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:unsure: Does anyone know how to ID ammo head stamps? I bought some ammo from an ammo dealer the other day and it was the good stuff but I have know clue how to ID it. 7.62x39 I think it may be chinese steelcore it has all the lookings of a steelcore but just Im just not sure. It has the red on the primer and on the rim. But I have heard stories of the Yugo ammo being sold that is not steelcore.
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:unsure: Does anyone know how to ID ammo head stamps? I bought some ammo from an ammo dealer the other day and it was the good stuff but I have know clue how to ID it. 7.62x39 I think it may be chinese steelcore it has all the lookings of a steelcore but just Im just not sure. It has the red on the primer and on the rim. But I have heard stories of the Yugo ammo being sold that is not steelcore.

I'll have to check my steel core chinese head stamps when I get home ( you'd think I'd remember since I have several cases of it).

 

I can tell you that the Chinese ammo is STEEL CASE (copper washed finish)...

 

And, the Yugo is BRASS. I've seen red sealant on both -the Chinese has it around the bullet/case junction, as well.

 

The Yugo has a rounded primer -the Chinese primer is flat (like most milspec ammo of this type).

 

The chinese steel core is corrosive, by the way. And! The early milspec Yugo stuff (pretty ammo) is the MOST corrosive 7.62x39mm ammo I ever used (no wonder the Yugo SKS's are ATE UP)!!!

 

Lollygagger ^_^

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Thanks for the chart Smiley Guy. It is amazing the stuff you can learn on this forum. I have ben shooting Wolf fmj purchaed at Dunhams for $2.19 per 20 rds.

 

Does anyone know where I can buy Wolf in bulk (1000 or 1240) rds? Does it all have the laquer coating that has the rep for gumming up the works after several hundred rounds?

 

I did look at Ammo Man's?? site but it appears the Wolf ammo is laquered. Some of the Wolf appears like it is coated in a green substance and some in something more clear.

 

Anything you guys have to offer would be great. Thanks.

 

Wolverine

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Im thinking its chineese Saigaman, because of the "81".

 

Fire a couple rounds into a chunk of 12" thick or better cordwood if you can, and see if you can recover the slugs. I would say to just hacksaw a bullet in half, but steel cased ammo can explode while unloading it or futzing around with it in such a way.

 

if you can get a somewhat intact bullet, it should be obvious if there is a steel core in it, and if it isnt, take a torch to it and see whats left after melting away the softer lead. you should have an intact and burnt jacket, and a piece of metal that will not melt with a blowtorch.

 

a side note: I had a buddy make me a solid teflon bullet (20 bucks for the material that he cut it down out of) in 7.62 and I shot that at a tree. it went through the tree like it wasnt there and is somewhere in the hill behind the tree. the tree was 18" thick. I was about ten yards from the tree.

Edited by Bvamp
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a side note: I had a buddy make me a solid teflon bullet (20 bucks for the material that he cut it down out of) in 7.62 and I shot that at a tree. it went through the tree like it wasnt there and is somewhere in the hill behind the tree. the tree was 18" thick. I was about ten yards from the tree.

You should try Delron. We machine alot of that at work, for various fictures etc. It's even "slicker" than nylon or teflon, a bit denser, and much stronger.

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You can hacksaw thru the center of a bullet, just thru the jacket and into the lead...

 

pull it appart, if there is a steel core -it'll be this "tube' of approx. .22 cal. (Chinese -the E.G is truncated & larger).

 

BTW, this core really, really, really shears off from everything else upon impact with damn near any back stop...and, flies off alot farther than you'd care to think about (like a mile -a guy once collected some rolling off his barn roof about a mile from where we were shooting against a gravel backstop) :unsure:.

 

Take care!

 

Lollygagger :eek:

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Thanks for the steer k_dawg and Doerdie.

 

I don't know of any problems with the Wolf poly coat stuff so I am going to go with that. I'll have to go thru the first time order ID process but it will make future orders a snap.

 

Thanks again.

 

Wolverine

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I've seen Silver Bear cheap.  Is it good?

It's O.K...

 

It shoots pretty well -I cooked it off against some other types. It was on par with the steel core chinese fodder, that has a good rep for decent consistent groups.

 

It's purty, too! Kinda looks a little odd because of the projecting "teat" from the end of the buttlet (Makes me horney!).

 

The round functions in "effect" as a hunting capable hollow point -I believe it is legal several places as a hunting load.

 

The bad side is that the "teat" provides something to snag in extended mags, tip the bullet tip down...and, misfeed.

 

NOT SHTF stuff, but -if cheap enouigh, good play fodder.

 

Lollygagger :unsure

 

For grins, here is some penetration goofing around I did with some 7.62x39mm...including the "Effect" fodder:

26095ammo_test_-7_62x39_-2-med.JPG

 

The "PS" marked test is with the steel core stuff, by-the-way.

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one of the best things to retreive a bullet from is sand

 

i've gone into a nearby gravel pit and shot into the loose sand about 10-12 feet away and found the bullet a few inches under the surface perfectly unharmed.

 

i discovered that i had steel core when i penetrated 1/4" steel plate at about 100 yards at the gravel pit.

 

i have cut into steel cased 7.62x54r. i think i used my dremel tool on the slowest rpm speed. cut through the casing up by the bullet. just enough to relieve the pressure on the bullet so it can be pulled easily.

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Does anyone know where I can buy Wolf in bulk (1000 or 1240) rds? Does it all have the laquer coating that has the rep for gumming up the works after several hundred rounds?

Most ammunition websites sell Wolf ammo in 1000 rd cases for around $90.00 USD or thereabouts. Unfortunately, shipping usually costs another $20.00 so you might as well just keep buying ammo from Dunhams or wherever you get it at. I usually just wait till a gunshow then go and snag a couple/few cases of ammo for anywhere from $80.00 to $95.00 per case.

 

Wolf is also making a "new type" of round where there is no more lacquer. It's got some sort of polymer sealant on the entire round... "lubricates the bore while shooting and no lacquer residue in the gun" according to Wolf. Of course it's not a problem, the laquer that is, if you give your rifle a good cleaning like it deserves. Of course, being an AK variant, even if you neglect cleaning your rifle for several shooting sessions (and thousands of rounds later), it won't gunk up your rifle. I know this from personal experience. :huh:

 

Just beware of older and corrosive ammo. Often times, you can get that stuff really cheap but it's corrosive as hell. Then you HAVE to make sure to clean your rifle after a session at the range. In any case, give the rifle a good thorough cleaning and there's no need to worry about the lacquer.

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doerdie is right.

 

you can use a magnet to tell.

 

actually you don't even have to cut into it.

 

the magnet should pick up the bullet from the tip if it is steel.

 

that worked with my 7.62x54r steel core ammo.

 

as far as being able to cut through it, you can. but it will be much harder to cut than the lead.

 

you can compare it to if you were cutting a piece of meat and you hit a bone.

 

you should be able to feel the difference.

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