Phoenix Maximus 1 Posted June 27, 2009 Report Share Posted June 27, 2009 I thinking if tapping turns into to big of a pain I'd just drill down through and put a stop nut on the bottom (kind that has nylon in it to keep it from loosening.) seems like people worried that those using jbweld or locktite will cause it to blow up would appreciate the fact that there is NO way this thing will come apart. just tighten it down and paint it black.... could even glue a nut cap over it so it's more rounded.... just curious to if there was a reason not to consider this. not doubting I could easily tap both guns without breaking the tap, just wondering if this wouldn't be both easier and even more secure.... mostly curious. asked this repeatedly in another thread, was the screaming elephant in the room no one would respond to so NEW THREAD TIME! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted June 27, 2009 Report Share Posted June 27, 2009 I guess that no one has tried it, so no one answered. However, I don't see anything wrong with it from a design standpoint. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rhodes1968 1,638 Posted June 27, 2009 Report Share Posted June 27, 2009 Ive even seen people just JB Weld these things into place and shoot thousands of rounds like that. There is a thread somewhere on this but Im just too lazy to find it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pm-40 0 Posted June 27, 2009 Report Share Posted June 27, 2009 (edited) I accidently through away the screw that my guide came with but I have a whole box of 6/32 screws and nuts so I used one of them. I did try to get the nut on but found it to difficult to line up the nut with pliers in the small space under the gun so I gave up. I am thinking of putting a glob of JB on the bottom to act as a nut. Edited June 28, 2009 by pm-40 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phoenix Maximus 1 Posted June 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2009 my whole thing is instead of screwing with oil everywhere and I need a tap wrench I could just run it down a bit more and bolt the guide on.... just always trust nuts on bolts more than just a screw and I think it'd be easier and cheaper.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bizzarolibe 5 Posted June 27, 2009 Report Share Posted June 27, 2009 I actually had that exact same idea. You're talking about drilling through the whole receiver right? When I put mine in (home-made) I did use the tap/screw method. I found it to be pretty easy. I just sprayed some CLP on the tap and went to town. A tap wrench can be had for like 5$. Really though, I think either way would be fine. I mean, all you're doing is adding a piece of metal below the barrel, so if you can find a way to stick it there so it won't move (or impede the workings of the gun) that's all you really need. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phoenix Maximus 1 Posted June 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2009 I actually had that exact same idea. You're talking about drilling through the whole receiver right? When I put mine in (home-made) I did use the tap/screw method. I found it to be pretty easy. I just sprayed some CLP on the tap and went to town. A tap wrench can be had for like 5$. Really though, I think either way would be fine. I mean, all you're doing is adding a piece of metal below the barrel, so if you can find a way to stick it there so it won't move (or impede the workings of the gun) that's all you really need. yeah, all the way through so that you'd have a nut on the bottom between the mag and the handguard. Think we have a tap wrench at work, probably have some cutting oil if I really looked, for whatever reason though I'm really liking the hole nut and bolt idea Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mstranglr 9 Posted June 27, 2009 Report Share Posted June 27, 2009 Maybe its just me, but I find installing the bullet guide to be the easiest part of the conversion. Get the Dinzag kit, its cheap and comes with everything. Center punch, drill, tap, lock-tite - 10 minutes max but normally a 5 minute job. I have done many rifles and have never had a problem. Borrow a tap wrench from a neighbor, family, or maintenance guy at your work - you only need it for a few minutes. I would stay away from JB weld and do it right, especially since doing it right is so easy. Follow the installation instructions on Dinzag's website and you cant go wrong. If you have the skills to take the bottom plate off and move the trigger guard forward, the bullet guide should be a snap. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nalioth 405 Posted June 27, 2009 Report Share Posted June 27, 2009 To have a nut sticking out of your receiver is ghetto. It also won't work very well because there is open space between the receiver floor and the barrel trunnion. If you break a tap off, here are some options (listed by ease of accomplishment) 1) go buy another tap and charlie mike 2) take the gun to your local welder and have them plug weld the whole contraption together (or do it yourself, if you have the welding equipment) 3) Tennessee Guns has used substandard epoxy in some of their "builds". Buy good epoxy and have fun. 4) go old school and rivet that bad boy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ninja steve 0 Posted June 27, 2009 Report Share Posted June 27, 2009 Used JB weld on mine. Almost 1000 rounds through it and no worse for the wear. I check it before and after I shoot just cause I'm paranoid though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phoenix Maximus 1 Posted June 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2009 Maybe its just me, but I find installing the bullet guide to be the easiest part of the conversion. Get the Dinzag kit, its cheap and comes with everything. Center punch, drill, tap, lock-tite - 10 minutes max but normally a 5 minute job. I have done many rifles and have never had a problem. Borrow a tap wrench from a neighbor, family, or maintenance guy at your work - you only need it for a few minutes. I would stay away from JB weld and do it right, especially since doing it right is so easy. Follow the installation instructions on Dinzag's website and you cant go wrong. If you have the skills to take the bottom plate off and move the trigger guard forward, the bullet guide should be a snap. totally ignored what I said.... I AM the maintenance guy, have no doubts I can tap the thing, just looking for an alternative. already bought the kits, from Dinzag's.... Nalioth - ghetto? a space less than 1 square inch on the bottom of my AK, that's the same color as the rest of the gun will make it ghetto? and having space between two pieces of metal won't make a difference when it comes to tightening a nut onto a bolt unless it's really flimsy metal which I doubt. it would honestly be a small black bump between the mag and the handguard.... I'm one of those people who don't polish their guns, make them works of art and then get into a giant metaphor of a prick measuring contest. it's a gun. whoever sees it will be a close friend or soon to die enemy, neither of which deal in ghetto.... hell, AK's ARE ghetto! That's the sweetness behind them. All the 3rd world countries and terrorists have them and for a good reason, tough as hell, easily built and they're tools.... I wanted something pretty I'd get a nice AR and trick it out.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paprotective 362 Posted June 27, 2009 Report Share Posted June 27, 2009 I have a Glock in 45 (with a 400 chrome/stnls bbl) (thats ghetto).. No, I agree AK's are considered 'ghetto' by 'us' but to the urban kids (who sell narcotics) they are HOT and AWESOME.. Trust me.. Been there and 'done' that... I'm reformed NOW.. yeah.. ok.. haha. I was in the military and these AK's are made with HARD steel (might as well be spring-steel). I was going to go Thermold US Made (30 rnd) and went Bulgy (30 rnd) by whoopsy... Just got to get 1 more part then I'm square again. I'm not crying about it or caring for that matter.. I'm GHETTO and like it. Lol back on topic... I'm ordering the Kit from Dinzag but if I get into a problem with it, I'm just welding it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phoenix Maximus 1 Posted June 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2009 I like my crap being a bit ghetto and rigged. don't want to weld it, prolly tap the things but I figured could take a easy 10 minute kinda messy job into a 1 minute straight and simple approach Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nalioth 405 Posted June 27, 2009 Report Share Posted June 27, 2009 You're missing my point. If you drill all the way through your receiver and put the nut on the bottom, you're stupid. I don't usually call folks stupid, but if you were to do that, you'd be exhibiting a great lack of intellectual acuity The receiver has an open space below the barrel trunnion. You put the nut INSIDE the receiver and against the barrel trunnion. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phoenix Maximus 1 Posted June 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2009 You're missing my point. If you drill all the way through your receiver and put the nut on the bottom, you're stupid. I don't usually call folks stupid, but if you were to do that, you'd be exhibiting a great lack of intellectual acuity The receiver has an open space below the barrel trunnion. You put the nut INSIDE the receiver and against the barrel trunnion. guess it would depend on if a nut fits in that gap and if I could find a bolt that's the exact length needed.... all the way through the bolt can be longer and I could grind it down past the nut.... could never do that in the gap so it'd have to be pretty precise.... too long and it sticks up in front of the chamber, too short and it doesn't tighten Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nalioth 405 Posted June 27, 2009 Report Share Posted June 27, 2009 guess it would depend on if a nut fits in that gap and if I could find a bolt that's the exact length needed.... all the way through the bolt can be longer and I could grind it down past the nut.... could never do that in the gap so it'd have to be pretty precise.... too long and it sticks up in front of the chamber, too short and it doesn't tightenIt can't be that hard, hundreds of tap-breakers have done it. . . There's more room than you think. I managed to squeeze a bucking bar in there when I did the one in the .223. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
saigafan12345 21 Posted June 27, 2009 Report Share Posted June 27, 2009 Used JB weld on mine. Almost 1000 rounds through it and no worse for the wear. I check it before and after I shoot just cause I'm paranoid though. That rifle in your signature? you did a bullet guide but didn't convert and just used the CRAPCO T6? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phoenix Maximus 1 Posted June 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2009 guess it would depend on if a nut fits in that gap and if I could find a bolt that's the exact length needed.... all the way through the bolt can be longer and I could grind it down past the nut.... could never do that in the gap so it'd have to be pretty precise.... too long and it sticks up in front of the chamber, too short and it doesn't tightenIt can't be that hard, hundreds of tap-breakers have done it. . . There's more room than you think. I managed to squeeze a bucking bar in there when I did the one in the .223. went and checked, from the front it does seem like there's a good amount of room in there. once the guide gets in I'll have to go get bolts and nuts, but if the thing can be nutted on AND not visible, why the hell does anyone screw with the tap? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nalioth 405 Posted June 28, 2009 Report Share Posted June 28, 2009 went and checked, from the front it does seem like there's a good amount of room in there. once the guide gets in I'll have to go get bolts and nuts, but if the thing can be nutted on AND not visible, why the hell does anyone screw with the tap? Because everyone knows tapping a hole is better than playing with nuts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phoenix Maximus 1 Posted June 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2009 went and checked, from the front it does seem like there's a good amount of room in there. once the guide gets in I'll have to go get bolts and nuts, but if the thing can be nutted on AND not visible, why the hell does anyone screw with the tap? Because everyone knows tapping a hole is better than playing with nuts. lmao!! alright, ya got me Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shades_of_grey 1,092 Posted June 28, 2009 Report Share Posted June 28, 2009 went and checked, from the front it does seem like there's a good amount of room in there. once the guide gets in I'll have to go get bolts and nuts, but if the thing can be nutted on AND not visible, why the hell does anyone screw with the tap? Because everyone knows tapping a hole is better than playing with nuts. Indeed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rhodes1968 1,638 Posted June 28, 2009 Report Share Posted June 28, 2009 Wouldn't a bolt or nut located under the chamber interfere with some hand guards mounting? Some extend further into the receiver IIRC. Some people find using something like JBweld undesirable but that stuff is unreal heat chemicals nothing seems to degrade it, try removing some its a chore. Myself its a perfect application, low stress wedge point done right it looks good. Just keep it off the barrel by all costs. Seen some amazing repairs using it on engines but hey to each his own. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pm-40 0 Posted June 28, 2009 Report Share Posted June 28, 2009 (edited) I always here people knocking JB but has anyone used it and had it fail in this application? I did have some difficulty in tapping mine but with help frome this forum got it done. Edited June 28, 2009 by pm-40 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paprotective 362 Posted June 28, 2009 Report Share Posted June 28, 2009 Let not forget the price comparison??? How THICK do you apply it where the bulletguide should be?? That would be the question as you only get one shot at it?? And will it stick to the bare metal or do you need a hole to grab onto?? I'll just beat this thred to death I guess.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pm-40 0 Posted June 28, 2009 Report Share Posted June 28, 2009 (edited) It sounds like you just JB the guide in not make a guide out of JB.Yes it will stick to bare mettle and cane be filed and drilled. Edited June 28, 2009 by pm-40 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phoenix Maximus 1 Posted June 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2009 I still like putting a nut into the slot and drilling down into the gap..... wow that sounds dirty. here's a question.... has ANYONE out there had a solution to the bullet guide other than tapping which failed? anyone jbweld it or locktite it and have it not hold? keep hearing people tell others it won't work, never hear that it didn't work Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pm-40 0 Posted June 29, 2009 Report Share Posted June 29, 2009 (edited) I still like putting a nut into the slot and drilling down into the gap..... wow that sounds dirty. here's a question.... has ANYONE out there had a solution to the bullet guide other than tapping which failed? anyone jbweld it or locktite it and have it not hold? keep hearing people tell others it won't work, never hear that it didn't work I already asked that question and no reply yet. Edited June 29, 2009 by pm-40 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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