New idea to fix brass denting!

[Pathfind3r 0]

I don't want to pay $50 for an ejection port buffer (aka piece of rubber) and even if I did they seem to be out of stock everywhere.

 

I usualy just shoot russian berdan primed, but I did buy some reloadable Prvi Partizan (300 rounds or so) and I want to save this brass. My first trip to the range with my Saiga 223 left me with completly destroyed brass....

 

I have not tried using weather stripping, it just looks and feels unappealing to me so here is what I came up with:

 

 

 

This is a synthetic paint-on rubber coating (not applied yet in this picture). The plasti-dip was $7 for a big bottle (14oz I think). I'm going to put several coats right around the ejection port on the receiver cover and see how it holds up. The bottle says its fine for extreme heat and impact, but I imagine I will need to touch it up every 5 or 6 trips to the range, we'l see... hopefully this will help things. I'll post an update and some pictures of spent brass after I complete this and test it out. I'm letting the first coat dry now.

[jgillaspy 24]

This sounds cool. I look forward to hearing how well it works!

[Reverendfranz 160]

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[FelixLegion 0]

This is a great idea.

 

Please be sure to share all the specifics: how you dipped it, how many coats, how it held on...

 

Thanks and GL!

[Darth AkSarBen 20]

I have looked at this too. BTW, silicon does not stick to the coating on the metal, this I found out. What about cutting the dust cover back a ways, and perhpas a slit up to creat a "flange" so to speak to nullify the sharp edge.

 

Anyone ever shoot rounds without the dust cover on? That piece, looks all to me, as exactly what it says, a cover. Does not function except to keep dust, lint and debris out of the mechanism.

 

Another though is to cut back a ways, rivet a short piece of fairly stiff plastic in there and then it would deflect the bullets in a downard pitch. Right now, it seems to throw them forward of the rifle, whereas the AR-15 I shot this weekend throws the brass into a nice little pile, right and back a short ways behind the shooter.

 

I have used a cardboard box for testing rounds as a steady device. Cut a V in front and back and rest the rifle in there. If you put the box flap up against the scope, ALL the rounds drop down inside the box.

[Darth AkSarBen 20]

By the way, the dented brass is reloadable. I have reloaded and shot the dented brass. Works fine, just ugly.

[Pathfind3r 0]

By the way, the dented brass is reloadable. I have reloaded and shot the dented brass. Works fine, just ugly.

 

 

My brass isn't "dented" so much as destroyed. It is definatly not reloadable when it comes out of my saiga.

[Darth AkSarBen 20]

By the way, the dented brass is reloadable. I have reloaded and shot the dented brass. Works fine, just ugly.

 

 

My brass isn't "dented" so much as destroyed. It is definatly not reloadable when it comes out of my saiga.

 

Define destroyed. Do you have a picture of the severly damaged brass? I also see a heavy mark on the brass where it is hit by the ejector as it comes back. It MUST come back at some extremely fast rate to put that much ding on the brass. Is there a way to cushion the rearward force? Ruger Mini-14 owners use a smaller dia. port in their rifles to keep the brass from flying into the next zip code, and it works well. Could one put on a stiffer, secondary spring to help damper the rearward force? My milder handloads seem to have less brass impressions, and may be because of lighter overall pressures. But, with retail ammo, this is not a given.

 

Open up the side of the dust cover, prepare a deflector, and decrease the amount of rearward force with a heavier rebound spring. These ideas might lessen the brass damage.

[JK-47 33]

Ak's function violently, and are meant to do so, it is part of why they are so reliable. You could probably lessen the impact slightly if you could find a 5% or 10% increased strength recoil spring, I'd check with Wolff springs to see if they produce such a thing. I've heard that most .223 AK's are overgased, so a slightly smaller gas port might help, but how would one reduce a gas port once it's drilled? The other thing you might try is switching to a gastube with vents, permiting the pressure on the piston to drop a bit faster.

[Reverendfranz 160]

Ak's function violently, and are meant to do so, it is part of why they are so reliable. You could probably lessen the impact slightly if you could find a 5% or 10% increased strength recoil spring, I'd check with Wolff springs to see if they produce such a thing. I've heard that most .223 AK's are overgased, so a slightly smaller gas port might help, but how would one reduce a gas port once it's drilled? The other thing you might try is switching to a gastube with vents, permiting the pressure on the piston to drop a bit faster.

 

You can reduce a gas port by removing the gas block, drilling the gas port on the gas block much larger and inserting a limiting bushing. PITA. springs would be easier.

[5whiskey 0]

Ak's function violently, and are meant to do so, it is part of why they are so reliable. You could probably lessen the impact slightly if you could find a 5% or 10% increased strength recoil spring, I'd check with Wolff springs to see if they produce such a thing. I've heard that most .223 AK's are overgased, so a slightly smaller gas port might help, but how would one reduce a gas port once it's drilled? The other thing you might try is switching to a gastube with vents, permiting the pressure on the piston to drop a bit faster.

 

This man speaks truth. I think the gas tube with vents would be annoying as heck, to the point of making it a bad idea (this is my theory, it may not be that bad), but it seems like my .223 saiga is very violent in operation. More so than a standard AK. I suspect that RAA used the same gas system designed for a 30k psi round and put it on a rifle chambered for a 55k psi round. I don't know for sure, so if I'm wrong please correct me.

 

You can reduce a gas port by removing the gas block, drilling the gas port on the gas block much larger and inserting a limiting bushing. PITA. springs would be easier.

 

That's an idea, but I would think it'd have to be done in a very stout manner to keep from blowing the bushing out.

[Darth AkSarBen 20]

What about the size of the gas piston? Couldn't the severity of the recoil/action be mitigated so some degree by simpy using a little smaller piston? It would simply allow more gas "slipage" to get by the piston as it traveled rearward.

[arizona98tj 0]

A couple of $$ at the auto parts store will cure the brass denting issue.......at least it did for me.

 

 

 

[Darth AkSarBen 20]

I see you have it on the upper part of the dust cover. I tried to put it on the curve piece near the back of the dust cover. That is where it seemed to be hitting the most. I also took my Dremel and cut the slot at a more slight angle and now the brass flings to the rear and back and not forward.