Proper Scope Mounting

[sperrier 0]

Needed: Greater minds than mine.

 

Here's my .308 with a Bushnell Trophy in Weaver rings, on a low mount. I installed a Limbsaver recoil pad and now the length of pull is about 1-1/2" too long. I can shorten the stock about 2" to adjust the length of pull and get about 2" eye relief.

 

 

I'm worried that with the rear of the scope cantilevered, recoil could damage it. The Weaver rail is screwed to the optic mount. Do I need to relocate the Weaver rail further back so I can bridge the scope turret with the rings? Do I need a different mount instead?

 

 

Advice please. Before I cut, What's the smart thing to do?

 

Thanks very much.

[NoAim 0]

Honestly, your scope is WAY too far back.

 

You shout just have the font of your cheek right at the front of the raised comb.

 

From there, you need to adjust the scope for proper eye reflief, typically 3-4".

[stolivar 0]

I'm sorry dude, where did you learn how to mount a scope?

 

Put the rings on each side of the scope and move it forward. Now move your head forward on the stock also.

 

 

 

that is the funniest setup I have ever seen . I needed a good laugh.

 

 

steve

[hoop762 0]

i would imagine the reason he has the scope mounted back so far is the added length from the recoil pad. Had to move the scope back to get proper eye relief while maintaning a good cheek weld.

 

 

sperrier***

 

i believe that a while ago, Cobra76two did a post on chopping out a section of a factory stock, then "welding" them back together, shortening the overall stock. If im wrong, im sure someone will chime in a correct me

[ironhead7544 35]

I have a long eye relief scope on my 308. The Scopes made for shotguns generally have a 4 to 5 inch relief which will work with the standard stock length. Adding a recoil buffer will also cut the 308 recoil down. The scope ring should not touch the turret as this can damage the scope.

[sperrier 0]

Gents, thanks for your thoughtful replies. hoop's right; all was well until I added the recoil pad. I just wanted some counsel before cutting the stock if there was a better solution. ironhead, I wish I had thought of the shotgun scope before I spent my scope money.

 

stolivar, here's a few Russian scope pix to brighten your day:

 

 

 

 

 

Everything I think I know was learned through misfortune; either mine or somebody else's.

[monomonk 0]

I am having trouble with the scope on my Saiga .308. I am using the standard side mount made in Belarus. The mount is so far off that I cannot zero the scope--the adjustments do not go far enough. I tried shimming the back of the rail with a washer but still no luck. The scope mount is off side to side as well as up and down. Any comments?

 

Thanks,

 

Monomonk

[vjor 2]

[vjor 2]

Edited October 1, 2006 by vjor

[vjor 2]

sperrier here is the pic as requested

this and one more are left over of 5 I got for couple of old projects.

 

Edited October 2, 2006 by vjor

[24kshooter 0]

Take the limbsaver pad off and mount the scope correctly. I am not sure what you are doing with a pad unless you needed to increase the LOP then the scope is still mounted incorrectly. The recoil of the Saiga 308 is relatively mild. If you have a shoulder injury then a 30 caliber may not the caliber for you - get a Saiga X39 or .223 or a M1 carbine. Barring a shoulder injury practice with a Mosin Nagant 91/30 will prepare you for shooting the Saiga without any discomfort.

[jtoddellis 2]

With a unconverted rifle you will have much better results using an EAA Scope mount. They are desighned for that rifle. The type mount you have is desighned for use with a pistol gripped AK. I used a belarus mount on my .308 and never could get it zero'd. I changed to a factory EAA Saiga mount and it was no problem at all. RAA may offer them as well. I don't know.

[sperrier 0]

jtoddellis,

 

Outstanding! I had no idea when I bought the mount I have. Yours is probabably the neatest solution of all. Thanks very much.

 

And 1K thanks to all here who took the time to try to help me. You guys are the greatest.

[sperrier 0]

Gentlemen,

 

I called EAA and found that the Saiga scope mounts were no longer offered on-line. Here's the reason from the EAA website:

 

"Due to a business decision on EAA's part, we will no longer carry parts and accessories for Izhmash "Saiga". Please call 321-639-4842 Ext. 10 for existing inventory."

 

A few were still in inventory and I bought two. Hurry now if you want one from EAA @ appx $50

[doug01 3]

I have a Belarus mount from Eastwave on my .308 and .223. I used Millet angle lock rings. Lined up great on the .223 when set to the right. Had to adust a little on the .308. Both bore sighted and will be on paper for sure. Plenty of room for adjustment. I was about Maxed out with Simmons rings and din't want to crank any more. ~$20 a pair for the Millets.

 

Doug

[aka108 0]

You are going to poke your eye out from what I see in the picture. Move the scope forward so the the elevation and windage adjustment knobs are in between the scope mounts. No matter how low you can mount the scope you are going to need a cheek pad to get a good cheek weld to the stock. Check our Blackhawk Industries. They have some good ones. You probably won't need the extra stock length once this is done. Does the scope mount you have slide on from the front or rear of the rifle. If it is one of the Belarus mounts that slide on from the front, it will slide forward under recoil no matter how tight you get it.

Edited October 6, 2006 by aka108

[Bvamp 604]

cut the stock and put the pad over it. use a decent tape on the end of the stock if the buttpad doesnt want to stay put. the factory saiga buttstocks can be had for dirt cheap. Im sure someone like tony rumore has 80 million of them lying around, to boot, so it wont be hard to locate one, if you want to keep the gun in stock condition.

[unclebill 0]

my belarus mount was so far off i put a .057 shim under the rear weaver rail plate, locktite it and put it back together. that got it in the ballpark, after that it was easy to get it dialed in. i used layers of electrical tape stacked together and drilled two holes in it so it would be solid with the screw and the tiny pin going through it.

Edited December 25, 2006 by unclebill