how do I get the trigger plate rivets off?

[jimdigriz 580]

I've filed down the rivets virtually completely flat. It doesn't seem like further filing efforts are doing anything other than scratching the finish in places I don't want scratched. I'm about to try and drill the spot weld, but the step-by-step web page tells me to center punch it first, and not to center punch without a backing anvil, or I will distort the receiver. Well, I don't have a backing anvil, will not be getting one, and don't have a vice either. What are my options? I have some blocks of wood I can put under it, is that good enough?

 

Thanks.

 

Jim

Edited September 25, 2009 by Jim Digriz

[saigafreake 27]

thats why i love my automatic center punches pops them right out when i get to that point.

Edited September 25, 2009 by saigafreake

[jimdigriz 580]

thats why i love my automatic center punches pops them right out when i get to that point.

 

Maybe I'll go get one at Lowe's. Is it important what size center punch I use for the rivets and spot weld?

 

Thanks.

[saigafreake 27]

ive only ever seen one size automatic center punch. u will have to drill through the spot weld.

[Paulyski 2,227]

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE HIGH QUALITY DRILL BITS.

 

Milwaukee bits cut the metal well.

 

Cheap lowes (cobalt) or the cheap brands will hardly scratch the surface.

 

Don't even try.

[imarangemaster 315]

As for the rivets, I ground them flat, used a wood chisel between receiver and plate to pop it loose, then grind flat again then use the chisel from the inside of the receiver to pop them out from the inside. Use a long socket on a bench to go inside the receiver to act as the "anvil" when you punch. Use a good punch and good bit for the weld. If I can ever get unburied at work and home projects, I'll finish my cook book post.

[nalioth 405]

As for the rivets, I ground them flat, used a wood chisel between receiver and plate to pop it loose, then grind flat again then use the chisel from the inside of the receiver to pop them out from the inside. Use a long socket on a bench to go inside the receiver to act as the "anvil" when you punch. Use a good punch and good bit for the weld. If I can ever get unburied at work and home projects, I'll finish my cook book post.

A little late for this application, but here I go again.

 

The use of a cold chisel will vastly reduce the stress and irritation of removing the rivets and pins. It's also a lot quicker.

 

You simply place the cold chisel edge at the junction of the rivet head and receiver and give it 2 or 3 really strong whacks with a sledge hammer. The rivet head will fly off, and you can simply knock them out at that point.

 

 

 

 

Wood chisels are not made for use with metal.

[thehopping1 105]

As for the rivets, I ground them flat, used a wood chisel between receiver and plate to pop it loose, then grind flat again then use the chisel from the inside of the receiver to pop them out from the inside. Use a long socket on a bench to go inside the receiver to act as the "anvil" when you punch. Use a good punch and good bit for the weld. If I can ever get unburied at work and home projects, I'll finish my cook book post.

A little late for this application, but here I go again.

 

The use of a cold chisel will vastly reduce the stress and irritation of removing the rivets and pins. It's also a lot quicker.

 

You simply place the cold chisel edge at the junction of the rivet head and receiver and give it 2 or 3 really strong whacks with a sledge hammer. The rivet head will fly off, and you can simply knock them out at that point.

 

 

 

 

Wood chisels are not made for use with metal.

 

What size cold chisel would you recommend? I'm guessing 3/8 or so, and some what sharp.

[chevymann 13]

The use of a cold chisel will vastly reduce the stress and irritation of removing the rivets and pins. It's also a lot quicker.

 

 

 

+1 for the cold chisel...

 

Much easier than drilling and punching.. Those spot welds can be impossible to drill through..

[nalioth 405]

What size cold chisel would you recommend? I'm guessing 3/8 or so, and some what sharp.

Anything wider than the rivets will do fine. As with all cutting tools, sharper is better.

 

You'll also want to use the largest single-handed sledge hammer you are comfortable with, otherwise, you're gonna have a "♬ ♫ I'm a'workin' on the railroad ♪ ♩" experience.

Edited September 25, 2009 by nalioth

[jimdigriz 580]

You simply place the cold chisel edge at the junction of the rivet head and receiver and give it 2 or 3 really strong whacks with a sledge hammer. The rivet head will fly off, and you can simply knock them out at that point.

 

The rivet head is the part on the inside of the receiver, or the outside?

 

Thanks.

[Dave 1]

You simply place the cold chisel edge at the junction of the rivet head and receiver and give it 2 or 3 really strong whacks with a sledge hammer. The rivet head will fly off, and you can simply knock them out at that point.

 

The rivet head is the part on the inside of the receiver, or the outside?

 

Thanks.

 

I don't have a saiga yet, but I think it's on the outside...If that is the case, doesn't the cold chisel scratch the receiver?

[nalioth 405]

You simply place the cold chisel edge at the junction of the rivet head and receiver and give it 2 or 3 really strong whacks with a sledge hammer. The rivet head will fly off, and you can simply knock them out at that point.

 

The rivet head is the part on the inside of the receiver, or the outside?

 

Thanks.

The part on the outside.

 

As I mentioned earlier, it's probably too late for you this go-round (as you've already ground yours off)

[Azrial 1,091]

Or, you can just Dremel the heads off from the inside of the receiver and then knock out the rivets with a punch!

[jimdigriz 580]

Well, the auto-center punch I got at Lowe's was useless. It just puts a tiny little nick in the trigger guard spot weld. I guess I'll have to take a hammer and a punch and hope I don't distort the receiver.

[jimdigriz 580]

Or, you can just Dremel the heads off from the inside of the receiver and then knock out the rivets with a punch!

 

Well, maybe I'll try that next, since nothing else is working. I borrowed a Dremel from my uncle, but nothing in the kit looks potent enough to do any damage to the rivet heads. What do I need? A little circular blade to attach to it? (Forgive my ignorance; I've never used a dremel before).

 

Thanks.

[GregM1 241]

with my dremel, i used one of the orange grinding bits to just grind it flat to the sporter plate, then knocked them right through. really easy.

[aresv 49]

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE HIGH QUALITY DRILL BITS.

 

+1

 

They don't have to be expensive though, as long as they're made right. Chinese junk from Harbor Freight will work fine as long as you get the right tool for the job. Don't get gold colored nitrided woodworking drill bits. Don't waste your money on high speed steel (HSS) drills either. Cobalt coated bits are great, but the "Cobalt" brand name is not necessarily the same thing.

 

Jim Digriz: if you grind your rivets off with a Dremel, use a stone.