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Started working at a gunshop part time last week, they do some saiga conversions there. There is currently a S-12 SBS there, pretty cool looking and we have 2 more waiting for conversion.

 

-E

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Cool. I just finished two myself, a .410 and a .223 rifle.

 

We eagerly await deliveries expected in June, as we have several customers who want a Saiga-12. Some of them have already said they will want them converted.

I'm also about to get a 7.62x39 rifle to do the SRT trigger on.

 

 

I just added a rail to mine, on the gas tube in front of the rear sight. I made it out of steel so I could weld it down, and it's low enough to use the sights over it, or an optic can be put on it.

Edited by Gunfixr
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Cool. I just finished two myself, a .410 and a .223 rifle.

 

We eagerly await deliveries expected in June, as we have several customers who want a Saiga-12. Some of them have already said they will want them converted.

I'm also about to get a 7.62x39 rifle to do the SRT trigger on.

 

 

I just added a rail to mine, on the gas tube in front of the rear sight. I made it out of steel so I could weld it down, and it's low enough to use the sights over it, or an optic can be put on it.

steel? sounds like it would be heavy man, post up some pixx, you gonna mig it on?

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steel? sounds like it would be heavy man, post up some pixx, you gonna mig it on?

 

 

I TIG'd it on, three spots along each side. It's not heavy at all. First, it's only 4 inches long, and second, it's very low. It started out as 1"x1/4" flat bar, so it wasn't much there to begin with. I narrowed it down to width, cut the bevels and slots, and put the radius along the bottom. I'll get a pic up, but picture a rail for a 10/22 rifle, and that's about how thick it is.

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Would you guys say it is important to zero the rail if it is permanently attached the way Gunfixr did?

Or is it enough to have it aligned by hand? Like in the barrels general direction.

 

I was considering having a smith do this for me and am not sure how to get it aligned properly. I never heard of bore lasers for 12 gague.

 

Also, would you know what kind of steel the gas tube is made of? In case I would like to have the smith use the same type for welding etc.

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Rolling Thunder, I don't know about laser sighting the rail, but I did take steps to get it square. I set the shotgun up in a vise, and shifted it around until it was level and square. I then set the rail up on the gas tube and squared it with a level. I clamped it in place and resquared it with the level, double checked the receiver, and tacked it down, then welded it. As far as the steel goes, as long as it's not an exotic alloy or stainless or something otherwise special, the exact type isn't that critical. The tubes are realtively soft, and not real tough, probably a basic mild steel or perhaps A36, readily weldable with mild steel filler.

 

 

325Time, the front sight (not shown) is a standard AK front, with the lower part cut off and welded to a custom band. The rear pictured, I made from scratch. It is a ghost ring aperture partially blocked by a U-notch blade. When you look through it, you see a half moon hole with the flat side down, and a U-notch in the middle of that flat side. I have the notch sighted at 100yds. with slugs, and holding up in the half moon hits with shot at 15-25 yds. It is milled from one solid piece of steel.

Edited by Gunfixr
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