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Single hook and double hook trigger group


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#1 towerofpower93

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Posted 13 September 2009 - 07:14 PM

I'm new to the S12 world and merely replacing parts for compliance and am curious about the difference between the single hook and double hook trigger groups I'm seeing on the market.

What's the difference?

Which should I be putting in my S12 and why?

Thanks in advance for the info.

Eric

#2 Modiano

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Posted 13 September 2009 - 07:25 PM

your saiga is designed for a single hook. you'll see a single cut-out about an 1/8" wide on the bottom of the receiver infront of the trigger hole. a double hook trigger would require making a second cut-out.

i forgot who, but a regular user on this forum installed a double hook trigger on his single hook receiver and meticulously ground down the second hook so it would block the trigger from traveling too far forward...aka removing slack from his trigger. not a bad idea at all, maybe i'll do the same on my next ak-style gun

advantage a standard double hook has over a standard single hook: none as far as i've seen, but i'm no expert

#3 armored

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Posted 14 September 2009 - 12:15 AM

I just installed a Texas AK double hook trigger when I did my Saiga 12 conversion.
As stated you must cut a second slot in the receiver for the 2nd hook. Not a big deal,a few minutes work.
I liked the Texas AK trigger, that's why I went with a double hook(thats the way they make them).
NO regrets.

#4 towerofpower93

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Posted 14 September 2009 - 10:20 AM

Thanks to both of you.

Eric

#5 post-apocalyptic

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Posted 14 September 2009 - 12:30 PM

Afaik, a double-hook trigger just adds, (generally unnecessary), redundancy to the trigger design. The AK-47 originally had a double-hook trigger.. but once they figured out that it wasn't really necessary, (no trigger hooks were breaking/failing), they switched to single-hook as the standard

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#6 towerofpower93

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Posted 14 September 2009 - 12:40 PM

So if I purchase a single hook trigger group from CSS what else would I need on the side of hardware? How dificult is the removal of the factory trigger group (need a dremel?)? I've seen the video on CSS on how to install the trigger group, but I have never seen video on how to remove a trigger group when you're NOT moving it forward.

Thanks

Eric

#7 camon

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Posted 14 September 2009 - 01:06 PM

So if I purchase a single hook trigger group from CSS what else would I need on the side of hardware? How dificult is the removal of the factory trigger group (need a dremel?)? I've seen the video on CSS on how to install the trigger group, but I have never seen video on how to remove a trigger group when you're NOT moving it forward.

Thanks

Eric


I've never heard of anyone not moving the FCG during a conversion and using something other than the stock stuff and TBH I'm not sure it's possible.

But then again I am a noob at this stuff so maybe it is... I would imagine that in order to you would have to cut the finger loop off the trigger. And if you get the tapco FCG and not the pre-modified one then you would definitely need a Dremel to flatten the hump on the hammer and shorten the right side of the pinloop for the BHO.

*PS if I used some weird/incorrect terms and definitions of parts sue me, as stated gun noob.
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#8 towerofpower93

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Posted 14 September 2009 - 01:09 PM

Camon

I realized the same thing (can't remove w/o converting) after doing some more looking around....so I'm just going to convert. Gives me an excuse to buy a dremel:)

#9 Gibbles

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Posted 14 September 2009 - 04:09 PM

I used a double hook in my conversion.
The main reason why I did was because of my Romy SAR-1.
It has tons and tons of rounds through the barrel, and lots of bumpfiring, from me and the prev guy that owned it, the barrel is so worn that the rifling down the barrel kinda looks like the barrel in my glock. :unsure:

Anyways the issue is with the trigger holes in the reciever, on the left hand side it's egged out and there is tons of slop, it got so bad that the hook would fall off of the trigger once in a while, and sometimes it would bind on the hammer.
I decided that the main cause was the hammer hitting that one knotch caused uneven wear on the reciever + the lots of trigger movement from the unknown amount of rounds down the barrel.

It now has a double hook trigger and it works great, and is still ticking along, and I noticed a smoother trigger pull, but I think it's just because the factory trigger was just shit.
I did the same with the AK kit I put together, and I figured why not the S12 also.

#10 Modiano

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Posted 14 September 2009 - 09:31 PM

So if I purchase a single hook trigger group from CSS what else would I need on the side of hardware? How dificult is the removal of the factory trigger group (need a dremel?)?


i've only done the conversion on my 1 saiga-20. i read and studied up on this forum, read the cross-con page, and watched the dude's vid series on youtube 5+ times. after that, i was fully confident to convert my saiga (i had no gunsmithing exp and this is my first ak-style weapon, btw). the experts may need to chime in to correct me, but...

you'll need:
#1 fcg. i used a tapco g2 single hook. i used a dremel to grind down the right side of the hammer to allow room for the bolt-hold-open. the fire control group counts as 3 parts when you use a US-made product. of course, you can buy a modified fcg ready to drop into your saiga, but it's much cheaper just to grind a sale-priced g2 down
#2 some type of retaining device. most guys and gals recommend a retaining plate that has been designed/modified for saigas. i went with e-clips from the hardware store. don't remember the size offhand, but it was kinda tricky. the correctly sized e-clips were small and thin, which made them a pain in the ass to install/remove. i ended up going with a size or two larger (thicker and bigger in diameter) and using pliers to pinch them down to the size i needed. once i found the e-clips i was happy with, i went back and bought a second set just in case the first ones get mangled when i decide to remove the fcg (which hasn't happened yet, and i don't really foresee the need anytime soon). it's been well over a year since my conversion, and at least 800rds of birdshot and 200rds and buck and slugs, so the clips have held up with flying colors so far.

is a dremel required, no. dremels are affordable and generally handy, but a drill press is ideal for drilling out the original rivets a grinding wheel or drill attachment works just as well for grinding off the hammer to make room the the BHO. if you don't have access to intermediate-level garage tools, a dremel and electric hand drill will suffice.

#11 towerofpower93

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Posted 15 September 2009 - 11:28 AM

I went ahead and bought the Tromix FCG and DIY trigger guard from CSS after seeing there had been someissues with tapco ones recently.

Thanks for all the help guys.

Eric

#12 camon

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Posted 15 September 2009 - 12:16 PM

I went ahead and bought the Tromix FCG and DIY trigger guard from CSS after seeing there had been someissues with tapco ones recently.

Thanks for all the help guys.

Eric


Woot. But the Tromix FCG is the Tapco FCG but modified for you so you don't have to do the work.
I would imagine however that they check to make sure they aren't sending out FCGs affected by the recall.
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#13 towerofpower93

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Posted 15 September 2009 - 04:39 PM


I went ahead and bought the Tromix FCG and DIY trigger guard from CSS after seeing there had been someissues with tapco ones recently.

Thanks for all the help guys.

Eric


Woot. But the Tromix FCG is the Tapco FCG but modified for you so you don't have to do the work.
I would imagine however that they check to make sure they aren't sending out FCGs affected by the recall.


Im aware they are one in the same, but like you said...I'm sure they check to make sure lemons aren't getting sent out.

#14 post-apocalyptic

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Posted 15 September 2009 - 04:43 PM

I'm sure they do. But if somehow a defective one ever got past em, I'm sure they'd replace it instantly and free of charge. Tromix's customer service is impressive to say the least.

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