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Moving Trigger Assembly


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Alright guys I have the :dollar: CASH :dollar: now to buy a pistol grip.

I have a few questions on the trigger assembly move.

 

What kind or type of grip do I need to buy? :super: Websites would be nice!!!!!

 

I need a website that shows how to do it set by set.

 

Whats tools will I need? Any special tools???

I have a dremel tool but what peices do I need to buy for it?

 

Am I going to need paint? If I do what kind and type?

 

Thanks Guyz

 

-----I have a .308 (of course) 16 inch barrel.-----

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here you go man.

blackjackbuffers.com has everything you need to do the conversion. any us made ak grip will work, you also need the following: pistol grip nut, single hook fire control group(G2), shepards crook replacement,ak buffer(the green works well,not necessary, but highly recommended), and a us made buttstock.

 

as far as tools, a hacksaw(makes straighter cuts, and to shorten the barrel) or dremel cut off disk(also used to make safety lever bolt hold open), hammer, punch set(makes removing the rivets easier after grinding the heads down), dremel metal grinding stone(to grind rivet heads),drill w/cobalt bits(they work the best), pop rivets and gun,or nuts and bolts(to reattach trigger guard,and a bench vise,clamp, or 2nd pair of hands to help hold the rifle.

 

for the paint-krylon bbq paint is about an exact match........and its cheap.

 

heres some links to get you started.

http://www.cross-conn.com/Saiga_Conversion/

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=2042

 

feel free to ask ?s on the board, or pm me if you need any help.

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Buy anything you can from http://www.dpharms.com/modules/shop/specials.php. His prices were the best around (I just converted mine like a month ago). I got one of Blackjack's green buffers, but I really don't see any reason to buy one of those shepherd's crook replacements, other than the cool factor. I mean, how often are you really gonna be removing your trigger group? I would also stay away from the AR adapter/stock combo; it doesn't really sit where it should. The collapsible stock from DPH, which is a TAPCO stock looks like it would work better.

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Ya on my .308 I dont have those "sporter trigger pins" on step 2 #1 it says to drill out these pins.

 

Well I dont have them on my gun.

 

In fact the trigger doesns't look the same on my gun, and whats shown in the pictures.

 

CAN ANYONE HELP ME?????

 

 

thx

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You are right. The .308 doesn't have the back two trigger pins in the reciever. You can just skip that step. On that model the Saiga triger is made longer so there is no need for the rear pins. It also results in a crappy trigger pull. Once you put the AK trigger in the trigger pull will feel much more natural.

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Do any of the .308's have original military trigger hole in the receiver.

 

I was wondering b/c I wanna try to do minimial cutting into the receiver?

 

Is there any way to see if the holes are there?

 

And how the hell do I take the trigger assembly out?

 

Since I dont have to drill those 2 rivets out im lost.

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There are TWO pins that go thru the receiver retained by a spring.... remove that spring... the parts will almost literally FALL OUT... excep the hammer, its own spring will kinda keep it retained, you will need to twist it and rotate it out....That spring is called the "shepherds crook. and thats the spring that you can keep, replace with E clips, or a Shepherds crook retainer plate you have maybe heard so much about...

 

If you LOOK at the bottom of the receiver, you SHOULD see that there is a hole and yes... there is in mine... I am LOOKING at it now...

 

So.... when you do a conversion... it will be EVEN EASIER... as you dont have two rivet pins in the back to mess with , just the TWO BASIC easily removable pins holding the trigger assembly and hammer in place!!!

 

CAKE!!!

 

 

:smoke:

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If you dont plan to use anything other than Saiga mags, you do not need a bullet guide YET... you can ALWAYS add one later!

 

Second... the only CUTTING you need to do is with a dremel if you DONT WANT TO DRILL OUT RIVETS... you can CUT the rivet heads then punch them out with a punch and a small hammer.

 

there is a tack weld on the trigger housing you will need to drill out...and thats a BITCH its a hard weld... USE A GOOD BRAND NEW BIT for STEEL... and DRILL SLOW And use some oil to cool the drilling process....

 

Once thats done, and the TWO front and back rivets are headless, remove the trigger housing, then go after the tack welds holding the bottom receiver plate to the receiver. I would try to pry the plate up from the back and hit those with a dremel so as not to NEED to drill into the receiver itself...

 

OR you can just use a dremel and CUT THE DIMPLE in the receiver plate cover FLUSH with the receiver.... leaving the extra 1/16th inch of metal there.... wont hurt anything if you do... more than enough tolerances to do that...

 

and it might be the EASIEST way to go about it.....

 

:smoke:

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ufo, do a search of this forum. I and several have already done this conversion and left lots of info/pics in other threads that would be to your benefit. I know I have pics of the stock FCG compared to the new one, what the trigger hole/PG nut cutout looks like prior to removing the bottom plate, and what the new FCG hammer mod looks like. It will answer many more of your questions (present and future).

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BlenderWizard, GREAT website man thanks I bought his LAST G2 single hook kit, SAW pistol grip and the grip screw and nut.

 

Is there any more parts that I need to buy?

 

Thanks for all your help guys, when I'm done later this week with this I'll post some pics.

 

-UFO

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Gunkote is a heat activated resin type finish compared to paint which is a chemical activated polymer.

 

Its much more chip resistant and adheres better. Its also more unforgiving in prep and application than paint and a lot more expensive. Its a good alternative to parkerizing a whole rifle, if all you are doing is touching up or patching, try paint 1st.

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Yeah, I did my whole rifle with it, and man, you are dead right about it being unforgiving in prep work. Isays to wear rubber gloves and use lacquer thinner or acetone to degrease it, and YOU HAVE TO DO THIS. I messed some little pice of metal up before my first time with gunkote, but the Saiga turned out just fine.

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Where can I get this stuff?

 

online? wal-mart? home-depot? lowes?

 

Thanks Guys

 

Im hoping to get all the parts today, to finish the assembly work Im watching the mail box intensely.

GunKote? http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/Pro...ail.aspx?p=1150. I would (and did) use the matte black on the Saiga, but the choice is yours.

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Alright I finished the conversion guys but I have left over part!!!!

 

On the shepards spring how does it go in there???

Left side or right side?

What does it do?

 

Im using the original spring.

 

Its seems also that the trigger pin is a little loose and the hammer pin is kinda tight.

 

I also had to grind down the bolt carrier assembly a little bit. And it still kinda sticks when cocking.

 

Is that bad?

 

 

And how do I fix the saftey?

I dont wanna kill myself.

 

Thanks Guyz

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