Milsurps 4 Me

Some FEG AMDs had a lousy job done on the single to double stack machining. I'm pretty sure they were made oversized to accomodate the polymer US made mags so it can be sold as 922r compliant. I've got one thats so wide that with a little force I can pull a steel 20 round mag out w/out hitting the release. IMO the best option for an AMD is to build your own on a Nodak receiver.

I broke a 6-32 Craftsman tap in a trunnion and couldn't smash it out no matter how hard I tried. I ended up going to the local hardware store and getting a pointed diamond Dremel engraving/cutting bit and dug directly into the tap and instantly saw grey powder start building up. I was able to grind into the hole enough to finally drive the rest of the tap out with a punch, then went with an 8-32 drill bit/tap combo from Irwin. This is the Dremel bit I used: http://www.dremel.co...l.aspx?pid=7134

I've snapped 1 tap out of about a dozen trunnions I drilled and tapped and the one that failed me was a Craftsman combo. Plenty of oil, even reaming the hole, it snapped while backing it out and it took grinding with a diamond Dremel bit to remove enough of it to smash out with a punch. IMO the kits Dinzag sells are great. I've used a combo I got from him a few times and had no issues. Sharp bits and an easy cutting tap. I recently picked up a kit from CSS because I just moved and all my tools are packed up still. It was a Hanson tap in the kit and worked ok but I just feel more comfortabl

When I got my IZ 340 and saw how short the cleaning rod was I figured finally they're getting it right and I can make use of the cleaning rod with the rifle. Tonight I cut the sleeve off and put a 74 brake on but noticed the cleaning rod is 1/4" too long to fit. It'll fit if I snip the threaded end off but even though its a slim chance I'll ever use it, I kinda like the idea of being able to. Anyone make use of theirs? If do end up having to cut it back and re-thread the rod, does anyone know the thread size that will fit the cleaning kit brush?

Not sure if videos show up here but this was from today http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Y3WVZgVJgk&feature=share

Yep, SA2000 receiver. I ended up keeping it. Most steel mags fit sloppy but work, some don't, but all the polymer mags I have 20s, 30s, and 40s, fit good and function 100%. Its a cheap AK and I wasn't expecting precision. It was because after reading some horror stories on the net I just wanted it to work. Plus with the time and money I'd have spent sending it back, doing another transfer, gas, etc. I don't mind having a rifle that uses a certain type of mag. Its a cannon at the range and is fun as hell to shoot. I may end up building one in the future so I can have another and add the sling

I picked up an AMD 65 a few days ago and am trying to decide whether or not I should keep it or send it back. The mag well was done by TGI to accept regular AK mags but there are a few problems I can see right off the bat. A lot of my mags have some severe side to side wobble and it also looks like the selector stop plate is a little too thick which results in excess space at the mag catch. I can actually pull one of my 20 rounders out by pushing back on the magazine. Some mags fit better than others and don't feel too bad. Polymer mags like circle 10's fit the best. I thought somethin

I've converted just about every Saiga I can get my hands on and for some reason my S20 has developed a mean case of trigger slap. I have a Tromix drop in Tapco trigger and keep the setting on 1 since I usually shoot Winchester X slugs. I'm wondering if its the clear plastic 13 round mags I recently started using because I don't remember it being so bad with factory mags. I just can't see how the mag would make a difference.

Shes a lot happier with the PK-A.

It does need to be modified. I tried fitting mine tonight and realized its gonna need some Dremel work.

I picked up a 16" Saiga a few weeks ago and converted last week. Easy as hell to do and everything functions great. Only thing is its a beast to shoot without any kind of muzzle brake. I've threaded a 7.62x39 before so know the procedure and want to do both of my 308s but don't have a press available. I've read the info on Brian's (Dinzag) site about removing the FSB but am wondering how much of a PITA it is to do without a press. I've tried removing a pinned FSB from a 7.62x39 build before by tapping it forward but found it pretty much impossible. Drifting out the pins was

All the harder parts of a good conversion already done. I want one!

I haven't checked this section of the forum much since I started playing around with Saiga shotguns, but I'll be looking for another 308 soon and have seen quite a few pics of people using standard AK furniture including what looks like regular AK gas tubes. What type of gas tubes and lower HG retainers are you folks using?

I have a S20 that I did a conversion on recently and got 3 factory mags with it. One 2 3/4" and two 3". One of the 3" mags feeds perfect but one of them along with the 2 3/4" hangs up a little. Hulls tend to point to far upward ever so slightly on the first round only. Once teh first round feeds, the rest work fine. I was thinking either polishing the internals of the gun or some mag modification is needed. Something to make the ramp inside the mag angle a little further down. Has anyone experienced the same problem? I'm using 15 rd bulk packs of Federal ammo btw, slugs and shot.

I ended up going with black laminate for mine. The bullet guide I used was a heavily modified Bulgarian one for a flat trunnion. It feeds 100% and has a few hundred rounds through it. The only thing is now I want at least 2 more so I can have them in different configurations. I've already got a modern 7.62x39 and traditional, now I find myself going for the 5.45s.

The Krebs one looks like the one to go with since I don't want to use a folding stock. Its pricey though at $90. I just can't see cutting off the tang in case I ever want to switch the gun back to a standard AK style stock.

I was thinking about trying out a different stock set up like an Ace one for example on my 410 but it seems every receiver block I see requires cutting the tang. Are there any that allow keeping it w/out modding the receiver?

I installed my black laminate set today and the first thing I noticed was that Saigas must have a little more room for fit than the Romanian rifles these are labeled for. I didn't feel like tearing down my SAR1 to compare so I just went ahead with the installation on a Saiga 5.45 I have. There is plenty of movement in the upper handguard but it seems like it'll stay. I'll probably shoot it sometime this week to see how it works. If its real bad I'll make some kind of shims for it. One thing I noticed was the notch cut in the inside of the lower handguard. Looks almost li

How is this site to deal with? I decided to start searching for Saiga 2.5 mags since thats all I can seem to find for ammo in my area and Saigs stock is one of the first sites that came up. At almost $35 per mag its pricey but I suppose it'll save me cash in ammo in the long run.

Ever since I pinned a new AK front sight block on my S410 I've had to use some form of optics when shooting it because the rear sight was too low for use with the new front sight. Last night when I was cleaning up my work bench I saw something and had an idea. The tab end of an old Saiga trigger guard that I cut off looks like it'll make a decent enough ghost ring rear sight. Sure its a little thin but I think if I can bond it to the original rear sight it'll look ok and be high enough to use the AK FSB with. I know it sounds bubba but I can't find an elevated Saiga shotgun rear sight

I ordered one today. Your pic made up my mind for me. I have the black laminate stock set and now just need to figure out which Saiga to put it on.

I have the timbersmith brown laminate stock set on my 545 and personally think it looks great. It's good quality shit. I was stuck between the brown and black laminate, and the russian red wasn't available when I was converting otherwise I probably would of bought that. They also sell an unfinished set but I don't know the first thing about staining wood Sorry, my shitty camera doesn't do it justice What lower handguard retainer did you go with and how do you like it?

Doing a search on broken taps I found a machinists forum where some people mentioned diamond bits to remove the tap. I ended up getting a small thin Dremel diamond particle covered bit from Home Depot and decided to try it last night. After making contact with what was left of the tap I began to notice fine grey powder residue building up and knew it was working. I kept blowing off the residue with a can of compressed air so I could see what I was doing and in about 2 minutes I had gone deep enough to see a small hole where one of the flutes was. I dug the point of the bit in there and st

I bent the hell out of a few flat punches and even broke one. I went at it for about 10 minutes with them. I'm not too concerned with enlarging or ruining the hole because I plan on going up a size or worst case using the rivet that came with the Bulgarian guide. I'll look for a few better punches today at the local hardware shops. I haven't totally given up yet but am wondering about other options just in case. Has anyone ever welded a guide in place? I was thinking if I couldn't get the tap out maybe I could use a mig welder on it and put a few tack welds where the hole is in the

So I heard it happens to everyone at one time or another and tonight I snapped a tap in my 5.45 round trunnion. I can't get it out no matter what I've tried including whacking the tap with a punch to shatter it. I figured since it was a carbon steel tap it would shatter easily but I think its just too thin and theres too much of it. Its all the way through the trunnion. I even tried gently backing it out with needle nosed pliers from underneath but the tip that was sticking out snapped flush. Is there any other way I can install the bullet guide?