward instead of my hand) the only place there is any sticking whatsoever is when the extractor hits the front of the slot in the trunnion and detents out when the bolt carrier is about 1/2" from the fully forward position. And it only does that if I ride the handle for

OK, I've done everything I can think of. I've polished the bolt and carrier and hammer (Tapco G2, modified by CSS to fit Saiga). Pulling back the charging handle is smooth, and the bolt will ride forward with no hesitation. I'm using the stock springs and spring guide. I drilled out the gas block so that all of the ports in the barrel are visible and clear. I've tried the stock gas puck, the CSS reliability kit puck, and the MD Arms booster puck. My gun has 4 ports, which I've enlarged to .110" so far. The barrel is the stock 19" with a Phantom flash hider attached.