Prototype#2

[johnnymceldoo 0]

Ok, third and final revision is complete. I believe this is the best design so far. Slots were shortened and made thinner just a hair to add integrity. Grooves were added and radiuses on face were machined on same axis as slots.

 

I hope everyone likes this final revision. If you want one and havnt e-mailed me please do so. IF youve already emailed me and dont want this revised design let me know.

 

 

 

Edited November 18, 2004 by johnnymceldoo

[dragonetdreaming 0]

Perfect

[1st Ranger 0]

That FH is awesome. Bravo. You are the man! Keep us posted on the threaded version please.

 

So, what other goodies are next!

 

1st

Edited November 18, 2004 by 1st Ranger

[johnnymceldoo 0]

1st

That FH is awesome.  Bravo.  You are the man!    Keep us posted on the threaded version please.

 

So, what other goodies are next!

 

1st

Thank you!

 

What do you want me to make? I love tinkering with things and I can never leave my guns stock. Look at what I did to this poor M17

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 18, 2004 by johnnymceldoo

[Cesiumsponge 0]

That M17S looks better than the stock one by far; I like it! The stock ones were ugly as sin (in my opinion) I've been looking forward to the AR/FAL bullpup Ace is supposed to be putting out but no word on them yet. I wonder how the FAL will look .308 bullpup

 

Edited November 18, 2004 by Cesiumsponge

[TREADMARKS 0]

I've been looking forward to the AR/FAL bullpup Ace is supposed to be putting out but no word on them yet. I wonder how the FAL will look .308 bullpup

OMG!!!

 

SCHWIIIIIIING

 

I had no idea that Ace was working on bullpups.

 

Time to give them a call!

[hardcorps1775 1]

johnnymac, what about a longer flash hider, like an m-14?

 

i was just thinking about this last night, will this be able to adequately suppress the flash of a 12ga shotgun? have you tested yours at night? how'd it work? do one of the ports face directly upwards when firing?

 

another project? how about the much-drooled over concept of the ak-style front sight/flash hider/bayonet lug combo???

 

i wanna say again, your craftsmanship is impeccable! the added grooves and the symmetry of the barbs are downright artistic!

[johnnymceldoo 0]

johnnymac, what about a longer flash hider, like an m-14?

 

i was just thinking about this last night, will this be able to adequately suppress the flash of a 12ga shotgun? have you tested yours at night? how'd it work? do one of the ports face directly upwards when firing?

 

another project? how about the much-drooled over concept of the ak-style front sight/flash hider/bayonet lug combo???

 

i wanna say again, your craftsmanship is impeccable! the added grooves and the symmetry of the barbs are downright artistic!

I have not tested at night yet to see if it actually supresses flash. Hopefully it does. There is no port in the 12 o'clock position.

 

After I fill the requests for the FH I'll look into other projects. Keep the ideas coming though.

 

Thanks again for the kind words. I hope everyone who orders will be satisfied with my work as it is something I have alot of pride in.

 

I also want to remind everyone who is ordering a ready to mount set screw version that I do not know how close saiga barrels are machined to one another. Given the close tolerence of the FH bore this may require you to do some fitting or send it back to me to have it opened up. I just want everyone to be aware of this. Hopefully this will not be a big issue.

[mickporno 0]

me like.....me like alot!!!

[The_Man 0]

I'll take 2 of the 3rd rev. ones.

[G O B 3,516]

Beautiful work!

 

G O B

[johnnymceldoo 0]

Thanks GOB.

 

I got to work on the threaded version tonight. It went great. I used the chopped of end from when my saiga was 22" as a test peice. I chucked it up in the lathe and used the tailstock as guide.

 

Also this is the first of the pics with duplicolor paint. In the side by side pics you can see how much better it matches the barrel than the moly resin. I only used moly resin on mine because I redid my whole shotgun that way. Its not cured yet for the pic so it will appear a tad more glossy than it will be after it hardens.

 

Ive also included a pic of the die I used. It can be purchased from MSCdirect.com for about $30. Its a 7/8-28 adjustable round split die with 2" OD. Part # is 42103938289.

 

Its hard to see the threads because they are so fine...but perfect for this application where the walls are only .100 thick.

 

[jtf979 0]

I would buy one if I knew that I could thread my barrel for it. How do you use those dies to make a threaded barrel. I have seen these taps on Brownells website but I have no experience with them. I guess you could cut your barrel down and thread it for a permanent flash hider attachment. That hider looks sweet in black.

[Cesiumsponge 0]

That looks damned sweet! How do you think you'll thread the actual barrels though? Do you have a vice and jig rigged up for squareness when you're doing an entire barrel rather than a section on the lathe chuck. I've got a growing curiosity on threaded attachment now as opposed to the set-screw method since it's been done

[johnnymceldoo 0]

I would buy one if I knew that I could thread my barrel for it. How do you use those dies to make a threaded barrel. I have seen these taps on Brownells website but I have no experience with them. I guess you could cut your barrel down and thread it for a permanent flash hider attachment. That hider looks sweet in black.

This is something we need to discuss as far as you guys threading your own barrels.

 

I can make and loan out 1 die and 1 die guide to make it easier for you to do your own threads on your barrel. A die guide will not make it fool proof though. Some of you may be more mechanically inclined than others or have used dies before and have no problems with this. The main thing is keeping the die square to the barrel and keeping it lubricated with a heavy oil or somesort. Engine oil would work but keep applying it as you turn the die. The oil helps the cut cut better and keeps heat down.

 

Since the pitch of this die is very fine it may be a little more easier to screw up so caution must be used. Worst case scenerio is you cross thead your barrel and dont really have any good threading left. So you either weld your FH on or convert to setscrew type.

 

I will post some pics of the process this weekend as a guide. Dont want to scare some of you if youve never done it...just want you to be aware you could mess it up if you dont kow what your doing.

[Control3 3]

Is this threading the same type that's already on the threaded model saigas?

[johnnymceldoo 0]

This is what the die guide will look like. The smaller portion at the bottom will be about 2 inches long and will slip over your barrel with mayye .005-.008 clearence and the top portion will hold the die. You use the bigger portion up top with the kurled finish to hand start the die. When it gets too tight to turn by hand you use your whench on the flats at the bottom to turn it.

 

 

 

 

 

Its designed to guide itself sqaure to the barrel within .005-.01. A vice with a shop rag in between the jaws and the receiver should work fine for holding as this doesnt require but about 15 pounds or so of torque Im guessing. I will try it out first on mine and take pics through the process.

[johnnymceldoo 0]

Is this threading the same type that's already on the threaded model saigas?

I dont know. No one has said what thread size they are.

[hktome 1]

your $60 is in the mail I cant wait!

[TREADMARKS 0]

One hunnered dollars, American money headed yur way.

[TREADMARKS 0]

Ive also included a pic of the die I used. It can be purchased from MSCdirect.com for about $30. Its a 7/8-28 adjustable round split die with 2" OD. Part # is 42103938289.

 

I am not having any luck finding this at MSC Direct. Are you sure the number is correct?

[Cesiumsponge 0]

Now...to find a reasonably easy way to rig up a garage-built jig that would do the job of threading it on reasonably square!

[TREADMARKS 0]

OK then, MSC Direct found the die. The number is 03938289. The had to knock off the first 3 digits.

 

FEDEX will reach you on Monday with the funds for two (2) flash hiders.

 

If you send me the pilot tool and die, I will send it to whoever you say is next on the list.

 

GO JOHNNY GO!

[johnnymceldoo 0]

Guys I messed up. I didnt take into account the threaded version will need to be able to be tightened in the right orientation(closed end down) so Im going to include a small nut that will have two flats as well as the FH having two small flats. This is not an issue if you plan on welding yours on.

 

Sorry about that change guys. Will post some pics later tonight.

[johnnymceldoo 0]

Ok, the die guide is made and functions fine. Sorry in advance for the crappy pics.

 

First step is take the die out of the guide by unsrewing set screws. Then slip guide over barrel and spin it making sure it doesnt bind anywhere. If it does bind it will hamper the threading and make it hard to turn. I recommend you stop and e-mail me. IVe put about .005 clearence between the guide and my barrel dimentions. Without anyone measuring their barrels with mics we wont know until this thing gets passed around. So keep your fingers crossed

 

Here you can see how the setscrew holds in the die. There are two divets in the die one on each side and there is a corresponding set screw on each side of the guide that screws down into the divets holding the die in place. You can also see where the split in the die is and is able to be adjusted with a flathead screwdriver. No adjustment was needed so I recommend not moving it unless you need deeper threads.

 

 

Here is what it looks like in place and tightened down.

 

 

Here is the saiga mounted in a vice(big industrial version). I used rags to protect the finish and used very moderate pressure. No need to use two hands to tighten this down. It was loose enough in fact that it could move up and down but just not side to side.

 

 

Veiw of the guide started just a couple turns.

 

 

To get thread depth start guide a couple turns till it starts to grap. Then grab a ruler and measure out 7/8" if your going to use a FH nut and not weld your in place. The thread length is .625 in the FH and the nut is .250 thick hence .875 or 7/8". Make a pencil line mark on your barrel.

 

 

Now start turning it but make sure you pour some oil on the end of the barrel to keep it lubricated while cutting. IF you dont have a wrench this big Iam going to add another way to turn the guide this weekend. I think the nut is around 1 1/2. Most people dont have wrenches this big although you can probablly rent one at auto zone.

 

 

This is what 7/8's of threads will look like when your done. Dont rush turning the guide. Keep it lubricated as it will ease the process. Occasionally unscrew the die a couple turns to break the chip inside. This will make the whole process easier.

 

 

Now your all done! Here you can see that the FH is turned all the way and there is a 1/4" of threads still left behind the FH. This space will be taken up by FH nut.

Edited November 20, 2004 by johnnymceldoo

[hk4me 0]

Hows about threading 1/2 inch of the barrel, then using the last 1/8 inch to time it ? Does the flash hider end up off center ?

[johnnymceldoo 0]

Hows about threading 1/2 inch of the barrel, then using the last 1/8 inch to time it ? Does the flash hider end up off center ?

I thought of that idea. Threading a half inch or so and then screwing on the FH to see how it times. Then if not centered use the die again to add a little more thread until its timed just right. Thats the way i would go but I figured most people wouldnt want to mess with it. Im not looking forward to making the nuts as I hadnt figured it in to the cost but satisfaction is a priority.

[Cesiumsponge 0]

Looks like we're well on our way!

 

I have several knucklebusters that big I don't know if it's paranoia or just me, but I'd feel safer if it was more traditional in terms of a die wrench having two handles on either side to turn instead of torquing on it with one lever. I suppose if the wrenches I have are thin enough, one can mount two 180 degrees from one another and have a more comfy two handle "die wrench".

 

That's a damn smart setup though, no complicated aligning jigs. I'm itching to dip into other funds to splurge for one of these right now but I think I'll hold off and let the other fellows make their rounds first and see if I can find manage to scrape up a few bucks since during the wait since I'm looking to work on another firearms buildup (non-Saiga related unfortunately!)

[wjm 0]

Here is place for reasonably priced dies and taps

 

Die and Handle for 2" round die

 

$23.00 RD-7/8-28-D 7/8-28 HS 2" OD Special Die 7/8" 28 2"

 

$9.50 DS-2 2" Die Stock 2" 19" (die handle)

[cpileri 0]

Nice work, brother.

It seems simple enough but I just didnt appreciate the talent it takes to make a really professional looking item until I tried (emphasis on 'tried') to do it myself.

 

$$ on the way to you. BTW: i originally wanted moly resin and set screw. Buuutttt...

If you are loaning out the threading die and die guide, then please loan it out to me and make my order for one threaded, and one setscrew. (both still moly resin, please)

C-