IndyArms

Just the wife...

He might be able to, if he would have logged on here in the past three or so years...

There was a post someplace of the mod to fix issues like this... I believe COBRA was the one doing them way back in the day... ( like 8 years ago... ) I will see if I can find it...

Buy up a used set of wood off someones Saiga 308. The stock will fit with MINOR tweaking, and the forend needs to be tubbed out a little but WILL FIT... let me post a link to mine, there are in this section... HERE: http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/4498-saiga-20-gauge-with-308-wood-sweet/ Mind you... Mine was posted back in '05... back when we used to have to really figure everything out ourselves... there were ZERO bolt on goodies back then! LOL Others have done similar... wade through the posts... they are there.

no horrors of children killed by assault weapons... nothing newsworthy here... does not promote the gungrabber media agenda...so... nothing to see... move along move along...

The die itself "necks down" the case mouth undersized, so the expander brings it back to the exact inner diameter. If ya ream a die, you may not get the proper 'shrink' to resize back to, when reloading. If I were the OP.. I would order a second .308, as well as the .310/.311 expander if planning to cut off the decapping pin n the original.

Problem is... he doesnt need to hone out the DIE... he needs a LARGER expander. he has THIS: http://leeprecision.com/ez-x-exp-30-cal-med.html Needs one .310/.311 Since you are using a LEE sizing die... just ORDER a .310/.311 expander sizing insert... NOT a .308 one. They will be happy to send you one and it will still cost about 3 dollars for the " custom one" . Then when you get it, just loosen the collet at the top of the die, and swap them out. Will take you about 2 minutes. Then you will resize to the PROPER DIAMETER. and I promise you, your loads will work better. Pe

Yes... didnt even THINK of that... I had some 223 dies I had to buff out with a 45 caliber bore brush, in a drill and polishing compound because some numbnutz reloaded 15 or 20 rounds of WOLF steel cased boxer primed ammo... needless to say... it wont happen again. And yes... from JUST 15 to 20 rounds!!!!!

one thing you need to be careful of is loose case necks. THe case necks are resized to the proper spec before ANY bullet is inserted... so when you remove them, they may have stretched a little bit... and the bullet you replace will not have the proper neck tension on it... several issues could occur... ONE... improper pressure as its not held in the case mouth properly, TWO bullets could work out or in, depending on magazine, recoil forces, etc... creating pressure issues if the bullet is now seated too far deep, or not deep enough. And if not deep enough... you could get bullets that dislo

I butcher my own deer. ( at my friends house they taught me! ) in order of operation: Kill deer Gut Deer immediately! transport deer to friends house for rest of procedure... Hose out deer gut cavity, and entry and exit wounds with garden hose till absolutely as clean as you can get it Hang deer by neck in outside temperature garage, overnight, until ALL excess water has drained from carcass, use spanner board to keep gut cavity wide open, use fans to speed cooling and drying time. ( Don't bother lecturing on the rear leg gambrel hanging method. I know it, and its point

I have a few boxes of those still... Very consistent, and VERY ACCURATE!!!

So... the tenderloins are left inside, then, correct?? The 4 legs are quartered off, and the backstraps removed, and thats what ya get?

shouldnt.... you should be ok... but hard to say for sure

I am pretty sure I get ONE GOOD RUT... Which is why this topic started out at the get go! LOL My latest question was how do I know if a LSD is bad... THATS the ??

And HOW would I know this?? I cant seem to get my VIN to come up properly anywhere... ALL the dodge vin sites I have tried ( and I have tried about a dozen) either dont work, dont give me any more info than I already know... or tell me I have some strange car from the 70's.... So do I take it to the dealership and have them figure out exactly what parts my truck has per its VIN?

I would certainly have a qualified mechanic doing the work. I also think I will wait till spring, and see how the truck behaves over the winter as is, and then go from there. i do notice it usually has a "shudder" in the rear when I take off turning one way or another ( turning at an intersection) if I get on it too much. Easing into it, it doesnt do this... thoughts? rear wheel just overpowered and slipping a little between rubber and pavement??

One word.... FNORDS Just of the AUDIO variety. not the TEXT kind

I dont think I would want to be cutting a tracer round in half, by hand... wouldnt the oxygen ignite the phosphorus inside it???

Well, as odd as his sig line is... he hasnt really done anything, or posted anything spammish to warrant banning. I will ask his link be removed from the sig line. and if not... THEN he gets sent to the cornfield!

WOW!!! This is a NECROTHREAD!

How did the guy at the BEACH dig an 8 foot hole all by himself, when everyone else couldnt dig out 5???

I was really thinking a factory part myself from the beginning... but I figured if I was going to be swapping ANYTHING out... why not ask around and see if something BETTER was recommended... I am still as clueless as I was before! LOL it seems like theres WAY more options than I thought... but for different scenarios and such... I would prefer to NOT swap out the whole axle... just the guts in the rear pumpkin... as the body nd frame on this truck are like new... and chances are any junkyard around here with an '05 rear is going to be rusty...

Like I have been saying all along... I just want BOTH wheels to grab if I punch the gas... BUT.. I want them to work properly when making sharp corners. I do not plan to offroad, or abuse them... Just street driving, maybe a cut cornfield now and then... ( RARELY!!) My little nissan would spin BOTH back tires in 2 high when I would give it to it... and I loved the way it handled in all conditions... snow, ice, rain, mud, etc... I just want the new truck to handle SIMILARLY... and right NOW, I know that if pounce on the gas pedal only ONE wheel is going to spin.... I will certai

An LSD won't do that.. Here's a video showing the difference between a LOCKER and an LSD (picture a strip of ice down one side of the road, and not the other, or a boat ramp covered with algae on one side, and not the other). I won''t get hyper technical since you don't seem to be worried about the technology itself, just that it works and works well. An LSD is just like what it sounds like, LIMITED slip... The video above shows what that really means. A LOCKER is also what it sounds like, there are drive dogs that mechanically engage both axles until rotational speed on each axle i

I want this for DAILY DRIVING. And for more traction in the winters here in NY where we get snowy roads off and on. I just want POWER to BOTH rear wheels all the time. not like the TRUE differential I have in there now, where if I gun it, only ONE wheel provides drive... I am not looking for high performance, or huge tires, or off-roading. ( Sure I might need to drive through a field now and then, nothing CRAZY, though! ) nothing 4 wheel drive cant handle... I dont need cool noises, or flipping switches... I just want both rear wheels engaged all the time. ( And I assume LIMITE