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Barrel cutting and chrome damage


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You will always be open to the chrome flaking if you cut the barrel.

Is there any cutting techniques that could minimize the chance of chrome flaking?

 

Lathe.

What is the consequences of chrome flaking? increased wear? Decreased accuracy with slugs?

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We cut chrome-lined barrels all the time. The key is, as Bob said, to use a lathe. Basically we do an initial cut on the bandsaw about 1/2" longer than we want the barrel to be. Then we cut it off with a steady rest and a cut-off bit. Then use a standard single point carbide cutter and set the compound to around 45 degrees, put the compound and cutter in place and draw the bit outward to cut your crown. This will leave a clean cut and no flaked edges.

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While I'd never argue the professional advice given here to do it the right way, I can tell you from a hobbyist standpoint that the 2 I've done with a saw were a non issue as far as flaking goes, from the looks of the stub I can't even imagine it ever being an issue. If someone has pics of said flaking I'd be very interested in seeing them. I have a stub here that I'll take pictures of tomorrow when there's good light.

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While I'd never argue the professional advice given here to do it the right way, I can tell you from a hobbyist standpoint that the 2 I've done with a saw were a non issue as far as flaking goes, from the looks of the stub I can't even imagine it ever being an issue. If someone has pics of said flaking I'd be very interested in seeing them. I have a stub here that I'll take pictures of tomorrow when there's good light.

I would love to see a picture of it. I have never heard of chrome flaking, but due to the fact that I have never cut a barrel I was just wargaming everything that could go wrong and finding mitigation measures for it.

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I don't think I've ever seen anyone report flaking chrome in a shotgun barrel.

 

I have seen reports of flaking chrome in AK pistol builds (where they cut down military barrels).

That is my concern. Flaking where I cut the barrel. I just want to get as much info as possible before attempting the project.

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We cut chrome-lined barrels all the time. The key is, as Bob said, to use a lathe. Basically we do an initial cut on the bandsaw about 1/2" longer than we want the barrel to be. Then we cut it off with a steady rest and a cut-off bit. Then use a standard single point carbide cutter and set the compound to around 45 degrees, put the compound and cutter in place and draw the bit outward to cut your crown. This will leave a clean cut and no flaked edges.

Would a 90 degree crown reamer work as well?

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We cut chrome-lined barrels all the time. The key is, as Bob said, to use a lathe. Basically we do an initial cut on the bandsaw about 1/2" longer than we want the barrel to be. Then we cut it off with a steady rest and a cut-off bit. Then use a standard single point carbide cutter and set the compound to around 45 degrees, put the compound and cutter in place and draw the bit outward to cut your crown. This will leave a clean cut and no flaked edges.

Would a 90 degree crown reamer work as well?

 

I wouldn't work as well. Chrome is very hard and if you try to cut through it to quickly it has a tendency to chip rather than cut. The key to getting a clean cut on a chrome-lined barrel is to cut through the chrome first, hence why I was saying to start with the cutter in the bore and draw it outward.

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While I'd never argue the professional advice given here to do it the right way, I can tell you from a hobbyist standpoint that the 2 I've done with a saw were a non issue as far as flaking goes, from the looks of the stub I can't even imagine it ever being an issue. If someone has pics of said flaking I'd be very interested in seeing them. I have a stub here that I'll take pictures of tomorrow when there's good light.

I would love to see a picture of it. I have never heard of chrome flaking, but due to the fact that I have never cut a barrel I was just wargaming everything that could go wrong and finding mitigation measures for it.

 

 

Hard to get a good picture but I did my best.

 

sbs.jpg

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While I'd never argue the professional advice given here to do it the right way, I can tell you from a hobbyist standpoint that the 2 I've done with a saw were a non issue as far as flaking goes, from the looks of the stub I can't even imagine it ever being an issue. If someone has pics of said flaking I'd be very interested in seeing them. I have a stub here that I'll take pictures of tomorrow when there's good light.

I would love to see a picture of it. I have never heard of chrome flaking, but due to the fact that I have never cut a barrel I was just wargaming everything that could go wrong and finding mitigation measures for it.

 

 

Hard to get a good picture but I did my best.

 

sbs.jpg

Do you keep your crown at 90 degrees and then just thread and add your brake or do you use a different angle?

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While I'd never argue the professional advice given here to do it the right way, I can tell you from a hobbyist standpoint that the 2 I've done with a saw were a non issue as far as flaking goes, from the looks of the stub I can't even imagine it ever being an issue. If someone has pics of said flaking I'd be very interested in seeing them. I have a stub here that I'll take pictures of tomorrow when there's good light.

I would love to see a picture of it. I have never heard of chrome flaking, but due to the fact that I have never cut a barrel I was just wargaming everything that could go wrong and finding mitigation measures for it.

 

 

Hard to get a good picture but I did my best.

 

sbs.jpg

What did you use to cut the barrel?

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Saiga-12 barrels are internally hard chrome finished that is way more durable than chrome plating on say like, old car bumpers or bowling trophies. It normally will not flake but, it can chip if abused. I used a simple mitre-box and carbide hacksaw blade to cut mine down from 22 inches to 19. The Saiga-12 barrel steel far harder and thicker than American shotgun barrels and needs to be dressed down lightly with a file after the cut is complete.

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As previously mentioned, the industrial hard chrome used to line barrels is much tougher than regular bumper chrome. Well done, it has a very good bond to the base metal, and generally won't flake. However, nothing is impossible to screw up.

 

The best methods to cut any chrome lined barrel is to cut it long, and then finish it back, being careful not to put pressure towards the bore from the outside. This lessens the chance of "pushing off" the chrome at the muzzle, and starting it to flaking. Either cut from the inside out, like KingArmory mentioned, using a sharp carbide bit, or it can be finished straight towards the breech, like a muzzle crowning tool, but using an abrasive tool, such a grinding type bit, being careful to go slow, to not generate too much heat, and to let the tool do its job.

 

The problem with using a standard muzzle facing tool is that most are High Speed Steel, and the chrome lining is very close to being as hard as the tool is. If it's a cheaply made tool, the chrome will be harder than the tool, and you're essentially breaking the chrome out, not cutting it.

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As previously mentioned, the industrial hard chrome used to line barrels is much tougher than regular bumper chrome. Well done, it has a very good bond to the base metal, and generally won't flake. However, nothing is impossible to screw up.

 

The best methods to cut any chrome lined barrel is to cut it long, and then finish it back, being careful not to put pressure towards the bore from the outside. This lessens the chance of "pushing off" the chrome at the muzzle, and starting it to flaking. Either cut from the inside out, like KingArmory mentioned, using a sharp carbide bit, or it can be finished straight towards the breech, like a muzzle crowning tool, but using an abrasive tool, such a grinding type bit, being careful to go slow, to not generate too much heat, and to let the tool do its job.

 

The problem with using a standard muzzle facing tool is that most are High Speed Steel, and the chrome lining is very close to being as hard as the tool is. If it's a cheaply made tool, the chrome will be harder than the tool, and you're essentially breaking the chrome out, not cutting it.

Could I use a dremal cutting wheel to cut the barrel and a crowning reamer to square it up before threading?

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