twinhairdryers

So i just picked up my SEG12 suppressor and can't figure out how to get my factory big 3pool slant and upward brake off. I can get the threaded brake itself off, and turn the two flat big washer at the end of the threaded adapter over end of barrel, but how do i get that threaded part off there? do i need heat, pipe wrench, other? I'm not very good gunsmith by the way. thanks much! Darin

So i just picked up my SEG12 suppressor and can't figure out how to get my factory big 3pool slant and upward brake off. I can get the threaded brake itself off, and turn the two flat big washer at the end of the threaded adapter over end of barrel, but how do i get that threaded part off there? do i need heat, pipe wrench, other? I'm not very good gunsmith by the way. thanks much! Darin

here are some candy pics by the way of the SEG12 on my bullpup. just got it. will give a range report when i get some shot through it.

So i just picked up my SEG12 suppressor and can't figure out how to get my factory big 3pool slant and upward brake off. I can get the threaded brake itself off, and turn the two flat big washer at the end of the threaded adapter over end of barrel, but how do i get that threaded part off there? do i need heat, pipe wrench, other? I'm not very good gunsmith by the way. thanks much! Darin

I'm a fairly new VEPR owner with < 1000 rounds through the pipe with mostly low power loads and am concerned about parts also. What are the parts the you guys who put volumes of lead through yours that you carry spares for that wear out with high round counts on these guns? and, where do you generally buy them?

so, what is this thing for 600 bucks? Cheetah Model CH12HF. from centerfire systems. looks sorta like a Saiga or the Turkish ones. Must a re-badged something or another but can't figure it out. Comes with the pistol grip. https://www.centerfiresystems.com/p-9511-cheetah-model-ch12hf-12ga-shotgun-with-19-barrel-with-free-sgm-tactical-forearm-and-muzzle-brake.aspx?keyword=sg0035&utm_source=Centerfire+Systems&utm_campaign=12d8e4010c-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2017_06_21&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_a17d16ad3c-12d8e4010c-128126093

ya, i used this site to generate the trust document. had it notarized and two witnesses signed. that was my question, is that as far as i need go with the form in order to submit it with my form4 paperwork as the ownership of the hardware? or do i need to submit the trust papers to the state of FL or otherwise register it somehow. Are you using flguntrust.com?

So, i have set up an NFA gun trust in order to start collecting some class 3 / title 2 toys like shorty Saiga-12s. There is a whole lot of info online with respect to these, but i can't find anywhere it says when your trust is active/binding/official. is it when you and your witnesses have signed with notary? do you have to file it with a court or submit it to state of Florida or anything?

Put your factory puck back in it and try it with the factory regulator. Secondly, you need to specify what loads you are using. High brass/low brass means absolutely Dick when referencing shot payload, speed or power. You could easily be using two different loads at the very extreme ends of the 12g shot shell spectrum and we wouldn't know the difference without actual shell specs. Thirds, are you by chance using some quad rail or tri rail hand guard? Fourth, what FCG are you using? If 3pc aftermarket, did you address the hammer issue? Lastly the D mod is not a hack job no matter how bad

So i picked up a new S-12 on an auction. Only tweaking was a bolt on AR buttstock and a rail system handguard. All else felt and smelled Izmash factory new and unmolested. Of course, i started my quest to save money to run low power low brass rounds through it. First took it out and pounded 4 boxes of 3" slugs through it as an early break in and make sure it runs high power stuff without issue. of course all passed. I fully disassembled it, and found 4 angles gas ports - good news my prior early gun only had 3 and i f-d up the drill down on the 4th but that is another story. I opened al

Then you're going to LOVE this. Long, but absolutely worth the read. http://lonelymachines.org/mall-ninjas/ Do NOT be drinking coffee during this read. hilarious stuff. my favorite quote is the guy who has a trauma plate duct taped to his back and says (The ducttape solution, although tactically sound, is hot and painful to remove. I would like to go to the single-plate solution in back. What I am worried about is repeated hits to that area with .308 ammunition.). Ya, i'd be a bit concerned quite a bit before this time..........

So, i bought one of the DHP so called auto-plugs that has 6 stamps on it flush with the gas block. When i screw it down tight i have a #3 showing where the spring and old detent piston is located. So, do i spin it out CC to 1 for my high brass loads setting, and keep spinning out from there to go lower down in power shells? By the way, i have no original spring and piston in the original stop. I like to be able to switch gas settings quickly without fingernails or tools, so i use nylon tape on the threads of my gas plug to keep it from spinning under recoil

I hate to go back to ground zero after all this, but when you say "and no matter how tight I cranked down the auto-plug, it wouldn't cycle the light loads". you are turning your auto plug outward to open up more gas port volume correct? by tightening, i picture going clockwise and moving the plug inward to reduce the gas for high power loads. I'm sure you are doing it right, but just wanted to double check based on your wording on that first post before the SHTF on this!

Good question. I tried a lot of searching for an XN bolt and no luck yet.

What's being discontinued from MD arms? brakes or drums? or drum breaks?

So, i've had my MKA-1919 i got from Centerfire now for about 6months. I had the normal break-in FTFs and FTEs for the first few boxes of ammo, and before i figured out how to tweak the mags a bit but overall i'm running low brass at a really good rate now with very few issues. I'm one to purchase spare parts for the weak links in all my guns i know i'll shoot a lot since sometimes parts can get really hard to find at times, especially for odd-ball birds like this one. i've tried to do some research reading back in this forum a ways and am trying to get together a list of common wear parts

I put a CMORE railway onto a 2ring shotgun barrel mount. very low line of sight, so it's flat out to a long distance. This is the only sight i found that can stand up to thousands of rounds of shotgun recoil. i have a whole box of other disintegrated peices of many other red dots including soviet side mounts/Kobras and such. This set up is a PITA to remove and re-install and hold zero, but if you don't have to muck with it much it works great. http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=426504476 Forgot to mention, the mount was 40bucks and the CMORE was about 210, so this

can you describe or show what is meant by this mod please? REQUIRES very slight, simple and easy carrier modification to fit correctly

So the one that still has the stock also has the trigger group and hammer/sear and such internals? or are those stripped out as well.

How to purchase?

So i see that Tony's general distributors for parts has been out of these Tromix Gas Booster Bushings for some time. anyone know who sells these, or if there is something similar out there for running low brass shells?

I got a new 10 rounder also that wouldn't stay in the well at all. i called Centerfire systems to see about it. they said to file the top of the feed lips down some. i tried that, no luck at all. i then tried filing some out of the hole in the side, and polished burrs a bit. no lucky. i then filed the top lip of the polymer back about 1/16 inch or so. that was the trick to this one. it was keeping the mag from going up far enough in the well to lock in. seems like there are a few possible fit areas that should be looked at on these. have yet to shoot it to make sure it handles shock b

So, i had a CSS alum front tri-rail handgaurd installed for quite a while without issues. Came with a non hardened 3/8" 5Mx0.8 socket head machine screw to secure it through the bottom gas block hole where the factory handgard installs. Had a front vertical mount on bottom of the rail and blew through an 8round mag of buckshot, and the damn handgard fell off! Turns out the front mount screw bent and sheared. I tried to use a pliers to back out the remainder of the screw, no luck. I dremelled the thing level with the bottom surface of the screw mount hole in the gas black - the protrusion

nice pics. your wife still looks hot as ever also. it's cool she can shoot it without the stock on with those triple FFF money bags.

Tritium - thanks for the list. If i can expand it some more, I have 7 other "supposed" 2 3/4 inch 1oz slugs in my supply - will try and provide inputs to update your PDF file. wonder if i'm fartin - thanks for your input as well. i also have had such great cycling and best accuracy with Rem slugger reduced recoil (now called managed in some more appropriate social committees and box markings) from my S-12 box mags that it is my first choice but hard to find at times. The black box Fioccochi has run nearly as good at that, and Brenneke KO is 3rd, but near impossible to find. Walfart v