TheGunHustler 3 Posted July 28, 2007 Report Share Posted July 28, 2007 hello I had a local gunsmith dura coat my ak grey. can you tell buy looking at it why this happened? I shot 60 rounds bump fireing and this is what i have now. he said he would fix it but i am wondering if i should let him or ask for a refund. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dinzag 31 Posted July 28, 2007 Report Share Posted July 28, 2007 Wow, I'd say he didn't blast it or even degrease it? Did the finish come off or just bleed through? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeD 541 Posted July 28, 2007 Report Share Posted July 28, 2007 Wow, I'd say he didn't blast it or even degrease it? +1000 I bet he didn't bake it either! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheGunHustler 3 Posted July 29, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2007 (edited) well the finish bubbled up turned black and flaked off. there is metal where there is no finish so i think he blasted it cause it was painted green. i think he didnt de grease it cause i had oil draining out of the front sight..... Edited July 29, 2007 by TheGunHustler Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kresk 10,063 Posted July 29, 2007 Report Share Posted July 29, 2007 (edited) well the finish bubbled up turned black and flaked off. there is metal where there is no finish so i think he blasted it cause it was painted green. i think he didnt de grease it cause i had oil draining out of the front sight..... Sometimes putting the gun in heated degreasing bath isn't enough, and you actually have to take a torch or other heat source to the parts directly to fully degrease them, then do the bead blasting. Have seen this before. Front sights are notorious for it. Edited July 29, 2007 by tritium Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vjor 2 Posted July 29, 2007 Report Share Posted July 29, 2007 (edited) LOL, looks like he don't degrease it and don't phosphate it right or no phos at all for the pics above, or phos with grease on the gun and the phos dont stock to it and the duracoat dont stock to the metal. I see that happen and people blame the duracoat and stuff for the shit finish on there stuff, but you have to degrease, blast, degrease, phosphate and latter duracoat or any other paint finish. If you dont have a bonding on the metal for the paint the stuff will just peal off no mather what paint U use. That gun reminds me of some people in this forum that duracoat there gun over original finish and blame the duracoat for no sticking on the gun. Edited July 29, 2007 by vjor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheGunHustler 3 Posted July 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2007 one more thing. I had pinned the muzzle brake and had him weld it for extra strength. well the weld he put on there fell off today while i was cleaning it.... wtf??? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrance@iacwds.com 716 Posted July 30, 2007 Report Share Posted July 30, 2007 (edited) I hate to see you having so much trouble with your shotgun. If it were me, I'b box it up and send it to Tony. I feel certain he would sort it out and do you right on the price. The main thing required of you would be patience to stand in line. I had him weld on my Shark Brake and refinish among other things and have had no issues at all. I am sure others could do it as well but I would be done with your current gunsmith. At least it can be repaired. 1911 Edited July 30, 2007 by 1911 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TonyRumore 1,332 Posted July 30, 2007 Report Share Posted July 30, 2007 I use Norrell Moly Resin, not Duracoat. The Moly Resin can handle SERIOUS heat. You would have to run it full auto for 10 or so magazines back to back to get it to burn off. It is not effected by oil bleed either. I am not sure how that works, but it does. Even if oil bleeds out from under the sight base, the moly resin still adheres just fine. Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheGunHustler 3 Posted August 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2007 well i got my gun back yesterday and it looks sweet i had him reduracoat it in hk black and it looks like it was done right this time. i think he didnt bake it last time. I have had him do a bunch of finishes but it was my first time with the duracoat. I also found out that he Dosnt dot it he has another guy clean and coat it. so the other guy fucked up. ill post pics in the 7.62 forum Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mechsterbator 0 Posted November 28, 2007 Report Share Posted November 28, 2007 well i got my gun back yesterday and it looks sweet i had him reduracoat it in hk black and it looks like it was done right this time. i think he didnt bake it last time. I have had him do a bunch of finishes but it was my first time with the duracoat. I also found out that he Dosnt dot it he has another guy clean and coat it. so the other guy fucked up.ill post pics in the 7.62 forum if you bump fired 60 rounds through it, on a dura-coat finish, what did you expect? dura-coat doesn't even warranty against that sort of abuse, as they recommend dura-heat finish for "blazing your semi-auto, or fully auto" firearms i degreased my SLR-95 and coated with dura-coat. i'm not a fan of blazing, so my barrel temps don't get out of control... so it suits me fine. not a scratch on the finish, great stuff. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheGunHustler 3 Posted December 12, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2007 well i got my gun back yesterday and it looks sweet i had him reduracoat it in hk black and it looks like it was done right this time. i think he didnt bake it last time. I have had him do a bunch of finishes but it was my first time with the duracoat. I also found out that he Dosnt dot it he has another guy clean and coat it. so the other guy fucked up.ill post pics in the 7.62 forum if you bump fired 60 rounds through it, on a dura-coat finish, what did you expect? dura-coat doesn't even warranty against that sort of abuse, as they recommend dura-heat finish for "blazing your semi-auto, or fully auto" firearms i degreased my SLR-95 and coated with dura-coat. i'm not a fan of blazing, so my barrel temps don't get out of control... so it suits me fine. not a scratch on the finish, great stuff. i EXPECT it to last more than 60 rounds. that aint shit compaired to what i normally shoot. i spray painted my yugo with engine paint and emptyed two 75 round drums back to back with no problems at all the hk balck dura coat has now lasted thrugh a lot of serious fire power though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SaigaNoobie 66 Posted December 13, 2007 Report Share Posted December 13, 2007 I painted my Conversion with Black car touch-up paint. It's just Matte enough to almost match perfectly. I figure if it holds up to scorching engine and Florida sun then it'll probably be ok for a receiver. Plus, car paint comes in all sorts of colors! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheGunHustler 3 Posted March 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2008 I wanted to up date this thread. The ak has now had about 2000 rounds through it and this finish can handle some seorious HEAT!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mechsterbator 0 Posted March 10, 2008 Report Share Posted March 10, 2008 I wanted to up date this thread. The ak has now had about 2000 rounds through it and this finish can handle some seorious HEAT!!! most likely duraheat then.... seriously though, 60 rounds or not, if you bump fire it... that's not what it was meant for, at least the regular duracoat i've seen videos of people catching their handguards on fire... what coating is supposed to withstand that? hehe i guess a near disposable gun is inherently going to be treated in a disposable manner Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hkmp53lover@msn.com 0 Posted March 10, 2008 Report Share Posted March 10, 2008 I haven't seen anyone question the cure time. Duracoat reached it's full bonding strength after 3 weeks. Use before then is ALLWAYS at the owner's risk! I would agree that it was probably not properly degreased before painting. The degreaser that the Duracot people recommend is DuraStrip (which costs about $50.00 per gallon, delivered - so many people scrimp on this.) and it needs to be tested for adhesion after the initial application. My son does these finishes for a number of SWAT members and everone raves about the results. My guess is that the guy who did it was a real amature. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheGunHustler 3 Posted March 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2008 no he is a profeshional He just got a bad batch of coating and it is NOT dura heat He uses dura coat on machine guns with no problem. i have seen is other work and it is AWESOME! he compleatly strips the gun of all parts. cleans and degreases all the parts. it was just a bad batch. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gunfixr 76 Posted April 13, 2008 Report Share Posted April 13, 2008 I do DuraCoat, and you don't have to bake it, unless you are using the type that requires baking. You do, however, have to clean real well, and wait for curing before relubing or using the weapon. As far as heat goes, I have my AR painted with a 3 color tigerstripe pattern (black, gray, and white). To test heat resistance, as ARs get quite hot, I loaded 5 30rd mags to capacity and fired them out at 1 round per second with immediate mag changes and resuming firing. The entire gun was smoking heavily. The DuraCoat on the barrel out in front of the FSB turned a dark brown, obviously burnt, but is not peeling at all, even now, six months later. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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