IndyArms 10,186 Posted February 4, 2005 Report Share Posted February 4, 2005 (edited) OK... heres the 64 dollar question... not having done THIS on a saiga ( the twin binding posts in the rear empty holes).. I am CONFUZZLED.... according to this... http://www.cross-conn.com/Saiga_Conversion/Step_7.htm you must install the safety BEFORE dropping in the trigger... fair enough... BUT.. will that aspect then preclude the use of a shepherds crook replacement plate, such as the ones available at blackjack?? as they have to be installed on the two pins FIRST, THEN you slide in the safety to lock that in the corresponding location??? I used "E clips" on MY conversion, so as not to use the spring that came out.. as I DID NOT want to use the twin screw posts in the holes of my receiver... I didnt even KNOW about shepherds crook replacement plates back then.. and was just winging it when I did mine... E clips were just the logical item to retain the FCG pins. SO.......Whats the SCOOP on this... I am going to be working on 6 conversions in the next few weeks, and Dodge is going to be doing his very soon.... Can you use the crook plate replacement? or will E clips be the way to go?? or???? Edited February 4, 2005 by IndyArms Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dodgeturbointerceptor 1 Posted February 4, 2005 Report Share Posted February 4, 2005 someone answer please. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RDSWriter 5 Posted February 4, 2005 Report Share Posted February 4, 2005 Okay... here's the skinny on these replacement plates. They work great, but need to be finessed for the 12 gauge. They aren't 'drop in' like they do in typical 7.62x39 and 5.45x39 rifle. Give me 20 minutes... I see if I can put together a user guide on this topic with pictures. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IndyArms 10,186 Posted February 4, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2005 THATS the SKINNY we need!!!! BOO YAH to you bro!!!!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted February 4, 2005 Report Share Posted February 4, 2005 Heres some skinny. You don't need to waste your money on plates, and e-clips suck because they are a pain to take back out. Just cut the orig. spring off after the first turn of the coil and bend that into a snap hook that clips on the reinforcing bar in front of the hammer. Bend the wire over the hammer pin slot and under the trigger pin. The end of the wire should contact the bottom of the rec. and bend upwards. Done, free original style shepard's crook. Don't be a lazy rich American. Gives us a bad name! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wintermute76 0 Posted February 4, 2005 Report Share Posted February 4, 2005 That sounds good too "I'm learning all kinds of new stuff tonight Wish I had more Saiga's to work on now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dodgeturbointerceptor 1 Posted February 4, 2005 Report Share Posted February 4, 2005 oops...i just bought a shepards plate, and AK tac-latch, and green buffer from BlackJack sorry.....lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IndyArms 10,186 Posted February 4, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2005 Yeah.... that works too!!! I never thought of that... GOOD CALL Cobra!!!!! Rock on!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IndyArms 10,186 Posted February 4, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2005 No worries dodge... it will work just fine for you.... and will be RUGGED... I like the plates myself... better than the e clips and the wire retainers... but ya work with what ya got, sometimes.. and make do.. .thats the name of the game! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted February 4, 2005 Report Share Posted February 4, 2005 bingo! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dodgeturbointerceptor 1 Posted February 4, 2005 Report Share Posted February 4, 2005 I just don't want to do anything half-assed. If I spend 10.00 dollars doing it half-assed and have to spend 15.00 dollars later on top of that to "do it right". thats now 25.00, instead of 15.00 the smart way. I'll buy good shit now....and just play. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RDSWriter 5 Posted February 4, 2005 Report Share Posted February 4, 2005 (edited) Cobra 76... I'm not understanding, how do you attach it to your reinforcing block on a S12? I can do this on all other calibers other than 20gauge and 12gauge because they have a reinforcing bar/rod... but the S12 and S20 have a square block. Any info is helpful as I couldn't get the wire to work without paintakingly recoiling it to match a 12C. FYI - I'm not sure, but I think Tantal has original 12C wires for sale also for about $5. (Personally, I like the plates... so here are the instructions for modification.) Attached is a pic of an original plate and a modified one. The modified one is on the bottom. And... If your fire control parts fit correctly, your selector will go in your Saiga last. You'll notice that the modified one has to be ground down on the top 'right' to clear the bolt carrier rails in the receiver (as they are different than other AK variants). Additionally the selector is literally 1/2 millimeter further to the rear of the recevier... so the hole under this thinned area has to be elongated to the 'left'. (You'll note that the farthest left hole in the bottom modified plate is slightly elongated.) Finally, you will have to file about 1/2 millimeter off of inside top of the U for the retaining part of the plate that goes over the trigger pin. (You'll note that this upsidedown U shape is slightly 'deeper' than the unmodified plate.) For reference purposes it took me about 5 seconds to take the modified one out of my gun. Edited February 4, 2005 by RDSWriter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Blackjack 1 Posted February 4, 2005 Report Share Posted February 4, 2005 I think this may vary from Saiga to Saiga, I have SCR levers in all of my ak's and did not have to grind mine down as pictured above on any of them. I did have to add a slight notch on the side of one of them to clear a rivet head on one of my side rail mounts, I relayed this back to RSA and all the newer levers being produced will clear the rivets straight out of the bag. Safety levers don't have to be installed first if half of the disconnector tab is ground off (as I do on my SWIFT safety levers), they can be installed and removed with the FCG still in place. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RDSWriter 5 Posted February 4, 2005 Report Share Posted February 4, 2005 (edited) The Saiga 12 rails/receiver are not like other AKs. They're down about 1/2 centimeter and welded in. This is why an unmodified retaining plate won't work in a S12. Additionally, the rails go much further back than other calibers which precludes an easy clearance. Per the modifiying the disconnector/trigger tab, I find that if you (1) put the hammer springs across the top of the receiver and (2) sqeeze the trigger while inserting the selector... you don't need to modify the selector at all. (This method will work with a US TAPCO disconnector... if your disconnector has a step/tab off the back of it, this method will not work and you will need to modify the disconnector per BlackJack's comments or grind a portion of the selector to clear the tab.) Edited February 4, 2005 by RDSWriter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dodgeturbointerceptor 1 Posted February 4, 2005 Report Share Posted February 4, 2005 so i should file mine down like that picture above? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted February 4, 2005 Report Share Posted February 4, 2005 Cobra 76... I'm not understanding, how do you attach it to your reinforcing block on a S12? I can do this on all other calibers other than 20gauge and 12gauge because they have a reinforcing bar/rod... but the S12 and S20 have a square block. I have not seen the inside of a S12. Sorry. I know this will work on all AK variants with a reinforcing bar like my S.410. I got that info from a conversion CD that is for sale by a fellow member. When I did my 410 I used the original shepards crook that came out of my AK when I replaced it with RSA's plate. They can be bought cheaper than the plates and don't require any mods. Would one of those work on the 12? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DHunter 1 Posted February 4, 2005 Report Share Posted February 4, 2005 so i should file mine down like that picture above? I used the same one in my S-12, fought to get it in past the rail and then the bolt carrier would hang up on it when I tried t hand cycle it. Ripped it back out and and hit it on the grinding wheel for a couple seconds and made it look like the image above. Now it drops in easier and the carrier goes right over the top of it. So yes you've got to trim it down, but it's quick & easy to do. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dodgeturbointerceptor 1 Posted February 4, 2005 Report Share Posted February 4, 2005 Thanks. I will grind it down. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.