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Found 19 results

  1. Jguff330

    Slide fire with Tromix conversion

    I got the tromix diy basic kit from CSS and I picked up the slidefire ssak-47 hybrid. i dropped it off to a local gunsmith and he called me to say he doesnt think they are compatible because the trigger guard blocks the slidefire grip. I'm no expert but to me it looks like the groove in the grip is so it can glide over that rectangle grip bolt mount. What do you guys think? In the meantime I need to try to find a good gunsmith.
  2. Saiga 12 gauge Semi automatic shotgun that has been extensively customized for performance. This is a converted Saiga 12. Here is the modification list: 1. Factory stock removed 2. Trigger group moved forward and replaced with G2 trigger group 3. Installed Tromix D-I-Y trigger guard and SAW pistol grip 4. Factory tang removed and internal ACE receiver block installed 5. Gas block removed and 4 gas ports opened to 5/64ths, retaining factory angle 6. Gas port aperture adjusted making all 4 ports visible 7. Smoothed rails that the bolt carrier travels on 8. Replaced factory gas puc with CSS puck 9. Replaced factory gas plug with autoplug 10. Replaced factory recoil spring with low recoil spring from reliability kit 11. Replaced factory main spring with JT engineering spring 12. Installed push-button folding mechanism and 8.5'' ace skeleton stock 13. Had Pauly re-profile trigger group, main spring, hammer, bolt and carrier (including a nice job making the trigger look match-grade) (see pictures). What is included: Saiga 12 including: JT engineering main spring. Pauly modified: trigger group, bolt, carrier, Krebs manual BHO, G2 hammer ACE 8.5'' skeleton stock 1'' recoil pad for ace skeleton Push-button folding mechanism SAW pistol grip Tromix D-I-Y trigger guard Autoplug CSS puck Enhanced recoil spring for reliability 12-round magazine Factory 5-round magazine This gun is in perfect working order. It cycles low brass with no problems, thanks to Pauly and the gas work done. It's a great shotgun and I will miss it, but I've got bills to pay. REDUCED: Asking $1100. + Shipping Must be sent to your FFL, or face to face transaction with proper ID. Will not ship to any state that does not allow their sale and please check your local laws.
  3. Saiga 12 gauge Semi automatic shotgun that has been extensively customized for performance. This is a converted Saiga 12. Here is the modification list: 1. Factory stock removed 2. Trigger group moved forward and replaced with G2 trigger group 3. Installed Tromix D-I-Y trigger guard and SAW pistol grip 4. Factory tang removed and internal ACE receiver block installed 5. Gas block removed and 4 gas ports opened to 5/64ths, retaining factory angle 6. Gas port aperture adjusted making all 4 ports visible 7. Smoothed rails that the bolt carrier travels on 8. Replaced factory gas puc with CSS puck 9. Replaced factory gas plug with autoplug 10. Replaced factory recoil spring with low recoil spring from reliability kit 11. Replaced factory main spring with JT engineering spring 12. Installed push-button folding mechanism and 8.5'' ace skeleton stock 13. Had Pauly re-profile trigger group, main spring, hammer, bolt and carrier (including a nice job making the trigger look match-grade) (see pictures). What is included: Saiga 12 including: JT engineering main spring. Pauly modified: trigger group, bolt, carrier, Krebs manual BHO, G2 hammer ACE 8.5'' skeleton stock 1'' recoil pad for ace skeleton Push-button folding mechanism SAW pistol grip Tromix D-I-Y trigger guard Autoplug CSS puck Enhanced recoil spring for reliability 12-round magazine Factory 5-round magazine This gun is in perfect working order. It cycles low brass with no problems, thanks to Pauly and the gas work done. It's a great shotgun and I will miss it, but I've got bills to pay. REDUCED: Asking $1100. + Shipping Must be sent to your FFL, or face to face transaction with proper ID. Will not ship to any state that does not allow their sale and please check your local laws.
  4. This thread is meant to detail how I installed the Tromix weld on picatinny rail w/ H&K rear sight base, as well as the CSS weld on front H&K sight. This is simply how I chose to do it, if you have another method you used feel free to post it up. I chose to plug weld both the rail, and front sight for the cleanest install I could think of. It keeps the welds hidden, and once ground/refinished they should be invisible. We'll start with the pieces laid out. The rail from Tromix is a very nice piece. First thing you need to do is align the rail on the dust cover, and trace out the location. This step is VERY important, and you need to make sure the rail is straight while the cover is installed on the gun. Double and triple check yourself before performing any welding. I used a combination of digital level, caliper measurements, and visual references to ensure the rail was on straight when installed. Once I had the rail positioned properly I traced out the outline. Once you have the outline traced remove the rail. I then flipped the cover over and center punched where I wanted my plug welds. Here you can see the indentations from the center punch. Place the rail section back on the dust cover to ensure your plug locations make contact with the rail. Especially important at the rear sight base where there is a relief in the rail. Next you need to drill out the locations for the plug welds. Remove the rail section and flip the dust cover over. Drill from the inside out using the center punches as guides. I used a 5/32" drill bit. Size doesn't really matter, but I wanted to make sure I had a good amount of weld contact without making it difficult to fill. Once drilled it will look something like this. All you need for this is a hand drill, center punch, and I used a deburring tool to clean the holes up so the rail sat flat. Once you have your holes drilled wipe everything down with Acetone, You may also want to remove the factory finish around the weld area to make welding easier. I didn't and it went fine, but YMMV. Once both pieces are clean reinstall the rail, and again triple check alignment. I can not stress how important it is to take your time and make sure everything is plumb. It will be a real b**** to remove once welded. I used masking tape to secure the rail while welding. I would imagine there are clamps that would work well also, vice clamps for instance. Here it is positioned and ready to weld. I did a small tack weld on one of the plugs and rechecked the alignment on the gun. Luckily it was still properly positioned, but at this point would be easy to break the tack and reposition if necessary. After the sanity check I continued to finish the plug welds. I started from the rear of the dust conver, then went to the front, then second up from the rear etc. This ensured the heat was evenly distributed to eliminate any warping. I started from the rear as there is the most structure there to reduce warping. Once done it will look something like this. I used a Tig machine at about 50 amps with 316 filler rod. Most of the heat was directed at the much thicker rail section. This worked pretty well, and there was no noticeable warpage. This piece is rock solid after welding. The dust cover will bend way before this piece comes off. Once the welds are finished it's time to grind them flat. A simple die grinder or dremel with a stone or sandpaper roll will work well for this. After grinding. I have not refinished it yet, but next would be to paint/durakote/cerakote etc the inside and at least the rail section on the outside. Then give yourself a pat on the back and grab a beer the rail section is done.
  5. Eric Pate

    S17Soft

    From the album: Distal's Weaponography

    Tromix S17. A work of art in itself.

    © No commercial use without express permission

  6. mholt47

    JTE HAMMER SPRING

    JACK TRAVERS from JTE sent me a pre-bent Hammer spring for my Saiga 7.62x39. I installed it and took the rifle to the range. It made the Tapco G2(Tromix) trigger as smooth as my AR 15s with a Wilson Combat Trigger and smoother than my Rock River Arms 2 stage match trigger. Not a single light strike and the cycle rate seemed faster. I love my Saiga all over again!!! you can reach Jack at JT Engineering jack@jtengineering.org 337 353-3534
  7. motocam25

    Are all the Tromix S17's gone?

    Are all the Tromix S17's gone? I finally saved up enough for one and can't find one anywhere. I'm ready to buy. Any ideas where to look or put WTB ads? Any help is appreciated.
  8. Gunna go ahead and edit all this out. Like I said I got into the wrong.
  9. Having been recently smitten by the Saiga-12 bug I finally succumbed to its allure, so, ... here I am... Hi, Everybody! Right off the bat I knew there were a few things I wanted to change about a stock Saiga to better suit my idiosyncrasies (actually, my wife calls it my 'need to tinker') and, of course, this forum was THE place to research my ideas first. Although I have a bit of experience with firearms, none of it included anything in the AK/Saiga world, and not wanting to be just another noob on the forum (with all due respect for noobs everywhere), I read just about every post, and followed every thread I thought may have been pertinent, prior to buying and building MY Saiga. This post is to share with those that may be interested how I went about MY build. Yes, I realize some of you might have made different choices, and you probably would have had great reasons for doing so for YOUR build. I welcome any constructive criticism or questions from anyone and promise to reply as may be appropriate. Now here's my story. As I learned on the forum, the Saiga-12, as imported into the US, has had a few changes over time. Looking at the date of a post helped me put into perspective its content as far as the vintage and the importer relative to applicability for MY intended build. Also learned that some posters just repeat stuff they heard/read somewhere but lack personal experience, knowledge, common sense, or some combination thereof. This observations helped explain some of the apparent conflicts in facts and opinions, enabling me to make better use of the information. I will stick to providing factual details, evidence-based analysis and opinion, and verifiable references. The first building block is a NIB, current production (March 2012) IZ 109, imported by RWC and purchased at retail. The intended use is exclusively for high-power slugs, maybe some ocassional magnum loads of buckshot for hunting hogs - not tactical, not skeet, not urban warfare, not PD, not 'zombies', not inexpensive plinking fun, etc., just hogs. This meant I would disregard 'low brass reliability kits', flash hiders, CQB and door-breaching accessories, and other such useless (to me) items. The following list shows the functional objectives, the selection criteria, and the chosen solution. Comments or other clarifications are included as I felt warranted. Objective Criteria Solution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Reduce muzzle climb Consistent, reliable, JT Engineering brake installed with and perceived rugged, compatible a barrel lock nut, both steel, from recoil for faster with all full-power loads, Carolina Shooters Supply (CSS) and second shots low or no maintenance LimbSaver recoil pad from WalMart Comment: This brake includes crenellations for door-breaching which I don't need and will machine off in my lathe and then refinish. Multiple Picatinny Same as above Billet Tri-Rail and rear sight rails for lights, dovetail rail from CSS lasers, red dots, forward grip, bipod Comment: The rear sight was staked in the dovetail. Using a small cutoff wheel and a hacksaw I made a vertical cut on top of the sight to within a few thousandths of the bottom and then tapped it out. This allowed installing the dovetail rail. Avoid battering Same as above Tromix Full Power Recoil Spring damage from recoil and recoil buffer from CSS of regular full- power loads use Comment: After installing the recoil spring, testing showed the bolt carrier still hitting the rear trunnion; only then was the recoil buffer installed. I didn't know the pin retaining the guide rod to the return spring guide was slightly tapered - it only came out, and went in, one way (I mic'd it to be sure it wasn't just burred). Buttstock with Same as above but without ACE Hammer from Del-Ton. External adjustable LOP cutting off rear tang or Receiver Block Extension and Pignose and cheekpiece welding. Strongest made Adapter from CSS Comment: The bottom of the External Extension required drilling and tapping for securing to the bottom of the receiver using existing screw hole of the replaced stock. This precluded keeping the trigger there, requiring to be retro-fitted forward to its Kalashnikov-intended location (See next item). Greg Queen from CSS was very helpful in confirming this workaround and in responding very quickly to my emails asking specific product questions. I very much appreciate his prompt, knowledgeable, and candid answers. Without his help this whole project could have turned into a nightmare. Thank you Greg. Move trigger forward Use highest quality JT Engineering Main Spring, Axis components pin retaininjg plate, BHO kit, Tromix FCG, Carolina Trigger Guard, and trigger group hole plugs, all from CSS Comment: The instructions and videos from CSS were invaluable. I didn't use a 3/16 drill to drill out the trigger guard rivets; I center-punched the rivets, made a 1/16 pilot hole and then drilled out the rivet to its O.D. only, keeping the holes at their original size. I did notch the BHO lever for the spring but only after watching the video several times while playing with the parts to better understand why and how. I installed the main spring upside down at first, and it worked, but didn't look right. After I installed it correctly I tested it and found the trigger pull to be rather light; it tested at an average 2 1/2 lbs. That seemed too light for safety on a high- recoil shotgun so I chambered and cocked on a 12 Ga. snap cap. Multiple hard inline impacts on the butt and on the muzzle failed to allow the hammer to strike the firing so pin so now I won't be worried about a light trigger pull inducing accidental discharge. Rear pistol grip Same as above, non-slip, Hogue Monogrip for AK from local no pinch points, feels store good in MY hands Comment: The screw hole in the grip needed to be elongated to match trigger guard's. I used a Dremel tool to do it. It wasn't much, but removing that material made me feel like I had compromised the structural integrity of the grip's fastening so I built a thick rounded-rectangle-shaped washer to fit inside the grip's bottom surface to distribute the screw's tension over the entire surface and not just the thin 75% area beneath the screw head. This would increase the load-bearing capacity of the grip's mounting while allowing for a little more tightening torque on the screw; both important to me on a high-recoil shotgun (It might be a little disconcerting if the grip comes off while a disgruntled hog is charging at me). Other accessories on this Saiga include a Grippod, a green Beamshot, CenterPoint red/green dot scope, Ergo rail slot covers, fitted case, YHM 45 degree rail adapter with an AR grip adapter and generic AR pistol grip. Checking out this Saiga for 922r compliance found 9 foreign parts out of a max of 10. This is including the original 5-shot magazine which counts for 3 parts all by itself. I think I am OK there. The ammo intended to be used includes, in no particular order, the following: Ddupleks Hexolit 32 Sauvestre Balle Fleche Dan Arms Gualandi Nitro Company Gualandi and '200 Yds Slug BPI DGS Thunderbolt Hornady SST Lightfield Hybred and Commander IDS Remington Slugger Federal Fusion and Power-Shok Various domestic (US) buckshot loads in lead, and non-lead alloys and my own 600 gr. hollow-points I machine from copper stock, loaded in custom brass shells from Rocky Mountain Cartridge with Hodgdon Longshot and CCI primers... not for use by the timid or pain-intolerant (higher recoil, much, much louder than a church mouse). I am considering a couple of other possible tweaks as they may be needed. It seems, even with the recoil buffer, recoil impact on the rear trunnion is excessive; an even stiffer recoil spring, modified gas plug, enlarging the gas vent on the gas block, or reducing the barrels's gas ports, may be options. A low-profile scope side mount and a Hi-Lux EER 2-7X32 scope are also future options. A sling, and a rifled barrel are also subjects for future consideration. That's it for now... I can't think of anything else right now. Long-winded post... (Sorry, moderators) I tried to edit for brevity but couldn't decide on what to leave out. Ill try to be more succint in the future.
  10. JG1race1y

    MKA build complete

    Long time lurker, first time poster- Just wanted to thank all on the forum for their posts and conversations which helped me through my MKA-1919 build- I was lucky enough to be at the "right time right place" for some parts of the build, and am quite pleased with the end result. Cheers again to all who make this a great, helpful, and supportive forum! Jon
  11. I have a few parts Im looking to get rid of. I take paypal descreet no fee or 3%. 1. ACE 8.5" stock GREAT condition, looks new- $55 2. Saiga internal stock adapter - $ 30 3. DIY tromix trigger guard - $ 35 4. Pauly's profiled tapco hammer -$ 20 <span rel='lightbox'><img src='http://i45.tinypic.com/s1jkzn.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /></span> Ive done deals here without issues, Ill ship usps with tracking. Prices do not include shipping. Buy all parts about with 10% discount at 125 shipped. Items are cross posted.
  12. I am trying to raise some Christmas cash, so up for sale is: A NEW TROMIX MONSTER BRAKE, 6 PORT, 7 GILL Specs as listed online: 5.8" OAL, 12.6oz Steel Best recoil reduction available Uses factory threads Made in the USA PRICE DROP $130 -->$120.00 Shipped CONUS USPS Money Order or Paypal +4%
  13. As I look at my options for stocks, I can't help but wonder: Who's got the best butt?
  14. ***SPF**** Hey guys, I purchased the gun on these boards a while ago and have put maybe 100 rounds through it. Ive really only kept it as a novelty and had an emergency arise and need the money so I would like to return the favor and offer it up here again. Up for sale: Tromix S06 with COA Tromix folding stock Galil charging handle Galil handguard 19" barrel HK sights shark brake/breacher Extras: AGP Gen 2 10 round mag Factory 5 round mag Enindine Shot Shock buffer recoil Chaos Quad rail Carolina shooters supply pig nose adapter Asking:$1700 buyer pays s&h/ins. to FFL. Open to any reasonable offers Ready to add any foregrip and buttstock you want! ***SPF***
  15. ndmak

    new s12

    hey everyone. got a "like new" s12 on gb by "accident" a few weeks ago. i have really been lurking on the forums since before christmas. i did a simple conversion with some parts from css (+1, thanks greg). i got the tromix diy trigger guard, the modified g2 fcg, and the internal receiver block from him. i got the saw grip and hand guard from mulletman. and i got a tromix skeleton stock on the way. I've loved shooting this gun before the conversion and am stoked to get the stock and be ready to give'r again. here's my parts and price breakdown s12- 545 (+45$ shipping to alaska) for 590$ tapco saw grip + tapco hand guard for 50$ tromix skeleton stock for 60$ tromix diy trigger guard, css internal receiver block, and tapco trigger for 130$ and thats a total of 830$ holy smokes that adds up fast. but i am glad i have done it and its worth every penny. it was fun and i learned a lot while doing it and reading through the forum and watching all the videos. http://forum.saiga-1...age/6341-s12-1/ http://forum.saiga-1...age/6342-s12-2/ (somebody please help with the pics?)
  16. Looking for the full length vented galil-style handguard for a 19" Saiga 12.
  17. With the Saiga-12's you supply, are there grind marks from the old importer. If so, are they filled smooth when you refinish the gun? If I supply my own, can you fill the grind marks? Thanks!
  18. RustNRoll

    S12 FCGS (a definitive thread)

    Im still trying to figure out what the heck I am looking for in a conversion, and theres no real all encompassing FCG topic/comparison. What are the benefits, advantages, disadvantages etc to your favorite? What is it you are looking for in feel, performance, and function when you are choosing your FCG? I tried to start a poll, but something got lost and it didn't come out, so I'll post the FCG's I've been able to find on the interweb: Factory FCG Tromix Modified G2 Single Hook Trigger Kit TAPCO Double Hook G2 FCG TAPCO Single Hook G2 FCG Arsenal single stage trigger kit Arsenal double stage trigger kit R & R Trigger, Hammer Kit Texas AK Double Hook Trigger Kit TAC-47 Modified G2 Single Hook Trigger Kit Red Star Arms Adjustable Trigger Kit
  19. I just received a Stormwerkz folding mechanism in the mail today. I've never used a folding mechanism before, but after reading complaints about the wobbliness that tend to afflict some ACE folders I decided to go with the Stormwerkz folder since it seemed like a better design. It was a smidge cheaper than the Ace too, that also helped the decision. Aside from the fact that the dark purplish finish doesn't really match the rest of the gun, it seems like a really solid piece and locks up tighter than a male bovine's posterior orifice. Anyway, I have mounted the folder to a CSS receiver block and a Tromix stock in the left folding position. As you may or may not be able to see from the attached crappy picture, it doesn't entirely fold all the way to the left before the Tromix stock hits the side of the receiver and the rear trunnion rivet. Mind you, the Stormwerkz mechanism has two lugs and will lock in both the folded and unfolded positions (the ACE only has one lug and only locks in the unfolded position, correct?). I guess my first question is, do I have the damn thing mounted correctly? I think I do, but I've been wrong before... Secondly, is this a normal limitation that is also encountered with ACE folders when used along with a Tromix stock? Or is the ACE + Tromix combination capable of folding completely parallel with the receiver? I hesitate to break out the dremel and trim the stock to fit, as an existing chip at the other end of the stock has already revealed that it is white underneath and small crack is forming from it. I am concerned that modification could adversely affect the strength of the stock, not to mention the thought of refinishing the stock doesn't exactly thrill me. It appears that everything will clear if I make it into a right-folding setup. I am not necessarily opposed to a right-folding setup, the only problem is the base of the stock is not symmetrical and thus the wider left side will protrude from the weapon. Is that the normal design for Tromix stocks, BTW? Or do I have a funny one (the base of the stock also protruded from the left when I had it directly connected to the receiver block as well) I found an over head picture here of an ACE folder along with a Tromix stock. The Ace definitely looks like the hinge is located a bit farther out than the Stormwerkz, however the mating base of the Tromix stock in that picture also appears to be a touch more symmetrical and doesn't seem to protrudes from the left-hand side quite much as mine does. Not sure if my folder or the stock is at fault, or both. Or perhaps I'm just splitting hairs. Dunno. Anyone else have one of these folders? Thoughts? I'm kinda scratching my head at the moment...
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