SanSacto 1 Posted March 3, 2009 Report Share Posted March 3, 2009 Seriously.....I am sleepy, angry, and frustrated. I converted my S-308 today with no problems. Not I am just at the last step of reassembly and the bolt carrier wont go in. I had trouble doing it even before the conversion. Am I just retarded or what am I doing wrong????????? AAAAGGGGHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chucku 0 Posted March 3, 2009 Report Share Posted March 3, 2009 You have to really push it down and or smack it and it will go in. If you used a stock G2 trigger, ou have to grind down some areas, use the old trigger parts to compare and youll see what you need to remove. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SanSacto 1 Posted March 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2009 (edited) You have to really push it down and or smack it and it will go in. If you used a stock G2 trigger, ou have to grind down some areas, use the old trigger parts to compare and youll see what you need to remove. I used a Dinzag Arms S-308 FCG for the pistol grip. conversion. I thought everything was already fit for the S-308. What gives? I finally got it in but it was really tough........how can I fix this? Disassembling the rifle for cleaning is now a highe project........ Edited March 3, 2009 by SanSacto Quote Link to post Share on other sites
csspecs 1,987 Posted March 3, 2009 Report Share Posted March 3, 2009 (edited) When I did mine I had about the same problem, I used a G2 and cut everything like I should have. It seems that the saiga .308 uses a little shorter hammer and trigger sear (you can't completely copy it by cutting, so dinzags FCG is as good as your going to get unless you mill your own). I think what I did last time I had my carrier out was to push the hammer all the way down while holding the trigger down so that the hammer is held at the lowest point, then put the carrier back in. Also be sure that you have your bolt in correctly and all the way forward so it will fit in the two little slots in the rails. Hopefully some of that made sense Edited March 3, 2009 by csspecs Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paulry 50 Posted March 3, 2009 Report Share Posted March 3, 2009 I don't have a .308 but from what's posted on the conversion site: The .308 has a third bolt head lug, one more than a standard AK bolt. This would explain the short hammer and difficulty of installing the bolt and carrier on stock .308 Saiga's. I've even read that some conversions don't work properly unless the lower third bolt is lightly ground for clearance. Can anyone vouch for this assessment? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
csspecs 1,987 Posted March 3, 2009 Report Share Posted March 3, 2009 Well I'm not one to cut the third lug as that could lead to death and the like.... But in some conversions I would say that it may involve some serious mods the the FCG to make it work right. It's hard to get the carrier in with the factory FCG and it's even harder when you go to the G2. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Greg_W 0 Posted March 3, 2009 Report Share Posted March 3, 2009 I think what I did last time I had my carrier out was to push the hammer all the way down while holding the trigger down so that the hammer is held at the lowest point, then put the carrier back in. This works good for me. I noticed at the gun shop when I took it apart to wow everyone that it went in kinda hard. ALMOST extinguished my flame... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
loki0629 55 Posted March 3, 2009 Report Share Posted March 3, 2009 Make sure it's lined up properly. There's another cutout a little forward that the bolt head needs to sit in before you start to push it down. Hope that helps. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gnugung 1 Posted February 5, 2011 Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 I think what I did last time I had my carrier out was to push the hammer all the way down while holding the trigger down so that the hammer is held at the lowest point, then put the carrier back in. This works good for me. I noticed at the gun shop when I took it apart to wow everyone that it went in kinda hard. ALMOST extinguished my flame... Yes! I just rediscovered that: "push the hammer all the way down while holding the trigger down so that the hammer is held at the lowest point, then put the carrier back in" ... It makes all the difference. BUT THERE IS ONE MORE POINT... The bolt carrier rides on a rails at the top of the receiver. There are 2 pairs of slots cut into these rails. (A) A pair of slots at the stock end to let the bolt carrier pass through during disassembly. ( A pair of slots half way along the rails to let for the bolt lugs pass through during disassembly. The ( pair are less distinct, you might miss them at first glance. If you still don't see them, run your finger along the rail and you will feel them. Using a hand file (I decided not to use my Dremel), I widened the (A) pair of slots to nearly all the way out to the receiver walls. The bolt carrier doesn't pop up through the slots in the rails when the rifle cycles because - the recoil-spring guide rod holds the bolt carrier down. I widened the ( pair of slots to about 1/2 way out to the receiver walls. I took the bolt out of the carrier and used it to keep testing until the bolt lugs just passed through the slots. The bolt lugs don't pop up through the slots in the rails when the rifle cycles because - the recoil-spring guide rod helps hold the bolt lugs down, - the remaining rail helps holds the bolt lugs down, - if the bolt lugs rise up a bit they have factory-made groves in them to guide them back under the rail. When I cycle the action: The bolt carrier can't pop up through the pair of slots ( for the bolt lugs because it is too long. The bolt lugs can't pop up through the pair of slots (A) for the bolt carrier because they never get near them. The result: My Saiga .308 just hand cycles and fires real smooth like normal. For disassembly, the bolt carrier just pops right out, and for reassembly it pops right back in - PROVIDED I "push the hammer all the way down while holding the trigger down so that the hammer is held at the lowest point, then put the carrier back in"! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gnugung 1 Posted February 5, 2011 Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 REPOST: Some of my characters turned into smileys! Yes! I just rediscovered that: "push the hammer all the way down while holding the trigger down so that the hammer is held at the lowest point, then put the carrier back in" ... It makes all the difference. BUT THERE IS ONE MORE POINT... The bolt carrier rides on a rails at the top of the receiver. There are 2 pairs of slots cut into these rails. ( A ) A pair of slots at the stock end to let the bolt carrier pass through during disassembly. ( B ) A pair of slots half way along the rails to let for the bolt lugs pass through during disassembly. The ( B ) pair are less distinct, you might miss them at first glance. If you still don't see them, run your finger along the rail and you will feel them. Using a hand file (I decided not to use my Dremel), I widened the ( A ) pair of slots to nearly all the way out to the receiver walls. The bolt carrier doesn't pop up through the slots in the rails when the rifle cycles because - the recoil-spring guide rod holds the bolt carrier down. I widened the ( B ) pair of slots to about 1/2 way out to the receiver walls. I took the bolt out of the carrier and used it to keep testing until the bolt lugs just passed through the slots. The bolt lugs don't pop up through the slots in the rails when the rifle cycles because - the recoil-spring guide rod helps hold the bolt lugs down, - the remaining rail helps holds the bolt lugs down, - if the bolt lugs rise up a bit they have factory-made groves in them to guide them back under the rail. When I cycle the action: The bolt carrier can't pop up through the pair of slots ( B ) for the bolt lugs because it is too long. The bolt lugs can't pop up through the pair of slots ( A ) for the bolt carrier because they never get near them. The result: My Saiga .308 just hand cycles and fires real smooth like normal. For disassembly, the bolt carrier just pops right out, and for reassembly it pops right back in - PROVIDED I "push the hammer all the way down while holding the trigger down so that the hammer is held at the lowest point, then put the carrier back in"! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
devrussell 1 Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Yeah, I don't shoot mine very often and it is a bish to put it back in every time after cleaning. After much swearing I eventually get it right. It has to be lined up JUST right though... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dubya308 1 Posted March 4, 2012 Report Share Posted March 4, 2012 I realize this is an old thread but I have to comment. After my conversion I experienced this same thing. Had to grind the side of the hammer and then really slam things back together. I dread the thought of breaking it down again anytime soon. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted March 4, 2012 Report Share Posted March 4, 2012 +1 on tying the trigger back to hold the hammer lower. I find that mine goes together easy if I push down and tuck the carrier/ bolt under the left rail and rock the right down and then forward. The bolt must be rotated clockwise to it's forward position before installing or it will never fit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shades_of_grey 1,092 Posted June 19, 2012 Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 (edited) Didn't any of you guys RTFM?! From page 16: "3.4 CARBINE RE-ASSEMBLY Re-assembly of the carbine is the reverse of disassembly. WARNING: WHEN INSERTING THE BOLT SUPPORT WITH THE BOLT INTO THE RECEIVER IT IS NECESSARY TO MATCH THE BOLT PROTRUSIONS WITH THE RECEIVER SLOTS. SINK THE HAMMER FLUSH, PRESS THE BOLT LEFT-HAND PROTRUSION WITH A FINGER AND MOVE THE BOLT SUPPORT FORWARDS." The translation is terrible, like the rest of the manual, but that does work and it's relatively easy. I think modding the rails or the bolt in any way is unwise and potentially unsafe. At the very least, it will decrease your rifle's reliability, (and accuracy as well if you mod the bolt), and if you follow the instructions above, it's obviously entirely unnecessary. Edited June 19, 2012 by post-apocalyptic Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheDarkHorse 216 Posted June 19, 2012 Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 Can the .308 conversion be done by only replacing the trigger itself, leaving the factory hammer intact? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RED333 1,025 Posted June 19, 2012 Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 Can the .308 conversion be done by only replacing the trigger itself, leaving the factory hammer intact? Yes, keep your old FCG, get a S12 triger, cut the triger and weld it to the S308 FCG.Now the 922R thing will come up, so you have to do a few other things, I use mags. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shades_of_grey 1,092 Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 Can the .308 conversion be done by only replacing the trigger itself, leaving the factory hammer intact? Why? If you just follow the basic instructions from the damn manual that I posted above, you can use a Tapco G2 and have no difficulty reinstalling the bolt carrier. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheDarkHorse 216 Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 Can the .308 conversion be done by only replacing the trigger itself, leaving the factory hammer intact? Why? If you just follow the basic instructions from the damn manual that I posted above, you can use a Tapco G2 and have no difficulty reinstalling the bolt carrier. Because, 1) I do my own work and the hammer requires the most re-profiling just to fit (ie; clearing the cross-brace and the BHO) only to yeild no noticable improvement over the factory hammer already in place. 2) Re-installing the bolt carrier isn't an issue. Don't you agree? 3) I have the same damn manual. Manuals are for Newbs. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
VR762Shooter 838 Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 (edited) 1) I do my own work and the hammer requires the most re-profiling just to fit (ie; clearing the cross-brace and the BHO) only to yeild no noticable improvement over the factory hammer already in place. The amount of work for the hammer isnt really that bad. If you have a dremel or do any of the initial grinding for conversion the hammer is cake work Edited June 20, 2012 by VR6Shooter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheDarkHorse 216 Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 The amount of work for the hammer isnt really that bad. If you have a dremel or do any of the initial grinding for conversion the hammer is cake work Agreed. The point being: There is no benefit to removing the factory hammer only to grind the new hammer to match....that's like buying a new car and replacing the windsheild the same day. The improvement comes in the trigger, not the hammer. I suppose I should have made my initial post a statement rather than a question. If I don't know by now.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shades_of_grey 1,092 Posted June 21, 2012 Report Share Posted June 21, 2012 Can the .308 conversion be done by only replacing the trigger itself, leaving the factory hammer intact? Why? If you just follow the basic instructions from the damn manual that I posted above, you can use a Tapco G2 and have no difficulty reinstalling the bolt carrier. Because, 1) I do my own work and the hammer requires the most re-profiling just to fit (ie; clearing the cross-brace and the BHO) only to yeild no noticable improvement over the factory hammer already in place. 2) Re-installing the bolt carrier isn't an issue. Don't you agree? 3) I have the same damn manual. Manuals are for Newbs. 1. True, but replacing the hammer with a US-made one gives you one more easy compliance part. 2. Yes, I agree it's not an issue, but it apparently was for several people on this thread. That's why I posted the instructions above. That method is the most efficient way to reinstall the carrier; the way it was designed to be reinstalled. 3. I'll admit that I had a little difficulty putting the rifle back together when I first got her, (already converted). That's when I decided to rtfm, and it was actually enlightening, in this case. ymmv. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rhodes1968 1,638 Posted June 21, 2012 Report Share Posted June 21, 2012 "Manuals are for Newbs." Ha good one, here is one of my favorites; Egos and/or ignorance do not mix with firearms. RTFM Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheDarkHorse 216 Posted June 21, 2012 Report Share Posted June 21, 2012 (edited) Edited June 22, 2012 by TheDarkHorse Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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