What's the deal with the spacer on the buffer spring?

[shaneman153a 39]

Is the hinged spacer on the buffer spring necessary, or was it just added to take away stress from the trunion? Has anyone pitched it for a soft recoil buffer?

[lsgs 0]

do not toss it,,it is needed for proper function,,just slide the nylon buffer downt he spring guide to it. it works just fine that way.

[G O B 3,516]

Yes, leave the spacer there and use the buffer in front.

[shaneman153a 39]

Thanks guys, and you've done this and it won't short stroke??

[snake54 0]

It will work fine with the BlackJack buffer. I never shoot my .308 without one.

[AK-308 2]

do not toss it,,it is needed for proper function,,just slide the nylon buffer downt he spring guide to it. it works just fine that way.

 

I dunno. With it on, I didn't like the way the plastic buffer tilted so much. I drilled it out and put the plastic buffer in its place.

 

Also, with them stacked, you're reducing the travel, which increases impulse, which defeats the purpose of the buffer.

 

The purpose of the metal spacer is to keep the bolt carrier from flying all the way back and popping off the cover IIRC. Won't happen with the plastic buffer in its place.

Edited December 12, 2006 by AK-308

[DaGroaner 2]

When I just added a buffer I had feeding problems. I pitched it and replaced it with a BJB. My rifle functions perfectly mow.

[shaneman153a 39]

When I just added a buffer I had feeding problems. I pitched it and replaced it with a BJB. My rifle functions perfectly mow.

 

Yeah, that's what I thought might happen, I'll try a buffer without removing it, and if it causes problems then I'll pitch it. AK-308, you're absolutely right about the increased impulse, I'm not sure how much harder it is hitting if it's a 1/4 inch shorter travel though. A good way to gauge it would be by comparing felt recoil with and without both. Not the most exact method, but if it kicks too hard, or fails to feed, I'm gonna toss it.

 

Thanks for the input guys

 

Shane

 

DaGroaner I didn't know you were from WA, whereabouts? (If you don't mind saying)

Edited December 12, 2006 by shaneman153a

[DaGroaner 2]

When I just added a buffer I had feeding problems. I pitched it and replaced it with a BJB. My rifle functions perfectly mow.

 

Yeah, that's what I thought might happen, I'll try a buffer without removing it, and if it causes problems then I'll pitch it. AK-308, you're absolutely right about the increased impulse, I'm not sure how much harder it is hitting if it's a 1/4 inch shorter travel though. A good way to gauge it would be by comparing felt recoil with and without both. Not the most exact method, but if it kicks too hard, or fails to feed, I'm gonna toss it.

 

Thanks for the input guys

 

Shane

 

DaGroaner I didn't know you were from WA, whereabouts? (If you don't mind saying)

 

Battle Ground

[G O B 3,516]

I use the black BJB and the factory metal piece just the way it came, last sunday I shot 88 rounds in 40 min or so, no misfires of any kind, and my shoulder feels fine.

[shaneman153a 39]

Battle Ground

 

Sweet, I'm from the Tacoma/Puyallup area myself, though currently in Texas

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(G O B @ Dec 12 2006, 07:40 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->

I use the black BJB and the factory metal piece just the way it came, last sunday I shot 88 rounds in 40 min or so, no misfires of any kind, and my shoulder feels fine.

 

I guess I'll just have to see how mine does. If I can ever get through this FUCKING SPOT WELD!!!

 

Thanks guys

Edited December 13, 2006 by shaneman153a

[G O B 3,516]

I used a dremmel carbide burr in a benchtop drill press. Plenty of light oil and a firm pressure at the lowest speed. Then a large,sharp chisel with a BFH. Use a sharp chisel so it will follow the reciever with one side flat against it and act as a wedge to pop the two pieces apart.

[Eric86GT 0]

I had problems with the factory metal spacer and a green BJB. The bolt would shortstroke and it would stovepipe casings. I removed the BJB and the problem did not repeat itself. When I got home I removed the metal spacer and reinstalled the BJB in it's place. The next time out, no problems except for one shot. I was shooting from a rest and let the gun recoil back more on that shot than I should have (equivalent to limpwristing a pistol) and it stovepiped.

[shaneman153a 39]

-->

QUOTE(G O B @ Dec 13 2006, 08:17 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I used a dremmel carbide burr in a benchtop drill press. Plenty of light oil and a firm pressure at the lowest speed. Then a large,sharp chisel with a BFH. Use a sharp chisel so it will follow the reciever with one side flat against it and act as a wedge to pop the two pieces apart.

 

Gawd, I spent about 45 minutes doing exactly that, with a cobalt bit. Once I finished that one, I realized the 308 has two more spot welds that an S-12. Man, I was pissed, I ground down a piece of steel bar stock to a 60 degree angle, gave it one smack with a 5 pound hammer, and then jumped up and down doing the victory dance.

 

Shane - 1 Saiga 308 - 0

 

[5thShock 0]

The metal thingamajig IS a buffer. A mechanical one, inspired, I have read, by the one Ruger devised for the Ranch Rifle. Should be all you need, let the spring work for its full travel.